2F Turbo (1 Viewer)

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Circle track and road race cars don't drive thru the sticks. Those with rear axle pumps & cooler plumbing are pavement only machines. Tear either line loose with a stick, rock or what-ever and it is a major problem.

Carbs and turbos have been done many times. Blow-thru or draw-thru both. Each has it's pros and cons. I too would sooner do EFI with a turbo than a carb with a turbo.
 
I tracked down a car where the turbo in the first pic was installed in a 3F carbed engine . ( we never got the 3F-E in Africa )

The car idles smoother than my 2F-E . The current owner bought the car with it fitted and believed it was a " altitude compensator" ( that is what a mechanic told him ).
Economy is good and it seems to be reliable as it has been there for many years .

Interesting asbestos heat shield


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Do you know what turbo that is? Looks like a Holset but I can't quite tell which one. HX25w maybe?
 
I am looking for best ways to pull more power out of my 87 fj60 that is up on 35s. It has original motor and has been professionally rebuilt 30,000 miles ago. Very reliable and original, so I'd rather keep it, and not swap. What can I do to get more power...just too sluggish and smells like gas. Running rich? I like carbs as they are less complicated. I was thinking larger diameter exhaust, header / manifold, turbos, higher cam performance carb, aggressive cam. Thoughts? Appreciate help.
 
Oh, and what kind of horsepower gains might be expected from those?
 
Ive been driving Saab turbos for the last 20+ years and I can assure you that a turbo can increase engine efficiency and mileage if it’s tuned properly. My 9-5 daily driver has a 2.3L 16v turbo (TD04) and intercooled. Makes around 220hp and similar torque. Great torque range allowing for running a lower gear than it’s non turbo equivalent thus reducing rpms and fuel burn.

That said the Saab benefits from 40 years of turbo and efi system development.

I’ve thought about doing a turbo on my 2f and I think the way to do this is go with a small fast spoiling turbo, intercooler, and efi system. At the minimum switch to a TBI but My gut says go to something like megasquirt and do a multiport system. Having an injector at each intake port allows fuel mixture to spray in and aid in cooling the valves. A 3fe head swap would allow for the efi intake manifold to be used siding in sensor and injector placement.

Keep the boost pressure low....in the 5-7psi range to minimize temps and knock conditions. Or go higher boost but find an efi or ignition system capable of reacting to knock....you don’t want to melt pistons.

After the turbo a large diameter large radius outlet will aid in performance. If you don’t have a turbo kit now is a good time to consider building a nice custom stainless exhaust manifold.

My biggest worry on a 2f turbo would be heat. But with 5 pounds of boost you would likely be ok.

Aside from heat I think lag will be challenge. These engines are big and slow revving but do move a lot of air when then spin albeit through less than optimal intake and exhaust passages. I think if you could build useable boost by 2000 rpm you would really feel the benefit of a turbo. A small turbo has a chance of doing this or maybe a hybrid but at least you don’t have to worry about making good boost at 4000 rpm and up.
 
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I am looking for best ways to pull more power out of my 87 fj60 that is up on 35s. It has original motor and has been professionally rebuilt 30,000 miles ago. Very reliable and original, so I'd rather keep it, and not swap. What can I do to get more power...just too sluggish and smells like gas. Running rich? I like carbs as they are less complicated. I was thinking larger diameter exhaust, header / manifold, turbos, higher cam performance carb, aggressive cam. Thoughts? Appreciate help.
if i'm understanding what you're thinking as far as parts go, everything on that list is pushing operating rpm range up, not what you want. if you're gonna hotrod that motor, do some research as to what you need to build torque as low as possible in rpm. in-line 6s are inherently more of a drafthorse rather than a thoroughbred
 
It's a gasoline powered tractor engine. It's not meant to make a bunch of power above 3000rpm. I don't remember the exact HP figures (135 brand new?) for the 2F, but if you're running 7.5psi boost (I'd be afraid to go any higher than that), you're only gonna get 50% more hp, at BEST. So that briings you from what? Probably 100 to 150 maybe? Not worth the work in my book. And I'm a Subaru turbo fan.
 
I appreciate the advice. I just keep thinking it's a beefy motor and how we used to build up 350 V-8's via by cams, headers and higher flow carbs and was hoping it could help the I6.
 
Put it back on 28’s.
Ha. Yes I could remove weight of extra seat, sheet metal and a few tires, but then I'd have an fj60 motorcycle.
 

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