2F Coffee Table

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GLTHFJ60

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Location
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Hey gents, I've got my old 2F sitting on the garage floor and instead of getting rid of it, I think it'd be a cool idea to make it into a glass top coffee table. Here is one done with a V8, but we're Toyota nuts, so I want it to be a 2F:
http://www.thesmokingtire.com/2012/how-to-make-that-engine-coffee-table/

I'm posting to document the work, but also to ask what do you guys think would look good?

I'm thinking block with pistons and crank in it, sitting on a pedestal of some kind, with locking rubber casters so it can roll around and not mess up my hardwood floors any more than they already are. Maybe even a small electrical motor that can turn the crank slowly so non-gearheads that come over can get a quick lesson on how gasoline motors work :D
 
This would be very cool, definitely subscribed. I really like the idea of the electric motor that turns the crankshaft.
 
You should definitely do this, in fact bolt it to the floor in the living room. Absolutely do it now. 'Cause one day you're going to be married and all your cool sh#t like cable spool tables and cinderblock book shelves is going to be on the curb waiting for the municipal community waste collection day.

Subscribing!

:cheers:
 
This would be very cool, definitely subscribed. I really like the idea of the electric motor that turns the crankshaft.

I'm liking this idea too. Need to figure it out though!

You should definitely do this, in fact bolt it to the floor in the living room. Absolutely do it now. 'Cause one day you're going to be married and all your cool sh#t like cable spool tables and cinderblock book shelves is going to be on the curb waiting for the municipal community waste collection day.

Subscribing!

:cheers:

:lol: That's hilarious. Bolting it to the floor would defeat the idea of not messing up the hardwood floors though, lmao.



For the drive motor, using a modified starter is the obvious choice, but how do we slow it down? Will a starter motor run on AC power? If it will, I can use a PWM or rheostat to modify input voltage to modify motor speed.
 
Absolutely do it. :hillbilly:
We had a small block chevy race car engine in our living room when me and my buddy had an apartment back in the day. Didn't have a table top. Just an engine against a wall. lol
Used to get alot of laughs.
 
ill donate the glass to the cause..... got a medium and a large piece for ya
 
ill donate the glass to the cause..... got a medium and a large piece for ya

You are too generous :D

Tempered? Dimensions?

Thanks Jason!
 
A complete 2F would be F-ing heavy inside a house. Just use the block, head, pan, side cover, intake manifold and paint a rusty old exh header bright silver. It'll look good w/ a fresh coat of paint, and a polished aluminum VC, WP, FP, int manifold. Leaving out FW, crank, cam, gears, valvetrain, rods&pistons, OP will reduce the sagging of the floor.

Pics or it didn't happen!
 
A complete 2F would be F-ing heavy inside a house. Just use the block, head, pan, side cover, intake manifold and paint a rusty old exh header bright silver. It'll look good w/ a fresh coat of paint, and a polished aluminum VC, WP, FP, int manifold. Leaving out FW, crank, cam, gears, valvetrain, rods&pistons, OP will reduce the sagging of the floor.

Pics or it didn't happen!
Not like Jim ever thought about this or anything :D
 
It would be even more of a conversation piece if one were to use a block with an exit wound where the rods escaped out through the side...

I'm thinkin' that if FJ40Jim didn't have a wife there would be many engine block coffee tables around his home.

Nick
 
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Spun 2F cranks make great legs for dining tables.


Or at least that's what I've heard. I havent measured to find the rubber pipe cap to put on the cranks snouts so they don't scratch the floor. Wasn't me...
 
Spun 2F cranks make great legs for dining tables.


Or at least that's what I've heard. I havent measured to find the rubber pipe cap to put on the cranks snouts so they don't scratch the floor. Wasn't me...

I bet a cut tennis ball would work :hillbilly:


No pictures worth posting here. 2F is sitting on my garage floor, slowly turning the floor black:lol:

I've gotta clean up my garage around the motor so that I can take it apart. It's starting to look like the height is a problem if I leave the oil pan and head on, so it may well just be the block. Other option is to do what JimC suggested and use the intake, exhaust and head with no crank so it sits closer to flat on the floor. Which one would be cooler :hhmm:
 
You're on to something there...
The block is flat on the bottom, if the crank & maincaps are left off. The block is flat on top, or the head is flat on top if the valves & guides are left out (bare casting).

Leaving the intake & exhaust on the side of the head, makes the engine tippy toward the manifold side, but bolting on just the polished alloy intake adds only a couple pounds, while making a larger area to support an oval glass tabletop.
 
You're on to something there...
The block is flat on the bottom, if the crank & maincaps are left off. The block is flat on top, or the head is flat on top if the valves & guides are left out (bare casting).

Leaving the intake & exhaust on the side of the head, makes the engine tippy toward the manifold side, but bolting on just the polished alloy intake adds only a couple pounds, while making a larger area to support an oval glass tabletop.

I'm thinking take the internals out so the blocks sit flat on the floor. I'll leave the head on with valves, guides, springs and spring retaiers. Use the head bolts to secure a glass top a couple of inches above the valve springs so you can see the whole assembly. Have the head and block hot-tanked and then painted with a clear coat to allow the raw metal color to show. :hhmm:
 
I like it. Could also bolt the dizzy and fuel pump on as well as the front engine mounts and make some rubber feet

That's not a bad idea! Paint them contrasting colors, throw some old plugs and wires on and it'd look pretty effing sweet. Good idea on the feet too. The factory motor mounts would be a good place to mount casters or something!
 
Finally got some progress on disassembling the motor. Pretty greasy!

IMG_20130202_152434.jpg


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Weird flaking on top of the cylinders. Indication of burning oil?

IMG_20130202_153824.jpg


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IMG_20130202_155445.jpg


I'm leaning towards having the block, head and intake tanked and clear coated, then the side cover and oil filter housing painted black, dizzy body red, cap black, wires plug wires red with an orange oil filter and a white valve cover. No rotating assembly, sitting flat on the floor.

Thoughts?
 
I'd have it sit flat. It will just complicate it to try and allow the assembly to rotate. I'd do just the block too, to keep it as light as possible.

If your head is good, you should hang onto it as the FJ60 head is getting hard to find without cracks.
 

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