2F with an Auto??? (1 Viewer)

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Mace said:
I see no reason that I can't but honestly I have not bolted it up yet..

Butch seems to have worked with them before. So I really want to see what information he has about them.. I don't like the idea of starting down a path that has been ran many times unsuccesfully.

When I was on the pit crew for an ARCA car, some had them, the pressure plate for the car that used the plate was offset 3/8" further rearward,and the pilot brg was 3/8" thicker.....we bought a motor at a race, & had to swap all that over cause we did not use it on our car.
 
Mace said:
I called you one time on two different phones..

so bite me :flipoff2:.
:confused: :confused:
2 calls, is 2 calls
bitch :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
 
Texican said:
When I was on the pit crew for an ARCA car, some had them, the pressure plate for the car that used the plate was offset 3/8" further rearward,and the pilot brg was 3/8" thicker.....we bought a motor at a race, & had to swap all that over cause we did not use it on our car.
Do you think that the .090 plates will be an issue??
 
Mace,
Keep your s*** together until after the Hammers..........

We may need to get those parts copied in Solidworks and talk to Woody about machining these aluminum plates up in Wisconsin...... with a few tweeks here and there for mounting and the starter.....


Bitchin, simply bitchin :beer:
 
redcorn said:
Mace,
Keep your s*** together until after the Hammers..........

We may need to get those parts copied in Solidworks and talk to Woody about machining these aluminum plates up in Wisconsin...... with a few tweeks here and there for mounting and the starter.....


Bitchin, simply bitchin :beer:
I am not going to change anything in my rig untill next winter.
There are still a bunch of variables that I need to deal with about this conversion before I try to stuff it in my rig..

Hammers will be just fine ;)

Get your ass out here.
 
Mace-
I've used the exact .090 mid plate shown in the Jeg's link. They include a matching thickness spacer to space a flywheel or flexplate. Yes, these are hard mounted typically but you could work something up to use generic biscuit style rubber mounts. As far as strength, if your motor rips this plate apart it should be on display at the Smithsonian. Keep in mind modern dragsters hold their motors in place with hose clamps...

Good luck.
 
Texican said:
:confused: :confused:
2 calls, is 2 calls
bitch :flipoff2: :flipoff2: :flipoff2:

You should setup a 900 number and charge for "tech support."
 
fj40charles said:
You should setup a 900 number and charge for "tech support."
"Hi this is butch if you need me to tell you which tool you need to get the job done press 1"

"if you need to know what hole it fits into press 2"

:rainbow:
 
Mace said:
"Hi this is butch if you need me to tell you which tool you need to get the job done press 1"

"if you need to know what hole it fits into press 2"

:rainbow:

hahaha!!!!!
 
Got the adapter mocked up on my spare motor.

It seems like the flexplate is actually too close to the starter. I know I can space it out a bit but honestly it looks like a spacer to move the flexplate out a bit is in order.

I can see why it ate starters. It makes a lot of noise while turning the flexplate with no load on the motor (no head)
motoradapter1.jpg
motoradapter4.jpg
motoradapter5.jpg
 
Woody, can you take a quick pic of the location of your starter in relation to the flexplate for me??

it looks like I can easily space the flexplate out a good 1/8" without issue..

Although I do need to keep in mind the location of the flywheel in relation to the block too. Anyone happen to have a measurment?
 
I can...will do tonite...good timing too, tranny didn't get installed yet, but flexplate is on...

lookin good...
 
Roswell Rat said:
Mace-
Keep in mind modern dragsters hold their motors in place with hose clamps...

Good luck.



Pic.....
 
And a distance between the flexplate and the tranny mounting surface??

Thanks..

It looks like one of the major problems in that the starter is in the wrong place front to back..
 
put a straight edge across the flexplate, only touched the outer face of the gear.....distance to the mating surface of the block was 3/4" based on my scientific $2.89 tape measure and new contact lenses....

:D
 
Okay, it looks like I am more like .4" or so..
 
the face of the starter (back of the rounded nose portion) sits back from the face of the block by .125 or so.......they are not flush....I'll wager the adapater plate assumed those were flush surfaces and drilled the mounting hole accordingly.
 

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