2h hj60 cooling issue. (2 Viewers)

[jas]

hey all,
So the 60 has been getting hot quick going up hills etc,so i took out thermostat and tried that,got hotter quicker i believe.
Did a flush through heater hose,unplugged block water outlet,lots of black ish water but after 5minutes of flush all clear and fine,filled back up with water/not coolant yet.
back on the road and still getting hot after 5+minutes.
i cannot see any water coming out of weep hole atm of pump?
hoping water pump.
hoping not HG...
appreciate and thoughts
Jas.

 

[duncanrm]

If you're not pushing coolant out of the overflow bottle, and you're not losing coolant there's a 0% chance its your head or head gasket.

As with all old vehicles when cooling system issues arise its often best just to do a complete rebuild of the cooling system and an aggressive block flush. You should include:

• New water pump
• New bypass hose
• New radiator hoses (with new hose clips, unless they've been replaced in the past few years)
• New OEM Thermostat (85deg)
• Radiator refurbishment or replace (it has to be rodded out as a minimum)
• New Viscous Fan Coupling (this is often the cause of issues, and usually overlooked)
• New water pump/alternator belt (unless its been replaced in living memory)

HJ60s (even with A/C) are very good at keeping cool when the components are all in good working order.. all bets are off if you're running a turbo. If you're not running a radiator shroud do you best to find one to fit - essential.

Include both heater cores when flushing (front and back).. vast quantities of tap water required and some runs in between - leave the old components in place until you've flushed it well.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Did you change factory fueling setting any?

 

[jas]

Did you change factory fueling setting any?

no,

 

[jas]

If you're not pushing coolant out of the overflow bottle, and you're not losing coolant there's a 0% chance its your head or head gasket.

As with all old vehicles when cooling system issues arise its often best just to do a complete rebuild of the cooling system and an aggressive block flush. You should include:

• New water pump
• New bypass hose
• New radiator hoses (with new hose clips, unless they've been replaced in the past few years)
• New OEM Thermostat (85deg)
• Radiator refurbishment or replace (it has to be rodded out as a minimum)
• New Viscous Fan Coupling (this is often the cause of issues, and usually overlooked)
• New water pump/alternator belt (unless its been replaced in living memory)

HJ60s (even with A/C) are very good at keeping cool when the components are all in good working order.. all bets are off if you're running a turbo. If you're not running a radiator shroud do you best to find one to fit - essential.

Include both heater cores when flushing (front and back).. vast quantities of tap water required and some runs in between - leave the old components in place until you've flushed it well.

thank you,appreciate your time.and it has a turbo...
i havent a shroud atm,looking last week,but it just seems off getting so hot so quick all of a sudden.

 

[duncanrm]

thank you,appreciate your time.and it has a turbo...
i havent a shroud atm,looking last week,but it just seems off getting so hot so quick all of a sudden.

Is the turbo water cooled? Pointless if it is, as it just unnecessarily pushes hot water into the system with not much benefit.

Good luck with the shroud search - don't muck about - the biggest killer of 2H engines is cooling system issues that are left to fester.

 

[jas]

I mite just take the water pump out and have a peek.
after market only 40clams so not too bad.
get that done regardless.
hopefully thats it.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

turbo… little detail

 

[jas]

turbo… little detail

sry mate,i legit didnt think that would affect cooling,and dont know anything about turbo`s tbh.

 

[dmjay]

If you have a 2H with a turbo and no fan shroud then you have just found the source of the overheating.

 

[jas]

If you have a 2H with a turbo and no fan shroud then you have just found the source of the overheating.

nah,its been fine without for years.but thanks for reply.

 

[Gimme a 60]

If you have a 2H with a turbo and no fan shroud then you have just found the source of the overheating.

^^

 

[Honka]

My 2H with (water cooled) turbo is definitely audible/noticeable when the viscous coupling kicks in. If you're working things hard then you will easily get the gauge sitting midrange, and if working it hard for a while then it will creep higher on hot days. Sometimes the A/C needs to go off on really bad days.
I'm with the shroud back on, and check the fan noise levels after doing so.
And I like water cooled turbos......seen too many cooked ones in the old days in outback Aus that simply relied on oil.

 

[jas]

My 2H with (water cooled) turbo is definitely audible/noticeable when the viscous coupling kicks in. If you're working things hard then you will easily get the gauge sitting midrange, and if working it hard for a while then it will creep higher on hot days. Sometimes the A/C needs to go off on really bad days.
I'm with the shroud back on, and check the fan noise levels after doing so.
And I like water cooled turbos......seen too many cooked ones in the old days in outback Aus that simply relied on oil.

thanks mate,getting there slowly.parts are incoming.

 

[jas]

so a bit of waiting for parts etc,
so put in new.
water pump
thermostat
water temperature sender

and its worse,
couple things changed,it gets to 3 1/4 hot on idle now when it didn`t before,

the pic is from a drive down the road and back,say 8 km`s.
driving at 60 to 80 kph.
I am about to order a new after market viscous fan,even thought the one on there seems ok but yeh.
Went into mechanic today and asked if they can do the head gasket/head check with that tool,so that is next i guess.
until next update.

 

[AussieHJCruza]

Never found a turbo 2H that doesn't struggle to keep cool.

 

[jas]

Never found a turbo 2H that doesn't struggle to keep cool.

for the 15 years i have had it,it has never gone over 1/4 on the temp gauge.only when viscous went etc.
So to me it seems something else.

 

[sodafeld1]

Yep number one 2h failure is turbo I would bet at least $2 maybe even $5. Every 2h I have pulled with a turbo had a cracked head. Folks drop em like hot then. I reckon you have had an excellent run with fun.
Coolant system is extremely simple, must admit my heater is always open so I get a bit more circulation. Hopefully if you give it love, it still is ok. I like fresh penrite green.

No a/c either as that is extra stress, so I open the windows.

When I really work my na 2h towing 2t uphill in summer, I watch my aussie engine guard temp, gets up to max 92c. It is obvious it wouldn't want more heat imo.

Did you try stopping the fan with cardboard when running hot? Do you know what sort of psi boost on your turbo for interests sake? Copper or alum rad?
Like Duncan said..give her love. We have had a bout of warm weather.

 

[jas]

Yep number one 2h failure is turbo I would bet at least $2 maybe even $5. Every 2h I have pulled with a turbo had a cracked head. Folks drop em like hot then. I reckon you have had an excellent run with fun.
Coolant system is extremely simple, must admit my heater is always open so I get a bit more circulation. Hopefully if you give it love, it still is ok. I like fresh penrite green.

No a/c either as that is extra stress, so I open the windows.

When I really work my na 2h towing 2t uphill in summer, I watch my aussie engine guard temp, gets up to max 92c. It is obvious it wouldn't more heat imo.

Did you try stopping the fan with cardboard when running hot? Do you know what sort of psi boost on your turbo for interests sake? Copper or alum rad?
Like Duncan said..give her love. We have had a bout of warm weather.

yeh im thinking a head issue,i have no ac either,the fan is solid,
dont know the boost sorry,
copper i believe.
cheers!

 

[Honka]

Before you go jumping in big time, I'd actually be checking a few other things.

1). Go over all your engine and body earthing, you might have a simple case of incorrect indication. Given you went 8kms your oil certainly wouldn't have been normal hot, but that pressure reading looks a bit high if that is at idle and the oil is fairly warm. So...given the temp is reading a bit high as well, perhaps your earth is a bit dud somewhere.

2). Do some direct radiator/block/thermostat housing measurements using an infrared to cross check point 1.

3). Did the new thermostat have a bleed? If not, you can get into an airlock situation which can take some time to clear out. I haven't had this happen on my girl, but I ensure I use a stat with bleed. Some other vehicles where the bleed was not available, they were a complete PITA to get the stat opened enough to flush trapped air and get ALL the air out and the radiator topped up enough during the process...... and it is very easy to get the engine too hot because often the sensors are in the stat housing area and one can wonder why the temp is not rising as expected. External heat to the housing was initially needed and even then it doesn't work quickly because you're mostly relying on air transfer of heat, not direct water contact. Given you have a reading I don't think this is happening, but it's a thought.

4). The other possiblity is that with all your work, you have increased the amount of muck in the bottom of the radiator/cores, which is now impeding flow even more.

My girl has now done well over 100K kms with the turbo without issue, but I treat her nicely. I don't have an EGT system, but I know the motor well and adjust speed and throttle to load and length of time under boost etc. I do have an oil temp gauge which keeps me informed as well. If I'm doing prolonged heavy towing we might only sit on 85-90km/hr, if that, running at around 4-5 psi boost and oil around 110°C. The upshot is my donk has never failed me, whereas a neighbour with a 12HT who runs..sorry..flogs the motor endlessly on high boost towing stuff (because they have to/want to do the speed limit) has blown it up twice over far less kms. I never use high boost for more than a few minutes at most. Theirs lets me apply my favourite acronym I made up years ago... a very bad case of ZMS....Zero Mechanical Sympathy.

cheers, Honka