2F with an Auto??? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Mace
- Start date
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Just thinking without looking at the parts, but could you mount the starter to the motor mount plate instead of the trans?
there WERE some very early starters that bolted to the bellhousing, the two bolts ran horizontal and not verticle....cruiserrg had that on his old SM420 setup. Unsure if that will actually solve any issues or just create new ones, since the 700 bell won't have a mount built in.....
Mace said:
Right. It will not mount to the engine, but what i was saying was mount the starter to your rear engine mount plate you were thinking about using. i would think it would move the starter toward the front a bit and it would be easy to weld a block to the steel mounting plate with tapped holes to mount the starter to. Put your engine mounting plate on, then put your flexplate on and make your starter fit independant of the adapter plate.
Again, I'm just thinking without having the parts in front of me, chances are fair to middlin' that I don't have a clue.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
i would think that you'd have to shim the flexplate away from the engine. problem is that it needs to move back about .125" from what i can tell, and i would not trust a bunch of shims to be the proper solution.
fwiw: the maximum amount of runout on a flexplate is .006-.008 at the ring gear surface. anything over that and it'll cause a torque converter to pump mis-alignment problem that can and will result in premature pump bushing and or pump rotor failure. either one of those can cause the whole pump to turn into junk aluminum in a hurry. no good.
if i were you, i would attempt to make a set of shims or find some shims and get the spacing figured out. then pay a machinist to make you a new flexplate adapter (between the crank and flexplate) to the proper dimensions. i might know somebody who could possibly machine that little gismo for you if you do not have a source, but i can't promise anything.
fwiw: the maximum amount of runout on a flexplate is .006-.008 at the ring gear surface. anything over that and it'll cause a torque converter to pump mis-alignment problem that can and will result in premature pump bushing and or pump rotor failure. either one of those can cause the whole pump to turn into junk aluminum in a hurry. no good.
if i were you, i would attempt to make a set of shims or find some shims and get the spacing figured out. then pay a machinist to make you a new flexplate adapter (between the crank and flexplate) to the proper dimensions. i might know somebody who could possibly machine that little gismo for you if you do not have a source, but i can't promise anything.
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
or better yet, modify your starter mounting surface. bolt that thing to a small block and install it instead! 
did this about four years ago with a efi 2f and 700r4 in a fj60.
it worked well but is very long.
i built our adapter out of aluminum and it uses the stock toyota starter.
the hardest part is getting the 700r4 cable to get pulled properly so you dont burn up the trans.
wayne
its on my site under adapters
it worked well but is very long.
i built our adapter out of aluminum and it uses the stock toyota starter.
the hardest part is getting the 700r4 cable to get pulled properly so you dont burn up the trans.
wayne
its on my site under adapters
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orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
i don't see why the TV cable should be such a huge issue, although you're not the first person to have mentioned it.
if it were me, i would buy an aftermarket cable and bracket setup. lokar sells both, or you can buy the cable from the dealer or better auto parts store. the mounting brackets (at the carb end) are also available in a universal style from edelbrock and moroso, although i'm sure there are others as well like Mr. gasket,..........
the only tricky part is to find the right "rotational radius" or whatever you want to call it. to figure that out, all you'd have to do is find a stock gm setup like a tbi unit and measure the distance between the throttle shaft and tv cable attachment points. now duplicate that distance on your 2f carb and you should be ready to go.
if it were me, i would buy an aftermarket cable and bracket setup. lokar sells both, or you can buy the cable from the dealer or better auto parts store. the mounting brackets (at the carb end) are also available in a universal style from edelbrock and moroso, although i'm sure there are others as well like Mr. gasket,..........
the only tricky part is to find the right "rotational radius" or whatever you want to call it. to figure that out, all you'd have to do is find a stock gm setup like a tbi unit and measure the distance between the throttle shaft and tv cable attachment points. now duplicate that distance on your 2f carb and you should be ready to go.
upnover said:
What makes that adapter such a high price item? Is there something I am missing?
flat chunk of 6061 alum to machine = serious change ......machine shop makes $$, 50% markup at the selling shop, and things get pricey quickly.....
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
"prototype machining" like that item eats up a lot of time in a hurry. also, this item is not exactly gonna be a huge seller, so the vendor has to make sure that they recoup all their initial cost withing a reasonable time frame, otherwise it's a loosing proposition and projects like that often times are. so the part has to be priced accordingly.
number one rule for any business:
"you're in business to make money". period.
number one rule for any business:
"you're in business to make money". period.
woody said:
that makes better sense.....
- Thread starter
- #54
Nice that it has already been done.
I am still going to try to get it done with the Chevy starter I think.
(harder to rework the current adapter to do the toyota starter)
I am still going to try to get it done with the Chevy starter I think.
(harder to rework the current adapter to do the toyota starter)
these guys may be of some assistance as well....looks like they've been around the block a few times...
http://www.wilcap.com/webdoc8.htm
http://www.wilcap.com/webdoc8.htm
orangefj45
Supporting Vendor
upnover said:
how about doing a timing mark on the harmonic balancer, like on a small block?
could be done but might be difficult if you are running a three groove pulley due to lack of room on the surface for some good reference.
i could not sell a kit if i told the person they would have to come up with a way of finding tdc and marking their balancer to set timing.
wayne
i could not sell a kit if i told the person they would have to come up with a way of finding tdc and marking their balancer to set timing.
wayne
- Thread starter
- #60
Not that big of a deal.
For the price I'll figure out how to get a pointer on there
And wayne, you will sell a set of custom made leaf spring mounts (front) with no provision for the pumpkin
For the price I'll figure out how to get a pointer on there
And wayne, you will sell a set of custom made leaf spring mounts (front) with no provision for the pumpkin
