2L-TE Hilux issues after new radiator and waterless coolant. Dead Head?

[BigNJpn]

My beloved 1996 Hilux LN112 continues to be a labor of love. In the interest of avoiding head issues, I put in a 3 row radiator, new hoses, 10 blade fan and swapped to waterless coolant.

After purging, draining and vacuuming out all the coolant, I loaded up with Evans Waterless and let it run for 30 min with no issues.

Drove 5 min down the road for gas and check engine light comes on. Speed home to find head cover smoking from around where most bolts are.

Shutoff, let cool emptied coolant and tested. No water content. Reloaded and let run with no issues.

Restart later to the telltale thick white smoke from exhaust and steam/smoke coming from.the overflow reservoir, but nothing from top of engine.

I welcome to any tips, thoughts on a next steps or Fs in the chat

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Sounds like you may have had air in the system. Smoke from the head cover may have been some paint or grease on there burning off, but it would have to be very hot to do that.

Combustion vapours from the coolant overflow unfortunately sounds like a cracked head.

To make sure the coolant system is filled correctly, try to park the vehicle on an incline, run the heater wide open with the radiator cap off and keep refilling as the coolant level drops. Are you sure the thermostat and water pump are good?

 

[duncanrm]

Crushing that your good intentions have brought you to this I dont see much prospect of good news on the horizon for you, that head is almost certainly cooked.

Like you I also learnt the hard way that refilling coolant from empty is something that needs to be dealt with very thoroughly and carefully.

 

[BigNJpn]

I appreciate the replies, it's all but confirmed that it was indeed air trapped in the system, as I somehow researched everything exceeding carefully, but didn't come across the elevated vehicle/high heat open cap system. Whomp whomp!

Anyone know the best place to get a reasonably priced head?

 

[duncanrm]

I appreciate the replies, it's all but confirmed that it was indeed air trapped in the system, as I somehow researched everything exceeding carefully, but didn't come across the elevated vehicle/high heat open cap system. Whomp whomp!

Anyone know the best place to get a reasonably priced head?

Unsure on your neck of the woods.. readily available in Australia.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

2L-T heads are no longer made, but you can use other L Series heads. For benchmarking costs, here are what they cost in the UAE (major hub for global parts supply):

2L head (not recommended for a turbo): https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=11101-54111
USD 1075

3L head (with better cooling - I have run a 2L with a 3L head so no compatibility issues): https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=11101-54131
USD 1282

5L head (I believe they will work with a 2L-T, but the valves are larger so I can't be 100% sure): https://partsouq.com/en/search/all?q=11101-54150
USD 1170
From Japan: Toyota 11101-54150 (1110154150) HEAD SUB-ASSY, CYLINDER - https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/1110154150
USD 737

There are cheaper Made in China heads out there - maybe a good option if you find a reputable vendor in North America that sells them. but I can't help you on that.

 

[BigNJpn]

Again, I appreciate the replies. My obsessive searching has led me to this part number:

11101-54121

As the upgraded 2L-TE head that's recommended even above the 3L options.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Again, I appreciate the replies. My obsessive searching has led me to this part number:

11101-54121

As the upgraded 2L-TE head that's recommended even above the 3L options.

That part is no longer in production.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Sorry to hear. Just so you're clear though, it's many cycles of heat that will crack the heads usually. It doesn't happen in one drive as long as you have at least a decent amount of coolant in the motor. Nearly all these 2lte vehicles have heads already damaged before setting foot in north america. Pretty much need to budget it in unless there is recent record of it being done. Also, all the available OEM heads are improved over the originals and will last much longer.

 

[BigNJpn]

I appreciate everyone's efforts and comforting words! I have an OEM head on the way and gasket kit and bolts, so hopefully I'll be back on the road soon.

I would welcome any best practices or tips for the swap, thought I'll likely be taking it to a mechanic. Do I need to worry about getting the head machined if its OEM? Welcome any and all idiot proofing.

Also, I've learned the hard way that refilling coolant from empty is a risky proposition. What should I do about ensuring it doesn't happen again?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I appreciate everyone's efforts and comforting words! I have an OEM head on the way and gasket kit and bolts, so hopefully I'll be back on the road soon.

I would welcome any best practices or tips for the swap, thought I'll likely be taking it to a mechanic. Do I need to worry about getting the head machined if its OEM? Welcome any and all idiot proofing.

Also, I've learned the hard way that refilling coolant from empty is a risky proposition. What should I do about ensuring it doesn't happen again?

FYI: that's not an OEM Toyota head I don't think. Looks like offshore copy. There has been mixed reviews and even horror stories about these (like cam lobes wearing completely off etc.). Although some are noted as working okay. Depends on the manufacturer. Personally, I'd put out for a actual Toyota manufacture head so I did not have to question how long my engine was going to last.

The Toyota head comes without valve train. So the biggest pain is transferring valve train from old head to new. You'll need new cam bearings, and a machine shop to do this for you. You will need either new shims to set valve clearance, or a capable machine shop that can swap shims around and grind valve stems to get it right (that's what I had done on mine).

No, you don't need to have a new head surfaced.

Make sure you are getting the thickest head gasket, or going through method of measuring piston protrusion etc. (other wise pistons kiss valves and take out BEB).

When you do this work, follow the Toyota service manual religiously. Don't rush, keep things very clean, do a good job.

Oh, and you should do water pump and timing belt, tensioner at the same time.

When it's all together turn the motor with a wrench a few times before putting timing belt covers on. Because there's a good chance the injection pump will have stepped back a tooth. You don't want to go back into this after that.

Oh, get all new accessory drive belts too. This work is such a PITA you may as well do everything while you're in there.

You can expect to find damaged cylinder walls from the coolant that may have sat in the engine. But if your engine started easy without smoke before, and you didn't loose oil, it's probably okay.

 

[GreenPump]

I have a theory as to what happened here.

I was considering going to waterless coolant earlier this year, and I called Evans and spoke to one of their sales folks at length. The surface tension of Evans is very different from that of water (or in the case of standard coolant, a mix of water, ethelyne glycol, and other additives). I was cautioned by the sales rep that Evans tends to leak through much smaller cracks and crevices than standard coolant, due to its lower surface tension.

If I had to bet on your situation, my guess is that your head already had hairline cracks, but the standard water-based coolant was not migrating out of the cracks at an appreciable rate. When you switched to Evans, the waterless coolant easily found its way through the cracks and you began to experience the symptoms of a cracked head.

This conversation with the folks at Evans was the reason I stuck with the standard Toyota red coolant after my rebuild. I did however go to the moshimoto 3-row aluminum radiator and 10-blade fan.

 

[BigNJpn]

FYI: that's not an OEM Toyota head I don't think. Looks like offshore copy. There has been mixed reviews and even horror stories about these (like cam lobes wearing completely off etc.). Although some are noted as working okay. Depends on the manufacturer. Personally, I'd put out for a actual Toyota manufacture head so I did not have to question how long my engine was going to last.

The Toyota head comes without valve train. So the biggest pain is transferring valve train from old head to new. You'll need new cam bearings, and a machine shop to do this for you. You will need either new shims to set valve clearance, or a capable machine shop that can swap shims around and grind valve stems to get it right (that's what I had done on mine).

No, you don't need to have a new head surfaced.

Make sure you are getting the thickest head gasket or going through method of measuring piston protrusion etc. (otherwise pistons kiss valves and take out BEB).

When you do this work, follow the Toyota service manual religiously. Don't rush, keep things very clean, do a good job.

Oh, and you should do water pump and timing belt, tensioner at the same time.

When it's all together turn the motor with a wrench a few times before putting timing belt covers on. Because there's a good chance the injection pump will have stepped back a tooth. You don't want to go back into this after that.

Oh, get all new accessory drive belts too. This work is such a PITA you may as well do everything while you're in there.

You can expect to find damaged cylinder walls from the coolant that may have sat in the engine. But if your engine started easy without smoke before, and you didn't loose oil, it's probably okay.

I gave 'em a ring and it seems to be a Japanese manufactured head and were adamant about build and quality, so I guess we'll see! Fortunately, this is a Complete Cylinder Head with Valves, so it doesn't seem like a machine shop is in my future, thought I have an awesome one specializing in heads right down the street that I'm going to have take a look.

 

[BigNJpn]

I have a theory as to what happened here.

I was considering going to waterless coolant earlier this year, and I called Evans and spoke to one of their sales folks at length. The surface tension of Evans is very different from that of water (or in the case of standard coolant, a mix of water, ethelyne glycol, and other additives). I was cautioned by the sales rep that Evans tends to leak through much smaller cracks and crevices than standard coolant, due to its lower surface tension.

If I had to bet on your situation, my guess is that your head already had hairline cracks, but the standard water-based coolant was not migrating out of the cracks at an appreciable rate. When you switched to Evans, the waterless coolant easily found its way through the cracks and you began to experience the symptoms of a cracked head.

This conversation with the folks at Evans was the reason I stuck with the standard Toyota red coolant after my rebuild. I did however go to the moshimoto 3-row aluminum radiator and 10-blade fan.

Thank you for this take, I also had done similar research and thought that maybe a new radiator, hoses, caps etc. resulted in a tighter system and that the ethylene glycol easily wiggled into some hairline cracks.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I gave 'em a ring and it seems to be a Japanese manufactured head and were adamant about build and quality, so I guess we'll see! Fortunately, this is a Complete Cylinder Head with Valves, so it doesn't seem like a machine shop is in my future, thought I have an awesome one specializing in heads right down the street that I'm going to have take a look.

I've never heard of a Japanese manufacturer of these; let me know if it is. But my feeling is it's Chinese.

There is a local company here that has found a reliable source in Taiwan for these head's and claims they're pretty good.

 

[BigNJpn]

I've never heard of a Japanese manufacturer of these; let me know if it is. But my feeling is it's Chinese.

There is a local company here that has found a reliable source in Taiwan for these head's and claims they're pretty good.

Cruiser Parts also sells a Japanese sourced head.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Cruiser Parts also sells a Japanese sourced head.

That's from Toyota though (that's what box underneath it says)? I guess I meant a non-Toyota Japan made head.....

 

[Mike NXP]

Again, I appreciate the replies. My obsessive searching has led me to this part number:

11101-54121

As the upgraded 2L-TE head that's recommended even above the 3L options.

** I now see you have already ordered something but I did a quick search of the part number your supplied


Amayama shows 8 of this part number available

Toyota 11101-54121 (1110154121) HEAD SUB-ASSY, CYLINDER

Toyota 11101-54121 (1110154121) HEAD SUB-ASSY, CYLINDER. New & genuine Japanese car parts. Fast shipping. Low prices. Request a quote from Amayama Trading Co. online.

www.amayama.com

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

The aftermarket heads will give the Toyota part number they are equivalent to; but it doesn't mean they're made by Toyota.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

I gave 'em a ring and it seems to be a Japanese manufactured head and were adamant about build and quality, so I guess we'll see! Fortunately, this is a Complete Cylinder Head with Valves, so it doesn't seem like a machine shop is in my future, thought I have an awesome one specializing in heads right down the street that I'm going to have take a look.

This is an inferior part made in China, 100 %. Friday parts is a Hong Kong company. Where do you think they get their parts from? I'll give you a clue: What country has Hong Kong been part of since 1997? Ask them what this manufacturer is in Japan, that makes them. I too have never heard of any Japanese aftermarket manufacturer of heads.

Due dilligence of scrolling to the bottom of the webpage would have saved you hundreds of dollars.

How to otherwise tell? As @GTSSportCoupe has said, OEM heads never come fully built up. The pictured head (which has been cut from another photo - another alarm bell ringing) - has not only the valve train, but also glow plugs, engine hanger brackets and even the stud bolts for the valve cover nuts. Do you think a Japanese manufacturer would be making aftermarket enging hanger brackets? No, because there is zero demand for that.

You can read on this site plenty of woeful reviews about Cruiserparts. I have ordered from them several times, usually when they appear to have a genuine part that is no longer in production. Their stock database is total fantasy, and they are amazingly incompetent (though friendly to deal with and responsive to messages). That looks like a genuine head in their pictures, but I'd give it a 20 % chance that they actually have it in stock.

Same argument with the gasket/bolt kit. if it's not OEM it's almost certainly inferior quality. It says it's made by 'Cruiserparts LLC' I wouldn't trust those guys to make a sandwich, and there's no way they are making head bolts. You can be pretty sure that stuff will be coming from Asia - China, Indonesia, or if you are lucky, Taiwan. It might not matter for certain engine gaskets (until they fail and you have to half dismantle your engine to replace that Indonesian gasket which saved you three dollars). But never use anything other than a genuine head gasket.

I sent you links to reputable OEM suppliers, not just as a recommendation to buy from them, but for price benchmarking. But you've fallen for a Chinese seller who claims to give you more for half the price. and is clearly based in China.

At the end of the day, it might work fine, or you might be back to square one in a few months. It's your call, just don't be under any illusions that this is even close to OEM quality. No way I would run a Chinese camshaft.