2h engine mounts (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Dec 5, 2010
Threads
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97
Location
Tennessee
Looking for some help. I bought this 88’ 62 series with a 2h h55 conversion out of a HJ. everything is in and the truck drives down the road fine. The problem is the engine mounts are too far forward. I am looking to see if someone can get me some definitive measurements for the mount locations. I spoke with a couple members on here that have been helpful but wanting a few other measurement to go by. The shifter is not lining up in the Acess cover in the floor, barely enough room to get the accessory belts between the AC compressor and the fan shroud. I am to the point of painting this project but want to make sure most mechanicals are done first.
Here are some pics. Driver side is measuring from the steering sector bolt and passenger side is from the bump stop.

Also the frame was a 62 with an automatic so I don’t have any references from the crossmember.

Any help will be appreciated

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The 2H has different mount positions on the block (for the cast iron arms that bolt to it).. can you get some photos of where yours are bolted on your block? I'd also be interested to see what engine mount arms are bolted to your block as there's at least 3 different variations.

A couple of images below that may be of use (right hand side one not so much use but its the best I can find) Factory (early) HJ60.. I can get some actual measurements tonight. I have a late 60 as well that might be more relevant, just no photos to hand.


I also have a few images of the mounting arms from late vs early 60s, available here. 2H Engine Mounts HJ60 - https://photos.app.goo.gl/MyJD7mcHAn4dA5Nr7

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Thank you
Injection pump side is in the forward mount holes, exhaust side is in the rear mount holes. Hope this helps. Let me know if you need anything else.

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It looks like the steel “wedges” between the frame mount and isolator are different. I have new isolators that I install when I fix this issue. These are torn, I believe from the engine being in a slight bind.

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Interesting. They are late 60 2H mounts. Your description of where the arms are mounted on the block are correct for a factory 2H in a 60.

Anyhow. I really don't like this at all, I feel the chassis mount points have to be moved, what a pain. Every bit of searching I've done does seem to indicate this has to be done for a proper 3F -> 2H conversion. How close is your fan to your radiator?? There is no chance you wont be regularly breaking your rubber engine mounts on a regular basis, potentially with catastrophic radiator consequences depending on whats going on there.

Unfortunately moving them will cause downstream transmission mount issues as well that will need to be sorted.
 
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I agree it’s a bit of a mess, I’m prepared to pull engine and tranny to get it right, I feel like if I had some accurate measurements from a similar set up then I will pull it out, cut the frame mounts off and weld them back where they are supposed to be. The previous owner did move the mounts including tranny crossmemberbut I believe they missed by 11/4” or so. The fan is close to the rad but hasn’t caused a problem YET. If I had the proper measurements, I will weld the frame mounts in drop engine and trans back in and re work the crossmember where it lands. I’m open to other suggestions.
 
If we use the Shock Mount Towers on each side as a reference point I see on my 2H 60s that:

Right Hand Side
The mount sits FORWARD of the shock mount
The centre of the chassis engine mount point to the centre of the shock mount is 190mm

Left Hand Side
The mount sits FORWARD of the shock mount
The centre of the chassis engine mount point to the centre of the shock mount is 40mm


This diagram shows what I mean by the above two measurements.

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Left hand side is 63.5 mm your measurement was 40 mm
Right hand side is 152.4 mm your measurement is 190mm
The fan is sitting about 50mm from the radiator

This will fix the issues that I have with lining up the few areas that I know is a problem when I move the mounts. I really hate having to do it but I believe that it’s necessary. I’m thinking about removing the fenders and inner fenders and see if I can suspend the engine safely and move the frame mounts. This would be a bit easier than having to pull the engine? Thoughts?
 
. I’m thinking about removing the fenders and inner fenders and see if I can suspend the engine safely and move the frame mounts. This would be a bit easier than having to pull the engine? Thoughts?

I would probably do exactly that as well. Its not a small job getting the fenders off though, you can pull the inner and out fenders as one piece. Various bits and pieces are mounted to the inner fender that will have to come off including air filter, bonnet hinges, possibly battery tray depending on style, washer bottle, glow relay, starter relay etc.

The resultant access and visibility you will have is superb and you can give the the engine bay a thorough tidy up at the same time. Having the engine still in the engine bay (although suspended) will let you be certain the mounts are well placed prior to welding. Transmission mount will require attention at the same time. Ugh - and lets not forget you may have tail shaft length issues to deal with. No wonder they cheaped out on the original conversion :(
 
I studied it for a while today, basically stripping everything off the inner fender wells, then remove the hood, radiator, and core support. Then fenders. should have enough room to unbolt the trans mount and move the frame mounts. Sounds good anyway LOL. once the mounts are in the proper location, I can tackle the tranny mount.


Ugh - and lets not forget you may have tail shaft length issues to deal with. No wonder they cheaped out on the original conversion :(

Are you thinking of driveshaft length issues? if so the drive shafts came from the donor hj60 that the engine and tranny came from so I should be ok?
 
Are you thinking of driveshaft length issues? if so the drive shafts came from the donor hj60 that the engine and tranny came from so I should be ok?

Your rear slip joint must be right out and your front slip joint closed right up at the moment?
 
Yes, without a reference I believe that's right. The front seems pushed all the way in and the rear is pulled out some.
 
Yes, without a reference I believe that's right. The front seems pushed all the way in and the rear is pulled out some.

Nasty.. another reason to get this fixed, at full flex compression on the front right wheel I bet there's no slip left in the front and you risk transfer case damage.
 
Agreed, I plan on starting the teardown this weekend. I sent you a pm about some other pics when you get a chance. Thanks again and i will keep you posted
 
I have everything taken apart and I wondered if you would confirm something for me. By all estimation the engine needs to move to the rear of the vehicle. My left side makes since moving the mount to the rear 23.5 mm. However the right side has me confused, by our previous conversation it needs to move FORWARD 37.6mm. Does this make sense to you? As stated befor my engine mount is all the way forward on the block. Power steering pump bolts to it. Pic below
Thanks

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Not sure if these are of any help, but this is how I templated my 2H mounts before cutting them off to move to my FJ60.
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To me it looks like your RH side mount is in the correct location, matching where mine is, at least looking at the large holes at the outside of the frame over the bumpstop.
 
Is your rig in a position to get some measurements from the center of the shock mount? Not sure if this is possible for you. The more input the better as I have very little reference to go by. Duncanrm continues to be very helpful on this as well.
Thanks
 

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