2F,4:88,37'

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@Mace

Is it possible for the transmission shifter to be indicating 4th gear but the shift collar to stay on 3rd? And when he goes it downshift it grabs 3rd and goes the rest of the way down?

Not really, no. But very odd things happen soemtimes when you get stuck in between gears..

3500 RPM?!

I'm scared to go anywhere near 3k.

I hit 5K with my 2F reasonably often..
 
Crawlpedia calculator..
Engine RPM / Engine Speed Calculator

Fun toy to play with. Even if it was stuck in 3rd gear (1.516:1 ratio) that would put him at about 4000rpm at 60 mph


So you've had this truck for a while now (bought at auction right) and have been driving it with smaller tires and Stock (I assume) gears in the axles correct?

Yeah picked it up from the auction. I never got to drive it with the stock tires. the first ride was with 37s (stock gearing) (no highway tho)
What does your cable driven speedo read? The change from 3.73 to 4.88 gears should balance pretty close the change from stock (28" I think) to 37" tires. Have you done more than one run to rule out wonkiness on the GPS figures?

Are you forgetting to mention the fact that you are laying down massive rubber at highway speed? :) Transfer case has been regeared with underdrive gears?

Transfer case is stock.
3500 RPM?!

I'm scared to go anywhere near 3k.

Its a feeling like your about to s*** a brick house! no fun.
 
My bet is 5.29's and your tires are aired way too low.
 
Colonel Mustard in the library with the clutch!​
 
I agree, that doesn't seem right. I just installed 488s & I have 35s. Eventually someday will go to 37 but in my case, 2500rpm = 60mph speedo reading (not actual).

Edit, I mean 55 (orange mph on speedo) doh
 
did check the tire pressures....All at 13 psi Would that really make a big difference?

With my little kids I call this a teaching moment.

The wheel turns once and you move forward the circumference of the tire as a function of the radius measured from the hub center to the ground. When you air down the tire the hub gets closer to the ground and thus the radius is reduced. 13 PSI is way too low for the street and in fact very dangerous. Air up to like 28 PSI or so immediately. The equation is this:

2*pi*radius (r).

If your tires sag 3" at 13 psi, the effective diameter is now 6" less (2X the reduction in radius) which gets you to around a 30" tire with 4.88s and will definitely not only force your engine to rev much higher but also work hard to overcome all of that rolling resistance thus making it loud (sounds like blowing up).

This explains why your speedo is accurate. Your tires sagged to the inflated diameter of whatever was on there before.

Frank
 
With my little kids I call this a teaching moment.

The wheel turns once and you move forward the circumference of the tire as a function of the radius measured from the hub center to the ground. When you air down the tire the hub gets closer to the ground and thus the radius is reduced. 13 PSI is way too low for the street and in fact very dangerous. Air up to like 28 PSI or so immediately. The equation is this:

2*pi*radius (r).

If your tires sag 3" at 13 psi, the effective diameter is now 6" less (2X the reduction in radius) which gets you to around a 30" tire with 4.88s and will definitely not only force your engine to rev much higher but also work hard to overcome all of that rolling resistance thus making it loud (sounds like blowing up).

This explains why your speedo is accurate. Your tires sagged to the inflated diameter of whatever was on there before.

Frank

Reduced pressure doesn't lessen the circumference / tread length of the tire. The size of the circle isn't reduced, the tire deforms from a circle.
 
Irrelevant. Rubber is not dimensionally stable . It folds in on itself, etc... The relaxed part that is floating in air does not reference the vehicle's motion. Only the contact patch matters as far as where the vehicle is going and how far is goes with each revolution.

To illustrate the converse, overinflating has the opposite effect.

Frank
 
I had them set to 32 psi before dropping it off at the shop.. I just called them they stated they has dropped them to lower the car for easy access and forgot to let me know or fill them back up. I will try test drive tonight.
 
Ok, so as someone stated, this thread has gone on too long. On another note however, my 60 had an issue with the t-case, where if you shifted into low and then back out into high, even if the lever moved and went into position, the t-case would stay in low. It required me to go under the truck and push up against the small lever attached to the shaft coming out of the top of the t-case to actually be able to shift from low to high. I can almost bet that you have the same problem. Make sure when you shift you can actually feel it. A bit of a clunk of sorts, not just smooth movement. My take is he is definitely in 4 low, and the lever just moves like it did in my truck without actually shifting the darn t-case. I installed a little collar on the shaft to keep it propped up and [problem was solved.
 
here's a sketch explaining my issue and how I resolved.
 

Attachments

I think we ruled that out, I think it's impossible to do 60 mph in 4 low. At least with this combination. I think top speed in 4 low with this setup would be around 40-45 mph, thats with math in my head though
 

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