2F Oil Drain Plug Torque Spec
- Thread starter cbmontgo
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20 ft-lbs.
There is a thread for common torque values in the FAQ page.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/129878-suggestion-faq-common-torque-values.html
There is a thread for common torque values in the FAQ page.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/129878-suggestion-faq-common-torque-values.html
- Thread starter
- #3
Thanks! I should have thought of that. You da man...
Found this... Hope fhis
land cruiser
2007-17: 30
98-2006: 29
97: 18
land cruiser
2007-17: 30
98-2006: 29
97: 18
The threaded insert in these pans does not like to be over tightened. Ive seen more than one leak from deformation. Use a new gasket and i always use a thin smear of black RTV to seal and torque to about 20 ft lbs
Are you using a fiber gasket or the alum ring?
I've used both and both work fine. Whatever is available at local parts store. Stock I believe is a metal crush gasket.
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This is what happens:
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I don't believe that either of this gaskets are for the oil drain plug. The steel one is for the diffs and the aluminum one is for the transfer case. I think the oil plug gasket is fiber. Toyota part 90430-12031.
You may be right, I didn't check, but I've replaced my drain plug with the 10mm allen one above that has a longer magnet to catch crap in the oil.
Ahhhh I have a crush style gasket on mine.
I've used copper, aluminum, crush, and plastic gaskets on my Cruiser and 4Runner, and they all don't leak haha.
Here's an interesting tidbit to nibble on....
When I bought my cruiser 30 years ago I was a relative youngster and didn't know jack about working on cars. When I changed the oil the first time after I got it, I screwed back in the drain plug before filling it without even considering replacing the drain plug gasket. The gasket is fiber (not metal) and didn't know that it should be replaced.
So I never did... for 20 years.
I used that same original fiber drain plug gasket that was stuck on the plug for two decades and it never leaked. Never used a torque wrench either. Just wrist tight
When I bought my cruiser 30 years ago I was a relative youngster and didn't know jack about working on cars. When I changed the oil the first time after I got it, I screwed back in the drain plug before filling it without even considering replacing the drain plug gasket. The gasket is fiber (not metal) and didn't know that it should be replaced.
So I never did... for 20 years.
I used that same original fiber drain plug gasket that was stuck on the plug for two decades and it never leaked. Never used a torque wrench either. Just wrist tight
0.325 ugga duggas
In a pinch, when I misplaced the fiber gasket & didn’t have a replacement, I cleaned both surfaces well and reinstalled the drain plug with no gasket. It didn’t leak but I was a bit nervous and had a subsequently had a large supply of gaskets on hand.
@Spike Strip what does one do in this situation? I just replaced my drain plug/gasket and noticed the old one had like sewing thread wrapped around it and inside the pan hole. Torqued new one to spec and now it’s leaking.
What you saw as sewing thread was probably the remnants of Teflon pipe-sealing tape.
When I change the oil, I wait until there's nothing but a few drops coming out, then clean and dry the drain plug and put a bunch of Black RTV around the base/gasket of the bolt and a few threads up. Clean the female threads on the pan best you can and tighten the bolt to spec and let the RTV cure at least for a couple hours (best overnight), then fill with oil. Been doing that for 10 years now and no leak and the pic above is my oil pan.
@Spike Strip what does one do in this situation? I just replaced my drain plug/gasket and noticed the old one had like sewing thread wrapped around it and inside the pan hole.Torqued new one to spec and now it’s leaking.
You the man! Thanks a ton