24 volt removal -> new custom harness (1 Viewer)

[itchy355]

Somewhat successfully followed the 24 volt removal thread.

1; removed the 12/24 relay, deleting the whole second battery altogether for now (running a wire from LHD drivers main + to fusible links on other side; RHD battery not connected at all for now, planning to change that later)
2; added a new wire to starter, new wires to starting relay. Then I had to get a new wire from pin #2 (below) to starter switch as there apparently was something wrong earlier and the PO installed a starter button and a different relay (got rid of both). So pin #2 is disconnected (I reckon it ran to the 12/24 timing relay) and a fresh wire directly to starter relay is installed. But I don't think this should be a problem, because #2 & #10 wires are both off until put to start position...

3; Starting now works. The only thing that's left deliberately in non-working state is the heating system. I'm planning to add a button for that later. The truck runs normal, most of the dash lights work, only cabin fan is dead and the engine temperature doesn't read anything.

But now, sometime during this time I've managed to disable my both red lights (brake + tail). They don't work at all -- no power to the RL/RR/STOP lights fuses in the panel. My mechanic is 100% sure this was working before I started butchering the starting circuits, so heck, my fault.

- there is no power in either fuses -- rear left, rear right, stop
- the tail light relay works (took it out, measured, checked continuity when powered up) -- but it doesn't ,click' when the lights are on
- front lights, high beam, reverse lights, indicator in front/rear all work no problem.

Any help greatly appreciated!

 

[veiloctane]

is your fuseable link good?

 

[veiloctane]

is your fuseable link good?

old thread here of how i did my 24v starter to 12V starter conversion 24v starter conversion to 12v HDJ81 - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/24v-starter-conversion-to-12v-hdj81.864874/#post-14489598

 

[itchy355]

I've gone through your thread as well, don't worry, my electrician skills are maybe even negative, so I've read all I could)

I've had to replace the LHD fusible link with a new wire, because it broke when was unscrewing it. The RHD links (green and blue IIRC) are all connected directly to LHD battery positive now, through the former RHD battery positive cable that used to go to the 12/24 relay.

Now this is the situation around former 12/24 relay. I've tried to follow the other threads; connect everything to either positive or negative, bridge the remaining connector (two wires) with the single O-ring connector (single wire) together. I'm pretty sure those three are in fact ground, but heck.



Now this is ,mess' I've taken all the cables from under the fuse box so there's room. One of the cables is the ,connect the three wires together' 12/24 leftover, the others I've no idea about. The outlined part is crap from PO; several free wires, some clamped extensions, no clue. I'm pretty sure this was all because of the starting switch though. They probably tried to find the problem and just ended up going all around it with a different starter relay and a button on the dash. Also the car is made out of three different vehicles now so there's probably the reason, although the harnesses should be 1993 HZJ, so even less things should be there.


FWIW, I've tried to check continuity between tail light fuse and all empty wires I could've found and no good. Also on the other side.

This is the other side of the moon. Save from a single small connector and disconnected glow plugs it's all connected to LHD positive.



I'm thinking I must have disconnected some pretty important cable somewhere. The tail lights should work with no key in the switch, right?
Oh and when I was messing around under the dash, I might forgot to connect something too, but they were all buttons.. IDK. I remember having two outstanding connectors with no buttons to connect them to. No clue

Thanks for any input!

 

[veiloctane]

Tail lights will not work with out a switch and also signal lights will not work with out cluster and or hazard button or turn signal switch.

If you have a EU spec wire harness with rear fog lights and that switch is not there you will have to bypass it to complete the circuit this could also be why the rear lights don’t work at all

I had a similar issue with a 1HD-FTE also made from 3 different harnesses.

There is also a main ground for all the lights located in the kick panel. Held in my a single 10mm bolt.

 

[itchy355]

Ha, nice! I'll go check it out.

<15 minutes later..>
So. Turn signal and hazard works. Signal lights (is that the first rotary switch position when turning the lights on?) don't. Only full headlights do; but they're kind of hacked upon, because there are aftermarket HID lights. Fog lights don't work either. I took pictures of the switch (note the empty harness connector - I guess it's for a light elevation setting switch but it's not present. IDK. Also note the amount of pins vs the amount of female connectors in the harness.. IDK.


I've checked below the lower dash and found several unconnected things;



.. but they all seem non-OEM. There used to be a CB radio so it might be some leftovers

I'll check if the fog light switch is good but it seems okay..

 

[itchy355]

<going through the EWDs..> Now crap. Isn't this the 3rd FL?? And the MAIN connection is missing. Hell, I'm apparently stupid.

 

[itchy355]

So. Dug through the wiring remains from 24V, found a single blue fusible link that went to MAIN on the plastic covered terminal; the other one (GLOW) connected as well. There is apparently no connector for the round one; also it seems rather oxidized as if it never actually was connected .. anyway. Cabin heater worked for a while, then stopped. Tail/brake/signal lights still no go. Center and Rear locker works.

I've also tried connecting the round FL connector with a direct wire but still no go. I must still be missing something

 

[itchy355]

After all this hassle it was the relay that was faulty. IDK, must have died halfway through my attempts as I specifically checked it working. Replaced with a generic one (for the moment, I need to pass the state technical check up..). The brake light turned out to be the brake switch. There is no relay, just a switch; it was replaced with a different one by the PO and the makeshift harness popped out.

Fog lights still don't work but I'll pass without them for the moment. I suspect the relay also. Anyway they are not in the same circuit, thankfully.

Thanks for all the help!

 

[itchy355]

So, resurrecting this thread, because some things lead to other things and seasons change; frankly, I decided I've had it with this electrical mess. I'm fabricating a brand new harness.

Solutions:
- I've bought all new gauges from VDO (singleviu), because that way I don't have to mess with the flimsy and half broken old gauge cluster, finding out how to connect to it etc. Problem solved. I'll just have to attach the senders (speedo already works), I'm suspecting minor trouble with the tank gauge, but the resistivity values in the VDO gauge are rather similar, so it should be possible to adjust the factory sender's values so they work. I don't plan a tachometer gauge for now, neither the pyro; I might install them later. The position of the gauges have not been decided yet.
- I'll ditch the combination switch (lights/side indicators/wipers/washers) from the steering column and replace it with with a combination switch from a Tatra (see here). It fits the steering column diameter almost perfectly, I'll of course have to somehow adjust the plastic ,,sleeve'' but those are minor trouble. The connection is very simple, it also has a horn function. Windshield and rear window wipers & washers will be operated by a switch from a czech tractor on the dash. Windows are thankfully manual and I'll probably leave the rear view mirrors as they are, or buy the rather cheap manual ones from australian ebay..EDIT, yeah, placed the order, that will be the best option I guess. Hope the quality will be manageable.
- the heater is manual, so the only electrical thing is the fan speed, which I will most probably control via a PWM (pulse width modulator). I'll try to keep the original 4 way switch. If that happens to be too complicated, I'll salvage a heater resistor pack from a Jeep or something.
- ACC and IGN will be operated by simple paddle switches, same as the remaining things. Glow plugs will be push button operated, no timer. They're not needed very much in our country anyway.
- Starter relay will remain connected to the factory key switch as it already is. Nothing else.
- I've bought simple square indicator lights; I'll print the icons and install different colored lights for all my needs. I plan it to look somewhat like the classic land rover, all the indicators in a single square spot. There's not that many of them anyway (I'll ditch the PRND321 for example).
- Both plastic dash panels are gone, my good mechanic friend helped me fabricate a bent aluminum sheet instead of it; I'm halfway done with final fitting. Then I'll need to cut openings for the gauges, heater control, air vents, the lot. Slow progress but I'm quite happy with the looks. I'll probably cover it with some fabric after it's done, of course. I decided this will be much easier than trying to fit all different buttons and controls into the old dash..
- Diff locks will not work for now. I'll modify them to cable operated as soon as possible. Got the design pretty much figured but that's another story.
- my reverse lights don't work now either so I have to fabricate some kind of a simple switch to sense the position of the gear selector. I fixed/cleaned the factory gear position indicator switch but I dislike the way it works. I'll be happier with an onboard switch, instead of a dirty muddy something down there below the car.

So. I've drawn a very dull and ignorant EWD. Now I'm biting my tongue as what is entirely wrong, stupid or down right deadly (I definitely will carry a fire extinguisher, yeah). It's on my google drive.

Comments:

- sorry for the czech signs, I hope most of it is self explanatory, if not I'll translate for version 7.
- the diagram is a top view of the car; left side of the page is front of the car, top page side is passenger side etc. This is roughly how the wires will go on the vehicle. The center junction box will sit next to driver's legs (roughly the same spot as the old relay box). Harness will go from it to front and back, both on left side, then continuing to the right side accordingly. The second ,,box'' in the center is the dash with all the switches and indicator lights. The rear section includes output to the trailer socket.
- I am not yet decided about the location for fuses. I'd most gladly use the factory fuse box as it's very conveniently placed, OFC I need to adjust the EWD to that. The other option is to leave all the fuses in the main box, which would be simpler to wire but harder to service. Not sure yet.
- that being said, all the fuses are just placeholders for now. I have yet to calculate or copy the correct values. There might be some more needed.
- all negative (ground) connections will go through a wire (not the chassis), don't want to mess with rusty ground points
- two batteries, one (#1 on passenger's site) is for all accessories, #2 (driver's side) is only for starting. Both charged through a battery separator (? maybe a wrong word). That way I hope I'll always have at least one battery that will be able to start the truck (if #1 dies I can jump start myself from #2).
- phew. I'll add some photos later, but for now there's not much to capture

Thanks for any thoughts =)

 

[itchy355]

Moving forward rather slowly. But steadily.. This is what I've started with

... decided to cut out most of the internal plastic dash structure because there was simply not enough space and the thing was very wobbly and .. well. Bent & welded several metal holders, attached directly to the metal dash tube that runs through the vehicle; now it's super tight. Sorry for all the ,,wrong'' holes. It's sometimes a bit of a good ol' hit and miss. I'll cover it all up with black or dark grey vinyl anyway, so to hell with it.

And began cutting out openings for ,,stuff''..

.. decided the original HVAC outlets woudn't be easy to fit, so...

.. a friend had these laying around - - wanted to put them in his classic Mini build. They're out of a Yaris or Auris, so it's still stock mr. T

The car key ,,hole'' is not very ergonomic. The stock position is in a different angle and depth. Now I gotta decide either to drill a bigger hole, so you don't have to play doctor trying to start the truck up -- or I'll ditch the steering wheel lock (which I had to overcome anyway, because of presumably lost keys..d'oh..) and move the entire lock mechanism closer to the new dash. Not sure yet..

.. had to replace the original HVAC control cables, because they where *******'ing ONE inch too short...

... tomorrow I'll probably be able to put this heating thing together and start wrapping things up for the final harness manufacture. Scared s***less, but what the heck. Still undecided what place the main connection box will be. Probably somewhere around the current fuse box, because thanks to my cutting there's now plenty of space.