2L-TE Question (Temp sensor/coolant drain plug)

[Pardy]

Hello everyone, My names David and I'm doing a bit of a re and re on my LJ78. (Its been sitting around for about a year now) I'm hoping the little 2L-TE lasts me at least another year and half until I'm done with university (fingers crossed), then I will have more money to replace the thing. Anyway here's my question:

Regarding the installation of an aftermarket water temperature sensor.

In reference to the image below:
1. As I understand this is a coolant drain plug. (1)
Can I relocate the factory water temperature sensor from the thermostat housing to the location of the coolant drain plug?
If so then i would like to put the aftermarket sensor in place of the factory one. If this is not possible then I will just remove the factory temp sensor and leave the drain plug alone.

Thanks

 

[cicak]

My aftermarket temp sensor is in a join which you put into the thermostat to radiator hose. Drain plug is too low and will give incorrect reading.

 

[cicak]

Been sitting is never good hope you have coolant in radiator else head gasket holes will close up with rust and the radiator full if gunk and that's the start of the issues

 

[Pardy]

Thanks for the reply cicak, so you're saying there isn't much point putting the temp sensor in the drain plug location because of the lack of flow. Makes sense... (doh)

Looks like I'll be getting one of these then.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Inline-Radia...ies&hash=item43babc7ddb&_uhb=1#ht_2378wt_1397

Thanks again for the input!

 

[Pardy]

Also, yes fortunately it was sitting full of coolant so hopefully the rusting over will not be an issue.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

You should check out this thread on preserving your 2lte: https://forum.ih8mud.com/diesel-tech-24-volts-systems/680759-ideas-improving-2lte.html Some good ideas in there that don't cost much to implement (good for student).

At the very least with the temp gauge you are installing and an EGT gauge you can drive safely and keep your head from cracking for the time being.

Personally I like my 2lte and will be keeping it instead of swapping, but I'm a minority.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

1. Block drain
2. Crank position sensor (or that's about the right location)
3. Temp sensor for computer (controls fueling, glow time, trans operation)
4. Starter main power connector

Either remove the factory sensor or drill and tap for a new one. There are small sensors available that can go in to a 1/8" NPT hole.


If you need help with parts call us.

Good luck with that thing, they can be real money pits.

~John

 

[Pardy]

Hey guys thanks for the reply.

I have been lurking on this thread for some time and have read just about every post you have made GTS.

So far i have done the following:

1. Removed the entire intake side, replaced all gaskets.
2. Removed the EGR system.
3. Removed the A/C system, (Later potential air to air intercooler similar to Pradocruzers design.
4.Installed pyro/ boost/ and soon to be water temp gauges.


I hope that was a good location for the pyro because its in there now!



5. Just finishing up welding a new exhaust. (Too poor to get a 3" dump pipe made so im just stick with the original and doing a 2.5" back from that.)

6. Installed manual hubs. (Thanks to RADD cruisers)

They look good and can't wait to try them!

I will also be rock guarding my vehicle (comparable deign to Yotaheads cruiser)

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Hey guys thanks for the reply.

I have been lurking on this thread for some time and have read just about every post you have made GTS.

So far i have done the following:

1. Removed the entire intake side, replaced all gaskets.
2. Removed the EGR system.
3. Removed the A/C system, (Later potential air to air intercooler similar to Pradocruzers design.
4.Installed pyro/ boost/ and soon to be water temp gauges.

I hope that was a good location for the pyro because its in there now!

5. Just finishing up welding a new exhaust. (Too poor to get a 3" dump pipe made so im just stick with the original and doing a 2.5" back from that.)

6. Installed manual hubs. (Thanks to RADD cruisers)
They look good and can't wait to try them!

I will also be rock guarding my vehicle (comparable deign to Yotaheads cruiser)

Nice work Pardy! Looking really good. Nice to have another enthusiast Prado owner in BC on the forums here. Definitely keep us posted on how things work out with your truck as you further modify it.

How do you like your new exhaust? I'm just in the process of doing the same as you right now and can't wait to see how it works out.

I'm going to attempt making a 3" dump pipe with the help of a good friend of mine who is a welder/machinist, I'll let you know how it works out and post pics in case you want to try fabricating your own too. I bought a flange off ebay for the CT20a. Probably only $60 in parts, so not too expensive.

Thats funny that you read my posts. I also read posts of other prado/surf owners on here and other forums to learn the tricks of these engines and chassis. I'm learning just like you. Pradocruzer and Prado t also have/had modified LJ78's that ran well. Also a guy from ATEB has a modified LJ78 that apparently is something to behold. It's too bad he doesn't post more about it.

Anyhow, good luck with your LJ78.

 

[monke south]

Pardy great work on your LJ78. There is so much to learn here on mud it can really give you the confidence to make mods. Keep going these are great cruisers, they just need some TLC

Chad Wells

 

[cicak]

My view and experience - gauges should be in front of your face. Having to look down means they outta sight and outta mind. Especially EGT - boost you can usually guess by the shove back in the seat. EGT should be the one you see first when looking also.

 

[Pardy]

Thanks guys,

Yeah i was thinking about the location of those gauges more and more and I might just move that pyro. Probably just to the right of the instrument panel. Though having this cruiser for a while now I've gotten good at checking gauges every 10 seconds while driving!

 

[Redd]

get the cooling system to a point where you trust it. i got rid of the viscous and installed a both puller and pusher electric fans, big ones, in front and behind the rad. I bought a temp switch that fitted in the thermostat housing, to switch them on at x degress.

to test it i headed for the steepest mountain i could find. it took a while but i eventually got it to a place where i stopped looking at the gauge every 20 seconds.

 

[Redd]

here is my 2lte workout plan. like kanyes workout plan song, but for a diesel, rather than a woman. forgive me im just waffling to be honest.

so:

part a. sort the cooling system
part b. sort the cooling system

1. get a thermostat that opens at a lower temperature. I cant remember right now what temp it opens at. if say, its an 88 degree one, (I think it is) buy one of those on ebay for peanuts, and then go to your local autoparts store and say, "I want a thremostat thats the same dimensions as this, but that opens 10 or 15 degrees lower".
as an added bonus an engine running at a lower temp will put out more power, but on the other hand its not as fuel efficient. In the case of the 2lte I'll take more power.

2. when you know what temp your thrmostat opens, the next thing to get is a switch that will turn on the radiator fans, a few degrees above the opening temp of your thermostat.

so, if your new thermostat open at 72 degrees C, your rad fan switch should engage the fans at 75 degrees C.
from what I remember this is to stop it interfering with the natural workings of the thermostat, otherwise it would be a confused cooling system.

3. buy some monsterous fans, for dirt cheap.
see here https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...-ford-taurus-fan-rather-than-ford-taurus.html
If you can get big nasty fans, remove the viscous fan completely. I never trusted my viscous fan, it wasnt predictable, and a 2lte cooling system needs to be predictable. plus you gain an extra hp or two by losing the parasitic drag.

then boom. you have a trustable cooling system you know and understand, for not very much cash
thermostat $15 max
switch $15 max
fans under 50 bux (50bux50bux, sorry, atari 2600 ad)

_____________________________________________________________________________

the switch is the one thing i found hard to sort. theres a fitting on the thermostat elbow thats redundant, its an ideal place to fit another switch, and indeed i did, but, its a stupid thread pattern. I have a thread about the thread here

http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11481&highlight=thread

and another one here, more info, but it goes nowhere

http://www.tlocuk.co.uk/forums/viewtopic.php?t=11328&highlight=switch

I eventually got it all done and that was a good day. the fans would kick in at the same place on the temp gauge every time, and it never went above that. I was pleased, and driving became a much less nerve wracking affair.

______________________________________________________________________________

as an aside, if the temp needle is too high, say after a climb, the best thing you can do is stop the car, switch the fans on, and hold the revs at about 2500rpm, until the gauge starts to go down. this lets the water pump circulate the coolant to the radiator, where the fans will cool it.

 

[Pardy]

So Redd, so what your saying is... sort the cooling system! Gotcha!

I really like the idea of those big fans. I will be on the lookout for some in the near future. I will definitely get the lower temp thermostat right away though.

But first I have a an issues i need to sort first.

The gasket on the thermostat housing (engine side) is leaking. I'm having a bugger of a time getting it off to replace it. Should it just pull strait off?


Thanks again everyone for this awesome info!!

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

So Redd, so what your saying is... sort the cooling system! Gotcha!

I really like the idea of those big fans. I will be on the lookout for some in the near future. I will definitely get the lower temp thermostat right away though.

But first I have a an issues i need to sort first.

The gasket on the thermostat housing (engine side) is leaking. I'm having a bugger of a time getting it off to replace it. Should it just pull strait off?
View attachment 749509

Thanks again everyone for this awesome info!!

Redd has some great ideas in his post with regard to improving the cooling system, but I highly recommend also doing everything you can to prevent the heat in the first place. The heat is directly related to EGT's. Keep the EGT's down, and the water temps will also stay down (assuming your cooling system is functioning at least normally).

The side of the thermostat housing with the rad cap and hose that goes to the radiator is the part that comes off. Take out the rad cap and give the housing a gentle wack with a rubber mallet. It should break the seal and then come apart easy.

 

[Pardy]

Hey GTS,

Unfortunately it is leaking on the side that should not be removable.... I think?



Just above my finger, in between the block and the non removable side of the thermostat housing.

 

[Pardy]

I think I've got everything sorted.

Found this link with tonnes of useful info in it about the 2L-TE!!!

http://www.westcoastcruisers.com.au/forums/topic/1084-rebuilding-a-2l-te-engine-toyota-surf-ln130/

 

[Redd]

jezus, thats a gammy place to get a leak. did you get it sorted? where you have a pipe coming outta that housing i had a switch.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Glad you got it sorted. I had a problem before with the small hoses below the housing leaking.