- Thread starter
- #21
So now, I'm going to extend the glow plug wires into the cab of the truck and put a big ass switch under the dash, so if the glow plugs go into runaway again, I can shut them down within Coldtaco's 8 seconds ...
2H Superglow Glow plug problem -6 good plugs yesterday- 6 burned out today-1 melted! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Freewheel
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That’s a heck of a story, I am still laughing. I can imagine people wondering what is wrong with you with all that smoke coming out of the engine. That’s thinking out of the box. Glad it worked.
Removing the fuel lines isn’t a big deal to purge after you get it all back together. Just use the primer pump works good.
I use 10.5v in my 12v system and glow for 10 seconds. If you used he 20v I'd do the same or you could use the 14v and go for 5 sec? I always glowed mine a couple seconds after starting intermittently to keep it running smoothly.
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- #25
Running #4 welding cable from the Superglow bus bar connector to a 40 amp switch under the dash and back to the busbar.
asked when I'd be coming to bed. I said in an hour.
She said Ok see you in 3.
I hope 40 amps is enough. I guess I'll find out in about 2 3/4 hours.
asked when I'd be coming to bed. I said in an hour. She said Ok see you in 3.
I hope 40 amps is enough. I guess I'll find out in about 2 3/4 hours.
I must have been lucky when I replaced my 30 year old glow plugs this summer. Not one broke .I had one that was defect but it was only noticible with occasional cold starts.
Guess they have been spared a hard life because I have a Eperspächer engine heater.
If that would be of any influence on the lifetime of a glowplug ????
Guess they have been spared a hard life because I have a Eperspächer engine heater.
If that would be of any influence on the lifetime of a glowplug ????
- Thread starter
- #27
I think an engine heater would definitely increase the lifespan of a glow plug. The water temperature sensors in the glow system control the glow time. If the truck is already warm- less glow time- longer plug life.
I use a 10ga wire from batt to momentary to bus bar. I've used the same system on multiple trucks for 25yrs.
hj 60
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I have new ones for about 7 years an 100k, in the freezing cold it seems one is about to fail (huge impact on starting)
But that is just a change from -18 degrees immediately start (same as in summer) to slightly more shiver in the engine that is fine after 5 seconds.
But I think I will not try to find/test which one is bad and replace them all.
But that is just a change from -18 degrees immediately start (same as in summer) to slightly more shiver in the engine that is fine after 5 seconds.
But I think I will not try to find/test which one is bad and replace them all.
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- #30
Yes, I think its a good idea to replace them all when one fails. Then you have some spares when your pre timer flakes out and kills all your nicely matched year-old plugs....
Installed the emergency glow shut-off switch last night and its working perfectly. And the resoldering of the pre-timer circuit board seems to have worked as well. Superglow is back in operation.
Installed the emergency glow shut-off switch last night and its working perfectly. And the resoldering of the pre-timer circuit board seems to have worked as well. Superglow is back in operation.
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- #31
So Gerg, you don't use a relay for your glow?
Do you ever burn out your pushbutton?
Do you ever burn out your pushbutton?
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- #32
I've once again avoided the Wilson switch... The resoldered/reflowed pre-heat timer seems to be working perfectly (knock on wood) and if it ever doesn't, I have my busbar voltage safety alarm and meter AND an instant shut off switch if anything goes awry.
Maybe one day for a Wilson switch, but when it works, the Superglow really works well, and it's a lot friendlier for temporary drivers...
Maybe one day for a Wilson switch, but when it works, the Superglow really works well, and it's a lot friendlier for temporary drivers...
No relay. It's a 20 or 30 amp momentary or something like that. It's crazy simple.
- Thread starter
- #34
Update for those on the endless quest to understand the Superglow system.
Yesterday, the alarm and voltage meter that I installed on my busbar kept going after the truck started- meaning that the glow plugs were not shutting off and were stuck on full power as I was driving. I hit the emergency glow disconnect switch (that I installed last year) and cut power to the plugs.
While driving, I cycled the glow power disconnect a few times for a couple seconds, and each time, the glows were still at full power.
Got to my destination and let the truck idle, and tried the disconnect switch a few times more- same result, with the plugs at full power.
Got out of the truck and used my steering wheel club to give the main glow relay a whack, figuring that was the easiest thing to check out- checking the glow timer would require a multimeter. Turned the disconnect switch back on and found the glow plugs were no longer being powered...
So now the working hypothesis is that the main glow plug relay has gotten a bit sticky and has been the culprit for burning out all my plugs a couple times in the last few years. Not sure if its repairable, it seems pretty well sealed. I'll have to check and see whether it's still available- I think I'd rather have a toyota relay with the proper waterproof connectors than splicing in some generic relay, but we'll see what an inspection of the existing unit and a parts search turns up...
(and on that note, Gerg, could be best that you kept your Wilson switch simple, without even a relay to fail)
Yesterday, the alarm and voltage meter that I installed on my busbar kept going after the truck started- meaning that the glow plugs were not shutting off and were stuck on full power as I was driving. I hit the emergency glow disconnect switch (that I installed last year) and cut power to the plugs.
While driving, I cycled the glow power disconnect a few times for a couple seconds, and each time, the glows were still at full power.
Got to my destination and let the truck idle, and tried the disconnect switch a few times more- same result, with the plugs at full power.
Got out of the truck and used my steering wheel club to give the main glow relay a whack, figuring that was the easiest thing to check out- checking the glow timer would require a multimeter. Turned the disconnect switch back on and found the glow plugs were no longer being powered...
So now the working hypothesis is that the main glow plug relay has gotten a bit sticky and has been the culprit for burning out all my plugs a couple times in the last few years. Not sure if its repairable, it seems pretty well sealed. I'll have to check and see whether it's still available- I think I'd rather have a toyota relay with the proper waterproof connectors than splicing in some generic relay, but we'll see what an inspection of the existing unit and a parts search turns up...
(and on that note, Gerg, could be best that you kept your Wilson switch simple, without even a relay to fail)
So I know that frustrating feeling and the thought in the back of your mind that it can happen again at any time.....I might be biased to simple electronics because electrical stuff is my weakness but seems it will make life alot less complicated for ya.
On the other hand.....solving complicated problems and providing a easy to plug in solution is a great buisness opertunity!
g
On the other hand.....solving complicated problems and providing a easy to plug in solution is a great buisness opertunity!
g
hj 60
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Do you have a picture of the broken glowplug remains, the thread was not damaged when it was forced out?
Because I would like to immediately know/see if it happens to my engine.
The old black soot powder on the plug needs to be removed by turning and pulling the glowplug a few times so that is not possible when it melts, maybe use seafoam stuff first or if diesel was getting out it cleared the soot after some driving?
Sticky relay is know from winches, lets see how it looks inside if you continue to open it up.
relay probably looks like warn winch relay:
Because I would like to immediately know/see if it happens to my engine.
The old black soot powder on the plug needs to be removed by turning and pulling the glowplug a few times so that is not possible when it melts, maybe use seafoam stuff first or if diesel was getting out it cleared the soot after some driving?
Sticky relay is know from winches, lets see how it looks inside if you continue to open it up.
relay probably looks like warn winch relay:
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- #37
The glow plug broke at the spot where the electrode connects to the wider metal section, leaving the whole electrode stuck in the hole. I never found the electrode piece after I blew it out- I had a good look for it on the road, but couldn't find it. The threads in the hole were absolutely fine, not damaged at all.
I know what you mean about the carbon/soot build-up and how that can make it hard to get the plugs out, and I've also had to ease them out by turning them back and forth.
The one that broke though, melted right off. Another one had started to melt as well and was a bit deformed, and hard to get out of the hole, but eventually came out. Picture of both the deformed one and the broken one below
I know what you mean about the carbon/soot build-up and how that can make it hard to get the plugs out, and I've also had to ease them out by turning them back and forth.
The one that broke though, melted right off. Another one had started to melt as well and was a bit deformed, and hard to get out of the hole, but eventually came out. Picture of both the deformed one and the broken one below
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- #38
I haven't been able to get the relay open- though think the way the studs work is probably similar to the Warn relay in your photo above. My relay has been working fine since I wiggled the power studs and then left the nuts a bit loose. I didn't want to pound on it too much, especially after it started working again. I did hit it hard enough that if it's a simple press fit, it should have come apart- I'm really not sure how it's held together.
Thread revival - I have an '84 BJ60 and I'm also dealing with constant voltage at the busbar. Just replaced the secondary relaying thinking it was the culprit as I get a constant 5V but that didn't solve it, but reading this thread has got me thinking its been the main all along. Have you had anymore issues or had to replace your main relay? I'm about to go give my main relay a good wack and a little wiggle
Wilson switch. Far less failure points. Or get a deep frier propane burner to boil water.
