2h injector hard lines

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Mar 10, 2019
melbourne, Oz
I was surprised how easy it was to get a good seal at 1600psi from the el cheapo pop tester. Brand new olive snugs into the injector opening no worries. Does not require much torque at all.

It is a good design, steel on steel seal, would last several lifetimes if not left to rust and as long as they are not over tightened. Do not take them more than 27ftpounds, you may split that olive. Crowsfoot is the best not to bur the ferrule nuts.

Old used lines like this collection are valuable to me as wreckers sell a set for $150aud dirty and unknown condition, not including the return line. You can't get new 2h toyota oem hard lines, discontinued. Making new lines would have to be exactly the same length to match the pumps calibration, very difficult job in my eyes.

The olive has to be spotless, testament to a diesel mechanics ability to work cleanly, more important than any other type of mechanic. Not like this olive end.

Some used line olive ends have torque scars demonstrating a history of over tightening. It can be lapped smooth again, but it would be better to remove from the vehicle for that.
If not too badly scarred, I found a light rub with red scotchbrite can smooth it back, then wipe away any rubbing debris with a clean clothe. The slightest spec of dirt or minute scar can cause a leak. (cover those open injectors with the little hats whilst doing this. If the injectors are well serviced , they are spotless.)
When tightening, it can be intuitive to tighten it some more if a minute leak is still there. Don't!
If your olive is smooth and you still have a leak, release the ferrule nut whilst the engine is running, let the running diesel flush the joint, spin the opposite way then re-tighten to snug. 27ftpounds.

I am looking into re-plating my spare lines with yellow zinc. The local mob recommends wire wheel or hydro blasting before bringing them in.
I think my local diesel mechanic is walnut husk blasting injector housings, they came back a satin finish, he is keeping his cards close to his chest.
$15 per line for the pro electroplaters to plate it. I have played with some diy zinc plating but some equipment and investment is necessary to do a good even plating coating job.
So did you buy new olives? You state above “new”
It can be lapped smooth again, but it would be better to remove from the vehicle for that.

Great post.. thanks.

How would one go about lapping an olive that wont seal?
sorry, bad writing, the new olive is on the el cheapo pop tester, first picture. For anyone with a tojo in which new hard lines are discontinued, it is a nice new experience to squeeze an injector onto a new olive, never felt that before! good lesson on how it 'should' feel.

there is a mob who sell all the stuff to make hard lines and olive ends probably should just call them nipples, bucks..look after the ones you have.

I have not lapped an olive, nipple. It would be, 'carefully, slowly', you want to keep the shape snug. I have lapped all sort of ceramic surfaces before with emery, aluminium, diamond grits..ceramic is much harder than steel.
Probably within a 'little cup' a similar size to the injector opening, maybe the top half of an old injector housing with a trashed thread from over tightening is a good female form for the olive to work against. With a hard surface female close fitting form, I would go for an oily compound grit around 800-1200 mesh to start with, go very easy first. Needless to say give the fuel line a super clean out after. I am only guessing, I am not a pro trained expert.

I observe my local diesel mechanic, he is meticulous, fastidious with very sharp eyes. He has a 'joke' sign, Labour $40 phour, if you watch $60phour,if you did the work your bloody self $120phour. He has seen every possible amateur stuff up.

I was very happy with the result from red scotchbrite. From memory it is around 240-320 grit equivalent. You don't want any scars on the olive. I would persevere on a scarred olive end with the scotchbrite as it has a conforming surface rather than a flat surface such as a lapping plate or emery paper. The edges and shoulders of the olive above and below, would ideally be kept crisp and defined to shoulder against the ferrule nut and injector opening.

A landcruiser 'sst' coop would be ideal in each major city!. Pop testers, front knuckle bearing preload tool, pulling tools, quality compression, leak down testers..fuel line bender and olive/nipple press.

If you pop tested sets of injectors 3 times a year and happy to pay bosch to re-calibrate every 2nd year, buy calibration fluid and the 20 sizes of shims it would be worth it. New Denso nozzles are pretty good value for what they are and do.

Either that or share with mates (however, each different person 'cares and appreciates' tools differently for sure) or make it a 'business'..I notice hydroblaster businesses popping up. If you are that way inclined.

A returned dirty trashed gummed up pop tester would be simply depressing to deal with.
Oh and I should have also added that those hose clamps which stabilize the hard lines are very important, they are not to be underestimated. Once the lines are set and no leaks ,clamp them in place. As we know diesels rattle and vibrate. The clamps minimise the hard line vibrations. Eventually your olive ends shall get damaged if not clamped, 27fpounds is not going to hold them alone over 100000kms. The more clamps the better.

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