2F Camshaft (1 Viewer)

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"AT 2000 rpm where F and 2F make max torque".

Ummm... this is determined by... the camshaft. ;)

The 260 comes on right at 1000 or so all the way up to rod bending, block penetrating rpm. ;) I was unable to feel any low end gain of the 250 over the 260 and a BIG difference everywhere else in the much expanded power band when using the 260. The 270 starts to lose a little bit down low.

Mark...
I cant answer that directly, but with the 250S cam, pulls from idle to where I shift, 3200, 3300 RPM….above that, the torque curve seems to flatten out. Now that could be the carburetor on my F, Rochester B series, single barrel….seems starved for air above 3400 RPM.

Other than that, the 250 is IMO, the best match.
 
I cant answer that directly, but with the 250S cam, pulls from idle to where I shift, 3200, 3300 RPM….above that, the torque curve seems to flatten out. Now that could be the carburetor on my F, Rochester B series, single barrel….seems starved for air above 3400 RPM.

Other than that, the 250 is IMO, the best match.
I shift bone stock 2Fs at 4000 all day every day. Shifting at 3200 you can't hardly get out of your own way, much less merge into traffic! :confused:

Your torque curve seems to flatten out because... it DOES!

That is because... you are running a 250 degree cam. ;)

That itty bitty carb ain't helping either.

Mark...
 
What cam do I need with nitro and methanol/water injection while using both a turbo and a supercharger?
I'd start with a 4 piece cam. 'cause it is gonna be in at least that many pretty quick. ;)

Mark...
 
I shift bone stock 2Fs at 4000 all day every day. Shifting at 3200 you can't hardly get out of your own way, much less merge into traffic! :confused:

Your torque curve seems to flatten out because... it DOES!

That is because... you are running a 250 degree cam. ;)

That itty bitty carb ain't helping either.

Mark...
I don’t know about that, I drive pretty aggressive, and 3200, in third is close to 65. In second it’s the north side of 40. However with the 30% overdrive (Hone-O-Drive) at 60 to 65 at 2000 rpm, it pulls great. And if I remember correctly, the F and 2F max torque are rated at at 2000 rpm.

And yes the ‘itty bitty’ carb is a restriction, but it runs a smooth as a ‘baby’s butt’…..can’t beat that🤣🤣🤣🤣
 
I shift bone stock 2Fs at 4000 all day every day. Shifting at 3200 you can't hardly get out of your own way, much less merge into traffic! :confused:

Your torque curve seems to flatten out because... it DOES!

That is because... you are running a 250 degree cam. ;)

That itty bitty carb ain't helping either.

Mark...
I don’t know about that, I drive pretty aggressive, and 3200, in third is close to 65. In second it’s the north side of 40. However with the 30% overdrive (Hone-O-Drive) at 60 to 65 at 2000 rpm, it pulls great. And if I remember correctly, the F and 2F max torque are rated at 2000 rpm.

And yes the ‘itty bitty’ carb is a restriction, but it runs a smooth as a ‘baby’s butt’…..can’t beat that🤣🤣🤣
 
I don’t know about that, I drive pretty aggressive, and 3200, in third is close to 65. In second it’s the north side of 40. However with the 30% overdrive (Hone-O-Drive) at 60 to 65 at 2000 rpm, it pulls great. And if I remember correctly, the F and 2F max torque are rated at max torque at 2000 rpm.

And yes the ‘itty bitty’ carb is a restriction, but it runs a smooth as a ‘babies butt’…..can’t beat that🤣🤣🤣

1800 rpm peak torque from the factory.

But, again, your peak torque is determined by the camshaft profile. So this is completely irrelevant when we are talking about installing a different camshaft.

With a longer cam, and induction, exhaust and compression to support it, a 2F can make at or over 200 HP and will pull strong from a high idle past 6 grand (basically it will keep pulling until it blows). Daily drive a 2F of this flavor for a while, shifting at 5 grand through the gears when you actually want to get up to speed expeditiously and you will never think to call 3200 rpm shifts anything but lethargic. ;)



Before anyone jumps in to talk about how it is supposed to be a "tractor motor" or about how you do not need power/engine speed off road... the cam profile I mention here gives away NOTHING on the bottom end. And I still remember the first warmed over 2F I built, flying through sticky mud holes in second gear, backing off the throttle to avoid over revving and simply gaining too much speed... the same mud holes that had reduced me to grinding and clawing through at a crawl in first gear before the engine mods... with my foot on the floor and listening to the rpms dropping hoping to reach the other side.

The difference on long steep hill climbs was even more impressive.

Oh yeah... the longer duration cam results in noticeably improved fuel consumption at NA highways speeds too.

Win Win. ;)

Mark...
 
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Here’s a screen shot of Mr. Toyota’s HP and Torque for an F. I don’t think the 2F is that much different.
Max torque at 2000 and 2200 for the F. These engines pull great from idle to 3000 with stock accoutrements. If you want to rev to 5000, then that’s your opinion…..I’m looking at it from a conservative angle, non-counterweighted crank, low compression, unequal intake and exhaust runner length, push rod valve train…..ain’t no OHC BMW IL6….and although 200 HP may be a target, Mazda is getting that out of 1800 CC, half the displacement of these cast iron beasts.

Be Good. Drive it like you stole it my friend.
 
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Here’s a screen shot of Mr. Toyota’s HP and Torque for an F. I don’t think the 2F is that much different.
Max torque at 2000 and 2200 for the F. These engines pull great from idle to 3000 with stock accoutrements. If you want to rev to 5000, then that’s your opinion…..I’m looking at it from a conservative angle, non-counterweighted crank, low compression, unequal intake and exhaust runner length, push rod valve train…..ain’t no OHC BMW IL6….and although 200 HP may be a target, Mazda is getting that out of 1800 CC, half the displacement of these cast iron beasts.

Be Good. Drive it like you stole it my friend.
To be honest I have paid a LOT more attention to the 2F and 3F engines than I ever did the F. I probably spent more time replacing the Fs than I did maintaining them. Never bothered to up grade one... 'cause the best upgrade was ... a 2F. ;)

I do know that the 155/230 claimed numbers above are... let's be gentle and say... just a wee bit on the optimistic side. ;)

The 2F was rated (more honestly) at 136hp @ 3600rpm and 210ftbls @ 1800 rpm

I'm not saying that any Land Cruiser engine is an impressive powerhouse. But when someone asks about upping their power a bit and answers that talk about Rochester 1 bbl carbs and 3200 RPM shifts start to show up, I am happy to give a little more accurate input based on a decent amount of personal experience.

There is no doubt that the F series engines are primitive and handicapped by their basic design. That said, I know of two specific builds that yielded over 400 RWHP! Driving through the factory transmission and TC with factory diffs. Both were modified extensively of course and were used only for racing purposes. But they were still 2Fs.


Mark...
 
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To be honest I have paid a LOT more attention to the 2F and 3F engines than I ever did the F. I probably spent more time replacing the Fs than I did maintaining them. Never bothered to up grade one... "cause the best upgrade was ... a 2F. ;)

I do know that the 155/230 claimed numbers above are... let's be gentle and say... just a wee bit on the optimistic side. ;)

The 2F was rated (more honestly) at 136hp @ 3600rpm and 210ftbls @ 1800 rpm

I'm not saying that any Land Cruiser engine is an impressive powerhouse. But when someone asks about upping their power a bit and answers that talk about Rochester 1 bbl carbs and 3200 RPM shifts start to show up, I am happy to give a little more accurate input based on a decent amount of personal experience.

There is no doubt that the F series engines are primitive and handicapped by their basic design. That said, I know of two specific builds that yielded over 400 RWHP! Driving through the factory transmission and TC with factory diffs. Both were modified extensively of course and were used only for racing purposes. But they were still 2Fs.


Mark...
I wish it didnt cost a years worth of mortgage payments to build a decent 2f…..would love to experience a properly built and balanced 2f
 
I wish it didnt cost a years worth of mortgage payments to build a decent 2f…..would love to experience a properly built and balanced 2f
If you build it yourself it really is not that expensive. You can get more power out of a lot of different engines that you can swap in rather than warming up a 2F. But if you keep you power goals realistic to what is needed/can be used in a Cruiser, AND look at the fact that you already have a 2F to start with... and there are no adapters, fabrication and all the other stuff that a well done conversion entails... a little bit of old school hot rod work on a 2F is really not that expensive an option.

Mark...
 
My 60 with a 2F has 280k miles. My 40 with an F (and sniper) has unknown miles and burns tons of oil. I shift both at 3000 rpm min, usually 3500 ish. Both will easily cruise 80+ mph. I feel like there’s nothing there until I hit 2500-2800 rpm.

@EWheeler whenever I finish my 2FE build for my 60, come on up and drive it! Going to be balanced, the 260 delta cam and some other bits.
 

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