24V regulator - is there a substitute? (1 Viewer)

[amaurer]

I think I need a regulator for my 85 BJ73. Its the external type.

Toyota wants $120, but is there a cheaper, maybe an IC, substitute?

 

[eleblanc]

You are lucky they still are available. Ask for one for a BJ42....

Google 24V regulator and you will find some. I did but cannot remember where, i would need to google again!

Sorry not much of help here!

 

[Doug384]

Take a look at this page to see if what you want, they have. Your auto electric, (alternator) dealer can get the model. You may have to cut the cabling or plug to patch it in but that is pretty simple.

Application Group

 

[danhr]

I installed an external IC regulator in BJ74 24V. Works great for 2 years now.

Before that, I bought the relay type ones from toyota and it failed every year. Wasted a lot of money.

The IC type costs ~ USD 20/- here locally. Very cheap too. The installation is simple since it matches the existing toyota regulator so takes about 5 minutes to install and no hacks! I'll take a pic and post later. If you can find that, buy it.

I bought two of these and now I think two is too many.

 

[amaurer]

I installed an external IC regulator in BJ74 24V. Works great for 2 years now.

Before that, I bought the relay type ones from toyota and it failed every year. Wasted a lot of money.

The IC type costs ~ USD 20/- here locally. Very cheap too. The installation is simple since it matches the existing toyota regulator so takes about 5 minutes to install and no hacks! I'll take a pic and post later. If you can find that, buy it.

I bought two of these and now I think two is too many.

Can you post up the manufacturer and part number for that regulator? Its impossible to find 24V stuff locally for me.

 

[amaurer]

Well, looks like it doesn't matter, I'm getting only a volt or two out of the alternator. s***.

 

[Doug384]

I don't know what your set up there is for the alternator. If the field is externally excited, then you will have no output from the unit if the regulator is failed. Usually the excitation current is supplied by the regulator via the brushes. Have you checked the brushes and slip ring connections yet?

 

[amaurer]

I don't know what your set up there is for the alternator. If the field is externally excited, then you will have no output from the unit if the regulator is failed. Usually the excitation current is supplied by the regulator via the brushes. Have you checked the brushes and slip ring connections yet?

Yes, I checked the brushes, they were fine.

I guess I didn't realize that the stator is responsible for generating the power, not the rotor, so I only took measurements at the brushes. Stupid. I can say for certain, however, that I'm getting a little over 26V at the positive brush with everything hooked up, which is proper.

I also pulled the regulator and did all the tests in the FSM... all fine.

EDIT:

So I've checked the wiring diagrams and, thankfully, the system is simple. Regulator tests good and I have proper power at the field coils. Unless there is a fuse out (will check), then the problem is in the wiring or inside the alt.

 

[Doug384]

Okay then you need to check for continuity of the field circuit to make sure that there is no open condition there. Without power through the field the stator will generate nothing. An ohmeter or test lamp will work. If there is an open circuit it may be due to a broken winding wire or termination or faulty slip ring connection. Now if you can identify the stator windings check those for continuity and similar resistances so that you know that none of the windings are shorted to ground or open circuited. There are 3 separate windings (three phase alternator) with all tied to a common ground on one side of each winding. Then if that is good you are probably looking at a failed, open or shorted diode bridge, rectifier. It is probably integral to the case of the alternator, sometimes on a plate or ring, sometimes as a unit that bolts to the end of the stator. Look where the stator windings output wires go as they terminate directly at the rectifier bridge assembly. The rectifier is usually replaceable and not expensive. In older alternators, diodes were individually fastened and could be removed to be replaced. If you are in over your head then a good auto electric shop will diagnose and repair for less than a rebuilt or new alternator.

 

[amaurer]

I didn't feel like dealing with it anymore, I just had the beastie rebuilt - $160.

 

[amaurer]

I love rebuilt stuff, its just like new... only cheaper! Works great, problem solved. Only took em 3 hours.

 

[danhr]

amaurer:

Please take a few more shots of the alternator. Besure to take shots of the vaccum pump. And if possible measure the size of the pully.

I know a tweak that might help you.

 

[danhr]

Also, post the markings. Does it mention amps?

 

[amaurer]

Upsetting: light is back on today.

I guess it must be some kinda intermittent regulator problem, maybe jostling it when I pulled it was enough to make it test OK??

 

[danhr]

amaurer:

I don't know much but the amount of issues I had with relay type regulators cannot be explained. It plays tricks.

A quick solution is to re calibrate the relay. But it won't last than few months. The points get eaten away.

 

[amaurer]

amaurer:

I don't know much but the amount of issues I had with relay type regulators cannot be explained. It plays tricks.

A quick solution is to re calibrate the relay. But it won't last than few months. The points get eaten away.

I believe it - it looked fine inside and tested out fine per the FSM procedure, even when the truck was not charging. Whacking the relay while the truck was running caused the charge light to flash.

New regulator en route.

 

[Eric Ramond]

Hi Danhr

I'm interested by your new regulator I have a 12ht engine and it seems to be the same régulator, as you know parts in France are quite expensive, can you give me more about the reference, the company where did you get it !! Thanks I appreciate
éric

 

[danhr]

Eric Ramond:

I bought this regulator post recession. I do not know their exact price now. A local shop has it and I suspect they are Chinese/Pakistani make. I am not able to find anything such online though. I'll post you the part number.

I usually do not buy chinese products but this by far has amazed me. It works better than original Toyota regulator by 1000 times. I recall I bought original Toyota regulator for more than USD 300/- a piece. So even if this regulator fails (which I doubt it ever will) I am still saving a lot.

PM me if you are interested.

 

[danhr]

You can see the picture of the Voltage Regulator in my former post. As said, this is a 6 wire IC VR that works in 24V BJ74 13B-T types. I am not sure if it works with other vehicles. You have to google the part number to verify that or something.

The markings on the VR:
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
VOLTAGE REGULATOR

TYPE AVR-512

27700-57040

NIPPONDENSO

026000-3890

24V 4G

SUPRA & CO.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

 

[Eric Ramond]

Hi danhr

Thanks for the answer I will chek on it this week end and let you know after
éric