22R Head/Head gasket change

[Curse]

Alrighty.

So, I finally got the crank case bolt off - I ended up having to buy a thicker 3' breaker bar, and use that in conjunction with my friend flooring the brakes Finally 'BAM' the bolt came off \o/

So I got the head off, everything there actually looks fine. The gasket seemed to be fine, no cracks in the head that I've seen (as of yet)

So I take off the timing chain cover and... well, the guides were in pieces. The tensioner had been partially eaten through, there are tracks on the driver's side of the cover where the chain had started to eat through. I'm guessing the chain probably ate through something to allow coolant to drain into my oil pan.

Due to time issues I haven't been able to explore further lately, but my friend and I are doing a clean up/overhaul on it and will determine the cause of the leakage >.<

 

[Tools R Us]

...
So I take off the timing chain cover and... well, the guides were in pieces. The tensioner had been partially eaten through, there are tracks on the driver's side of the cover where the chain had started to eat through. I'm guessing the chain probably ate through something to allow coolant to drain into my oil pan.

Due to time issues I haven't been able to explore further lately, but my friend and I are doing a clean up/overhaul on it and will determine the cause of the leakage >.<

If it’s still on, remove the water pump, inspect the coolant passages behind it. Most of the time this is where they wear through. A new cover is a fix, but tig welding up the “chain tracks” on your cover works well.

 

[big d 85 yota]

i had a head bolt shear off when doing mine too. i was able to drill a hole in it and get it out with a good easy out, the threads where thrashed though. i used i timesert to put new threads in it. dont use a helicoil!!! the only place i could fint a timesert kit was at a babating shop and a engine repair shop. good luck

 

[tntoyota]

Update. I have broken two 3/8's socket wrenches on this project so far, both in the same spot. The 19mm bolt at the crank shaft. I bought a 1/2 socket wrench w/ 19mm and 17mm sockets as well, and i haven't broken it thank god. I can't seem to get that bolt off though. When I've tried to use my starter to break it, it just engages for half a second then quits, and i have to pull out the 'Head' relay and put it back in.

Anyway, under the valve cover there are 10 Head bolts correct? All of them came out fine except for one, which sheared off at the threads at the bottom, am I screwed?

Also I noticed on the crank shaft bolt there are four 12mm bolts around it, which I took off after applying significant torque to the 19mm, and they were all sheared at the same spot. Did I **** up there too?

>.<

So you broke a head bolt? Once the head is off you may have another shot at getting it out.

And the 4 bolts around the crank bolt? Do you mean the small ones that are in the pulley that's on the crank? If so, those may not be a big deal....

As for the crank bolt, it needs to come out, maybe try heating it up with a torch, then try the starter trick.

So when you try to undo the Crank bolt, is the Crank turning at all? Have you got the Tranny and e-brake going to increase the resistance against your torque? Assuming yes since you're breaking sockets. I used a 1/2" breaker bar with 19mm impact socket and a long piece of pipe to extend my breaker bar about 3 feet. heated up the bolt a bit and POP!

If you're using the starter trick, you do not want the tranny in gear, that could turn out bad.

Okay, I got a 1/2'' 19mm setup, and have tried it with a 3 foot breaker bar, and haven't gone to the limit of my strength, but I feel like I'm going to break something >.<

When I try to do the starter trick, all you hear is a fairly loud click then everything goes dead. No oil pressure light, no e-brake light, everything just turns off like I have no battery.
I pull out the 'Head' relay, plug back in, and i can try the starter trick again but it does the same thing, loud click then death.

Help?

Did you have any starting issues before this?

How's your + bat cable? Is it corroded at all? Good clean onnections?

I would wire up a toggle switch from the + bat to the small wire connection on the starter and bypass all the factory stuff, I do it when checking compression by myself, just a couple aligator clips and 5-6 feet of wire and a toggle switch. So you can run the starter from the front of the truck....

X2

unless you're pushing the clutch pedal I suppose. Or if it's automatic it won't be a problem. Starter trick I have tried, but it never worked for me. Although I never had this same problem as you with having to pull the relay. Did something get disconnected that shouldn't have during you're initial unhooking of things?

Does it feel like the clutch is slipping at all when you're yanking on the breaker bar? Had that problem also, but had forgotten all about the crank bolt until the head was already off. Jammed a couple rags in each of the two center cylinders and re-installed the head without gasket or timing hooked up. Rags were compressed until they couldn't anymore and crank wouldn't turn. First try the bolt came loose.


WARNING: I have been told this could end up damaging(bending or cracking) something. You may want to consult others, but personally I had no problems.

Another method other than using the starter that has always worked for me: Use a 1/2 breaker bar and socket, have the truck faceing downward on just a slight hill like your driveway etc., put the bar/socket on the 19mm bolt with the handle resting on the top of the drivers side frame rail, roll the truck slightly in gear if you don't have direct contact between handle and frame, put the tranny in 5th gear, push in the clutch, roll about 5-10 feet and dump the clutch. Has always worked for me. Good luck!

Alrighty.

So, I finally got the crank case bolt off - I ended up having to buy a thicker 3' breaker bar, and use that in conjunction with my friend flooring the brakes Finally 'BAM' the bolt came off \o/

So I got the head off, everything there actually looks fine. The gasket seemed to be fine, no cracks in the head that I've seen (as of yet)

So I take off the timing chain cover and... well, the guides were in pieces. The tensioner had been partially eaten through, there are tracks on the driver's side of the cover where the chain had started to eat through. I'm guessing the chain probably ate through something to allow coolant to drain into my oil pan.

Due to time issues I haven't been able to explore further lately, but my friend and I are doing a clean up/overhaul on it and will determine the cause of the leakage >.<

How bout a damn impact on it!!!

I can see it now , a job!!


Sudden/shock torque is different than slow gradual!!

 

[Turbo Turtle]

No room unless the moter is out of the vehicle!

 

[Tools R Us]

How bout a damn impact on it!!!

I can see it now , a job!!


Sudden/shock torque is different than slow gradual!!

Some don't have acess to an impact and some spots there isn't room for one.

The breaker bar is positioned with the handle pointing down, the motor is turned by the starter building momentum, the handle impacts the frame transferring the impact force to the bolt, removing it. By definition removing by impact force, nothing “slow or gradual” about it, more like fast and violent.

I have used this method for years and have never been denied. That said a solid setup is better, I have a 3/4” breaker bar and socket, knocks them right off!

 

[Wildman]

With 300 on that motor and such poor maint as to let the guides wear through, I would be looking at the lower end REALY carefuly, if it has any bearings left they are wearing thin. Being soaked in coolent isnt all that good either

I have a motor I would sell CHEEP (depening on where you are shiping might kill the deal) if you wanted to dump it right in or build it. (140 K running now in doaner truck)

Would hate to see you put all this time/effort into something that will let go in the near future.

 

[Curse]

Thank you for the offer, wild, I live in Idaho

So the engine is all taken apart, I was able to get the crank shaft bolt off with a 3' breaker bar and a 1/2'' wrench.

I inspected the timing chain cover today, and sure enough, the reason coolant was leaking in was the chain eating through right behind the water pump housing.

Replacing that and all gaskets tomorrow, the only obstacle left is getting that damn broken head bolt out. I used my biggest easy-out bit and it wasn't quite doing it with my hammer drill, so i tried it with my impact driver........... not a good idea. Broke the bit right off.

I'm thinking I may have to get someone to weld on a piece of metal to the bolt and use that to torque it off, any other ideas?

 

[lonezuk]

Let it sit for a few hrs to days with rust eater on it a must.

Purchase a tool to remove bolts with rounded off heads that will fit.

Then slowly heat the bolt so it is warm, this is for the thermal properties of the different metals and just in case a thread locker was applied to the bolts in the past.

Try to see if it will break loose.

Have tried this method with success and once I had to slightly turn it clock wise as if to tighten it, then backed it out.

Before the tools were available to remove rounded off heads, folks using a grinder fashioned a crude bolt head and removed it.

As others have mentioned, the alloy threads can tear out if you are not careful and speedy serts must be used (machine shops use them for alloy blocks, especially the northstar engines).

Your last choice is to ditch the engine and replace it with one from a wreck due to the mileage.

No matter what, milkshake will destroy the bearings in the engine.

 

[Curse]

No progress today, still working out how to get that damn bolt out.

I'm going to start saving for a VW TDI Diesel swap methinks. Of course I'll also have to get a W56 tranny instead of my G52, but converting to a turbo diesel that gets much better mileage with more torque is always good.

Anyhow. Ty for the suggestions <3