I was surprised how easy it was to get a good seal at 1600psi from the el cheapo pop tester. Brand new olive snugs into the injector opening no worries. Does not require much torque at all.
It is a good design, steel on steel seal, would last several lifetimes if not left to rust and as long as they are not over tightened. Do not take them more than 27ftpounds, you may split that olive. Crowsfoot is the best not to bur the ferrule nuts.
Old used lines like this collection are valuable to me as wreckers sell a set for $150aud dirty and unknown condition, not including the return line. You can't get new 2h toyota oem hard lines, discontinued. Making new lines would have to be exactly the same length to match the pumps calibration, very difficult job in my eyes.
The olive has to be spotless, testament to a diesel mechanics ability to work cleanly, more important than any other type of mechanic. Not like this olive end.
Some used line olive ends have torque scars demonstrating a history of over tightening. It can be lapped smooth again, but it would be better to remove from the vehicle for that.
If not too badly scarred, I found a light rub with red scotchbrite can smooth it back, then wipe away any rubbing debris with a clean clothe. The slightest spec of dirt or minute scar can cause a leak. (cover those open injectors with the little hats whilst doing this. If the injectors are well serviced , they are spotless.)
When tightening, it can be intuitive to tighten it some more if a minute leak is still there. Don't!
If your olive is smooth and you still have a leak, release the ferrule nut whilst the engine is running, let the running diesel flush the joint, spin the opposite way then re-tighten to snug. 27ftpounds.
I am looking into re-plating my spare lines with yellow zinc. The local mob recommends wire wheel or hydro blasting before bringing them in.
I think my local diesel mechanic is walnut husk blasting injector housings, they came back a satin finish, he is keeping his cards close to his chest.
$15 per line for the pro electroplaters to plate it. I have played with some diy zinc plating but some equipment and investment is necessary to do a good even plating coating job.
It is a good design, steel on steel seal, would last several lifetimes if not left to rust and as long as they are not over tightened. Do not take them more than 27ftpounds, you may split that olive. Crowsfoot is the best not to bur the ferrule nuts.
Old used lines like this collection are valuable to me as wreckers sell a set for $150aud dirty and unknown condition, not including the return line. You can't get new 2h toyota oem hard lines, discontinued. Making new lines would have to be exactly the same length to match the pumps calibration, very difficult job in my eyes.
The olive has to be spotless, testament to a diesel mechanics ability to work cleanly, more important than any other type of mechanic. Not like this olive end.
Some used line olive ends have torque scars demonstrating a history of over tightening. It can be lapped smooth again, but it would be better to remove from the vehicle for that.
If not too badly scarred, I found a light rub with red scotchbrite can smooth it back, then wipe away any rubbing debris with a clean clothe. The slightest spec of dirt or minute scar can cause a leak. (cover those open injectors with the little hats whilst doing this. If the injectors are well serviced , they are spotless.)
When tightening, it can be intuitive to tighten it some more if a minute leak is still there. Don't!
If your olive is smooth and you still have a leak, release the ferrule nut whilst the engine is running, let the running diesel flush the joint, spin the opposite way then re-tighten to snug. 27ftpounds.
I am looking into re-plating my spare lines with yellow zinc. The local mob recommends wire wheel or hydro blasting before bringing them in.
I think my local diesel mechanic is walnut husk blasting injector housings, they came back a satin finish, he is keeping his cards close to his chest.
$15 per line for the pro electroplaters to plate it. I have played with some diy zinc plating but some equipment and investment is necessary to do a good even plating coating job.