22R Head/Head gasket change

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C

Curse

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Aug 9, 2007
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24
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147
Location
Idaho
So I started leaking coolant into my oil, confirmed head gasket/cracked head. I also figure I'll replace my chain guides and chain + parts since they've gone through 300k miles.

Right now I have taken off my intake manifold (carb still attached), header, H2O pump, radiator etc, what I'm wondering is do you guys have any tips?

Thanks.
 
My tip is to leave the intake manifold attached to the head, pull it off as one unit. MUCH easier to remove the intake when the head is sitting on the bench.

But I guess I'm too late...

Don't forget that 12mm bolt at the very front of the head, hiding in the puddle of oil...
 
Curse said:
Tons of antifreeze in the oil mainly. ...
Click to expand...

It's also common for the chain guide to break, then the chain will wear a hole in the cover where the water passages are for the water pump, dumping coolant into the crankcase.
 
Tools R Us said:
It's also common for the chain guide to break, then the chain will wear a hole in the cover where the water passages are for the water pump, dumping coolant into the crankcase.
Click to expand...

That is very possible. I know my guides were 'loose' and they were still stock after 300k miles. I'll have the chain case open today, so lets pray the chain didn't eat through anything important.
 
Update. I have broken two 3/8's socket wrenches on this project so far, both in the same spot. The 19mm bolt at the crank shaft. I bought a 1/2 socket wrench w/ 19mm and 17mm sockets as well, and i haven't broken it thank god. I can't seem to get that bolt off though. When I've tried to use my starter to break it, it just engages for half a second then quits, and i have to pull out the 'Head' relay and put it back in.

Anyway, under the valve cover there are 10 Head bolts correct? All of them came out fine except for one, which sheared off at the threads at the bottom, am I screwed?

Also I noticed on the crank shaft bolt there are four 12mm bolts around it, which I took off after applying significant torque to the 19mm, and they were all sheared at the same spot. Did I fxxx up there too?

>.<
 
So you broke a head bolt? Once the head is off you may have another shot at getting it out.

And the 4 bolts around the crank bolt? Do you mean the small ones that are in the pulley that's on the crank? If so, those may not be a big deal....

As for the crank bolt, it needs to come out, maybe try heating it up with a torch, then try the starter trick.
 
So when you try to undo the Crank bolt, is the Crank turning at all? Have you got the Tranny and e-brake going to increase the resistance against your torque? Assuming yes since you're breaking sockets. I used a 1/2" breaker bar with 19mm impact socket and a long piece of pipe to extend my breaker bar about 3 feet. heated up the bolt a bit and POP!
 
Okay, I got a 1/2'' 19mm setup, and have tried it with a 3 foot breaker bar, and haven't gone to the limit of my strength, but I feel like I'm going to break something >.<

When I try to do the starter trick, all you hear is a fairly loud click then everything goes dead. No oil pressure light, no e-brake light, everything just turns off like I have no battery.
I pull out the 'Head' relay, plug back in, and i can try the starter trick again but it does the same thing, loud click then death.

Help? :(
 
Did you have any starting issues before this?

How's your + bat cable? Is it corroded at all? Good clean onnections?

I would wire up a toggle switch from the + bat to the small wire connection on the starter and bypass all the factory stuff, I do it when checking compression by myself, just a couple aligator clips and 5-6 feet of wire and a toggle switch. So you can run the starter from the front of the truck....
 
2ndGenToyotaFan said:
Did you have any starting issues before this?

How's your + bat cable? Is it corroded at all? Good clean onnections?

I would wire up a toggle switch from the + bat to the small wire connection on the starter and bypass all the factory stuff, I do it when checking compression by myself, just a couple aligator clips and 5-6 feet of wire and a toggle switch. So you can run the starter from the front of the truck....
Click to expand...

Thats a good idea. I have a brand new starter and a 2 month old battery >.<
 
2ndGenToyotaFan said:
If you're using the starter trick, you do not want the tranny in gear, that could turn out bad.
Click to expand...

X2

unless you're pushing the clutch pedal I suppose. Or if it's automatic it won't be a problem. Starter trick I have tried, but it never worked for me. Although I never had this same problem as you with having to pull the relay. Did something get disconnected that shouldn't have during you're initial unhooking of things?

Does it feel like the clutch is slipping at all when you're yanking on the breaker bar? Had that problem also, but had forgotten all about the crank bolt until the head was already off. Jammed a couple rags in each of the two center cylinders and re-installed the head without gasket or timing hooked up. Rags were compressed until they couldn't anymore and crank wouldn't turn. First try the bolt came loose.


WARNING: I have been told this could end up damaging(bending or cracking) something. You may want to consult others, but personally I had no problems.
 
Another method other than using the starter that has always worked for me: Use a 1/2 breaker bar and socket, have the truck faceing downward on just a slight hill like your driveway etc., put the bar/socket on the 19mm bolt with the handle resting on the top of the drivers side frame rail, roll the truck slightly in gear if you don't have direct contact between handle and frame, put the tranny in 5th gear, push in the clutch, roll about 5-10 feet and dump the clutch. Has always worked for me. Good luck!
 
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