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I am very interested in how this comes together.
I am very interested in how this comes together.
2FE into an FJ80 – discussion
- Thread starter RockDoc
- Start date
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No update yet. I got busy and haven't seen the motor yet. I should be picking it up this week, just waiting for the cam end plug to come in.
I got an update from the machine shop. The engine is ready for pickup. Hopefully my work makes a run there today or tomorrow so I can have it for the weekend. If not then I'll pick it up on Tuesday.
This is how I've been keeping myself busy.
This is how I've been keeping myself busy.
So as a final update it can be done. The motor is in and running and I've been driving it for a few days now. I will put together a complete build thread in the coming days but here is a quick rundown.
A body lift would make this a no-brainer. Period. End of story.
Without a body lift I had to cut my hood, lift the radiator and shroud, adjust all sorts of little odds and ends that would be solved with a body lift.
If you lose the A/C the accesories are easy. I still don't have the A/C hooked up. I need a custom low side hose to the compressor. Also with the a/c I had to clearance the battery tray a bit and cut and section the factory air cleaner housing. Should not be a problem with a body lift though.
I had to source a 62 series flexplate, spacers and flexplate bolts. I wasn't comfortable using the smaller bolts with the larger holes in the 80 series flexplate. looks like a formula for cracks.
The 80 series torque converter works in an 85 2f crank. no question about it. The ends of the cranks are different but the part that is important is the same. I got a complete 62 drivetrain(thanks MsgGrunt) for comparison and the 62 series torque converter ride where the pilot bearing goes, about 1 1/2 inches into the crankshaft. The 80 series torque converter rides in the larger initial recess in the crankshaft, eliminating the the diffence in size problem. I measured the backs of 7 different crankshafts from a 1982, 1984, 1985, 1987, 1988, 1991, and a 1992 and the initial recess in all of them was the same size.
At first I was a little disappointed with the power it was producing, it seemed low. After tweaking the timing and adjusting a few other odds and ends including opening up the VAF and adding some fuel it has come alive. I still haven't brought it over 3500 rpm but it pulls a lot harder down low. There is a hill on the backroads coming home from work that it always used to run with the converter locked but had to down shift to 3rd to make it up. I ran it today at minimum torque converter lockup speed and it ACCELERATED up the hill with the converter locked in 4th gear. Thats at about 1500 rpm. So far I am very happy but it looks like I may have to bump up to at least 89 octane. I got some very minor pinging today. I'll try pulling a bit of timing out of it but I like the power.
All in all, if you aren't afraid of a bit of work this is a great engine for the early 80 series. I got a grand total of $4000 into this, doing most of the work myself. most of that was machine shop and the new toyota pistons and parts. I had no history on the head or block and neither came from a running engine so shot peening, magnafluxing and a full workup on them cost a lot more than I was planning for. It didn't need to be bored out, but I wanted the extra displacement. So that was an unnecessary $1000 between pistons, rings, machining etc. I also needed 2 new motor mounts, all new hoses, and I had to have the locating snout welded back onto the torque converter because I apparently broke it putting the last engine in this beast. If you start with 2 running engines and keep parts replacement to only what is necessary this could be done for a lot cheaper.
Pics to follow
A body lift would make this a no-brainer. Period. End of story.
Without a body lift I had to cut my hood, lift the radiator and shroud, adjust all sorts of little odds and ends that would be solved with a body lift.
If you lose the A/C the accesories are easy. I still don't have the A/C hooked up. I need a custom low side hose to the compressor. Also with the a/c I had to clearance the battery tray a bit and cut and section the factory air cleaner housing. Should not be a problem with a body lift though.
I had to source a 62 series flexplate, spacers and flexplate bolts. I wasn't comfortable using the smaller bolts with the larger holes in the 80 series flexplate. looks like a formula for cracks.
The 80 series torque converter works in an 85 2f crank. no question about it. The ends of the cranks are different but the part that is important is the same. I got a complete 62 drivetrain(thanks MsgGrunt) for comparison and the 62 series torque converter ride where the pilot bearing goes, about 1 1/2 inches into the crankshaft. The 80 series torque converter rides in the larger initial recess in the crankshaft, eliminating the the diffence in size problem. I measured the backs of 7 different crankshafts from a 1982, 1984, 1985, 1987, 1988, 1991, and a 1992 and the initial recess in all of them was the same size.
At first I was a little disappointed with the power it was producing, it seemed low. After tweaking the timing and adjusting a few other odds and ends including opening up the VAF and adding some fuel it has come alive. I still haven't brought it over 3500 rpm but it pulls a lot harder down low. There is a hill on the backroads coming home from work that it always used to run with the converter locked but had to down shift to 3rd to make it up. I ran it today at minimum torque converter lockup speed and it ACCELERATED up the hill with the converter locked in 4th gear. Thats at about 1500 rpm. So far I am very happy but it looks like I may have to bump up to at least 89 octane. I got some very minor pinging today. I'll try pulling a bit of timing out of it but I like the power.
All in all, if you aren't afraid of a bit of work this is a great engine for the early 80 series. I got a grand total of $4000 into this, doing most of the work myself. most of that was machine shop and the new toyota pistons and parts. I had no history on the head or block and neither came from a running engine so shot peening, magnafluxing and a full workup on them cost a lot more than I was planning for. It didn't need to be bored out, but I wanted the extra displacement. So that was an unnecessary $1000 between pistons, rings, machining etc. I also needed 2 new motor mounts, all new hoses, and I had to have the locating snout welded back onto the torque converter because I apparently broke it putting the last engine in this beast. If you start with 2 running engines and keep parts replacement to only what is necessary this could be done for a lot cheaper.
Pics to follow
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Land Speeder
InstaH8R
That is so Billy.... as in billybadass!
New hood
Cuts to hood
Valvecover
Engine bay
Front
And before anybody goes crazy over my horrible sheet metal work on the hood, it will be cleaned up. I was under the gun a bit at the end because I had to get the cruiser out of work to make room for all the spring convertible inventory. I also still don't have the second battery in or the winch hooked up.
Cuts to hood
Valvecover
Engine bay
Front
And before anybody goes crazy over my horrible sheet metal work on the hood, it will be cleaned up. I was under the gun a bit at the end because I had to get the cruiser out of work to make room for all the spring convertible inventory. I also still don't have the second battery in or the winch hooked up.
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Watching 
More pics please..... especially different angles of the hood.
This is looking pretty cool.
what are the newest impressions.
This is looking pretty cool.
what are the newest impressions.
MPG??
- Thread starter
- #51
Awesome
Can't believe I missed this when got it done...
I had a similar experience when I put mine in. It was stronger, but didn't seem to be as big an improvement as I was expecting. But after a while the boost in torque really started to show up on hills and towing.
Can't believe I missed this when got it done...
I had a similar experience when I put mine in. It was stronger, but didn't seem to be as big an improvement as I was expecting. But after a while the boost in torque really started to show up on hills and towing.
So the question I'm wondering is would you do it again or would you just rebuild the 3fe. For the $$ which would give you the bang for the buck?
I can't really comment on the mpg because I'm having a really hard time getting over the grace period. I am getting about 12 mpg which I was getting before, but my foot is in it a lot. I'm really enjoying it. I haven't had a chance to do any long highway trips yet, but my club has a wheeling weekend coming up and it's about 2 hours from home so I should get some more impressions then. One thing I can say is the 2f-e spends a lot more time in 4th with the converter locked. It pulls hills at half throttle on the highway with no complaints where the 3f-e would be downshifting. It also has a much cooler exhaust note
.
As far as cost, When I built the 3f-e in 2004 it did cost a little less, but I didn't go all out on it. I also didn't have to find all the little bit's and pieces to make it fit. Bang for the buck would probably be rebuilding the 3f-e. I got the 2f for free(scrapyard save) and got real lucky and hooked up with someone who was looking to clean out their garage for real cheap. I spent a total of $100 and a lot of favors owed on parts needed to make it fit. Without that costs may have grown. Reassembly with the 3f-e was also a lot easier, just bolt in and go. My a/c still is not working and I'll have to address that soon. we've been lucky with the weather so far, but that will change.
.As far as cost, When I built the 3f-e in 2004 it did cost a little less, but I didn't go all out on it. I also didn't have to find all the little bit's and pieces to make it fit. Bang for the buck would probably be rebuilding the 3f-e. I got the 2f for free(scrapyard save) and got real lucky and hooked up with someone who was looking to clean out their garage for real cheap. I spent a total of $100 and a lot of favors owed on parts needed to make it fit. Without that costs may have grown. Reassembly with the 3f-e was also a lot easier, just bolt in and go. My a/c still is not working and I'll have to address that soon. we've been lucky with the weather so far, but that will change.
More pics from different angles of the hood??
What did you do to the ARB to make it more "high clearance"??
What did you do to the ARB to make it more "high clearance"??
So a 2F valve cover will fit a 3F head? Good to know
$100!!! Wow I'm impressed. Well for that I am definitely in, but I am guessing I couldn't pull that off.
Sounds like the bottom end umph is where this pays off most. I am interested to here how the trip goes.
Keep us in the loop.
Sounds like the bottom end umph is where this pays off most. I am interested to here how the trip goes.
Keep us in the loop.
Yes a 2f valvecover will fit the head. The exhaust valves are close but fit. The pcv system needs to be redone but works.
The ARB I cut at the bottom bend and welded in a bunch of reinforcement. I also plated the recovery points with 3/8ths inch steel plate. The sides also got a healthy trimming for extra clearance. I also clocked the winch and rewired it to work with the wrap coming out of the top of the drum. That let's the fairlead be moved up too. I'll take pics this afternoon.
The ARB I cut at the bottom bend and welded in a bunch of reinforcement. I also plated the recovery points with 3/8ths inch steel plate. The sides also got a healthy trimming for extra clearance. I also clocked the winch and rewired it to work with the wrap coming out of the top of the drum. That let's the fairlead be moved up too. I'll take pics this afternoon.
After running up to New Hampshire to wheel last weekend I'm quite impressed with this. It has a lot more power in the 2000 to 4000 rpm range. I still haven't ran it up over that yet but this thing pulls. There is more power available too I just need more fuel. I can feel it leaning out in spots so I'm questioning if the factory injection can handle the new needs without a bit of help. I need to build a whole new exhaust so I'm gonna put in bungs for a wideband O2 sensor so I can log what it's actually doing and work on compensating the fuel.
On the MPG front it got 15 MPG on that tank, and that is with a half day of wheeling. My day was cut short when a rock rudely removed one of the rear brake hard lines. Thats a full 2mpg over my 3F-E. The motor just doesn't have to work as hard. It's still no 1FZ but I really like the old Iron, and no new rig I buy is going to have been taken care of as well as this one.
On the MPG front it got 15 MPG on that tank, and that is with a half day of wheeling. My day was cut short when a rock rudely removed one of the rear brake hard lines. Thats a full 2mpg over my 3F-E. The motor just doesn't have to work as hard. It's still no 1FZ but I really like the old Iron, and no new rig I buy is going to have been taken care of as well as this one.
Some hood pics as requested. The cowl hood is just a summit racing generic stick on cowl I measured to cover the holes. I't not a perfect solution but it worked.
and some pics of the bumper mods.
Sorry for the crappy camera phone pics. It's all I got.
and some pics of the bumper mods.
Sorry for the crappy camera phone pics. It's all I got.
Cool thanks.... I may be copying this sooner or later.
I've got a plan for my 3FE right now where a T might be added
I've got a plan for my 3FE right now where a T might be added
