Ok be gentle with me...
What are the advantages to a 24volt BJ70?
What are the disadvatages?
Peter in Alberta
What are the advantages to a 24volt BJ70?
What are the disadvatages?
Peter in Alberta
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" need a 24v source to boost from."
This isn't necessariy true. I've jumped my from a 12V battery pack connected to a single battery.
Is there any potential to harm my system doing this?
"SO to boost to it, I would Hook the positive jumper cable to the positive battery post on the first battery. And the ground(negative) cable to the engine block on the dead vehicle or negative post on the first battery."
This is exactly the procedure I follow when I connect my battery pack. I spent some time thinking about it as well and spent a fair amount of time checking voltages all along the chain to make sure I wasn't fuc., er, making a mistake.
Thanks for you time, Brownbear.
Yes, 24V on paper should be better from a current consumption point of view. In reality 24V has caused me more problems than it's worth and that's PRACTICAL experience IN THE BUSH. And I am an EE.
The issue is if one battery goes 'weak', and that HAS happened to me, the 24V system will NOT start. The weak battery just dies rapidly and does not allow the starter to crank fast enough, glow plugs to heat and/or fuel cutoff motor to function. Yes, we can talk about 'well maintained' till the cows come in, but batteries DO die overnight.
Once one battery goes 'weak' a 24V system cannot charge it back up, you will find the 'good' battery overshadows the 'weak' one. The alternator just cannot get the 2 batteries balanced. The only way to correct the situation is to take a 12V charger and get the 'weak' one topped back up again.
I know that I've had one good battery and the second one has gone 'weak' and it is impossible to crank the engine over to the point of starting it.
After converting my 4wd to 12V I started it on one weak 45a/hr 12V battery. It cranked slower than I've ever had my 24V system try to crank and after a couple of attempts it started. I've NEVER been able to start the same vehicle at that speed with the 24V setup. I'm guessing that either the 24V glow plugs or the 24V fuel cutoff motor just couldn't do the job when presented with one good and one weak battery.
Either way, the 24V system is just a pain in the rear that I don't have to face anymore. Nissan & Toyota went away from 24V systems to 12V systems for a good reason. The reason automakers are looking at going to 36V or higher are for all the b/s accessories that new vehicles are getting buried under - power seats/seat heaters/ECU's in every gadget, power windows, sunroof motors, media systems etc etc etc.
Simple question to folk that think 24V is as or more reliable - have you heard of folk with dual 12V batteries not being able to get going under their own steam with A flat battery AND have you heard of folk with 24V vehicles not being able to start under their own steam with A flat battery?
Wiring - I converted my 4wd to 12V from 24V and I had access to the wiring harness of the 12V vehicle and the wire gauge was the same for both. Yes, 24V has nominally 1/2 the current, but that's really only an issue with a couple of cables - starter motor, headlights and winch. The rest of the wire's only carry a couple or so amps.
Finally, I doubt we'll come to an agreement which is better. I'll just say I spent 10 FULL days converting mine from 24V to 12V and felt I had a much more dependable vehicle when done (from a starting perspective).
I've driven many tracks and non-tracks in the oz bush (1000's of miles) in a lone vehicle and I was never stranded due to the 24V system. When I was a lone vehicle I was VERY conservative about battery condition etc - but each time I started the vehicle I was VERY conscious of how fast it cranked over. I knew IF the engine fired over, the diesel reliablity would get me home. It was the "IF" part that always was a worry....
cheers,
george.
If I was to have a 24 volt vehicle.....IMOP.. cause I too like electric goodies. I would install a second alternator, A big ass 12 volt one. Make an independent busbar for it. Use a deep cycle battery(as it is not there for starting, just play) And I would use a two wire system. No ground to chassis, ground to battery. I would not even let the electrons go to ground, only the negative side.
Remember electrons actually flow negative to positive. Conventional theory is just for simple understanding, and cause all the diagrams are written that way.
I even have thought of installing a 3rd battery to my 12 volt cruiser. It would charge on demand thru a solar charger, when I flicked the switch.
Then at night I could run light, dvd's for kids, music and more. With out the fear of not starting. When the battery was dead it is bedtime.
If I was to have a 24 volt vehicle.....IMOP.. cause I too like electric goodies. I would install a second alternator, A big ass 12 volt one. Make an independent busbar for it. Use a deep cycle battery(as it is not there for starting, just play) And I would use a two wire system. No ground to chassis, ground to battery. I would not even let the electrons go to ground, only the negative side.
Remember electrons actually flow negative to positive. Conventional theory is just for simple understanding, and cause all the diagrams are written that way.
I even have thought of installing a 3rd battery to my 12 volt cruiser. It would charge on demand thru a solar charger, when I flicked the switch.
Then at night I could run light, dvd's for kids, music and more. With out the fear of not starting. When the battery was dead it is bedtime.