Been building her for a couple months and waiting on warmer weather. Forged Titan 7 AK 0 wheels 18 x 8.5 et 35 with 295/70/18 Toyo Open Country AT3 (rubs at 3/4 turn with compression and full lock in reverse). I had Westcott link arms (to eliminate this) but the AVS freaked out and had to pay Lexus to recalibrate and they wouldn’t do it without putting the OEM link arms back on. I have since talked to Jeff at Westcott and have a better grasp of the install, so just need to try again and do it right. If you don’t it makes a mess. Roof rack and 20 degree sliders are also Westcott. Both require elaborate installs. Roof rack is headliner drop to remove the OEM rails. Sliders require unbolting and rebolting hardware from the frame rail. Needless to say the Westcott stuff is top notch quality but currently no instructions on anything as the products are new. Jeff is great, I was just impatient. Happy to assist others with any questions. Happy how it turned out.
2025 White Overland Build
- Thread starter J310
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Wind noise from the roof rack is minimal based on its low profile design, but the moon roof is single pane so it is relative. I have had my seal replaced and it is still loud for a moon roof of a car of this price point. My only major complaint about the LX excluding the fact they should be 2 rows by default.
As far as the link arms it does adjust up just like advertised. The issues are they are only 3 degrees different to get the lift, which means when you remove them, if the link bolt gets adjusted at all the system needs to be recalibrated. Jeff suggested, unplugging the sensor, removing the assembly from the mount and then replacing the link arms on a work bench where you can be extra careful in removal. I did mine while on the vehicle and turned the mount slightly enough to shift the voltages (how it senses height) that made the system over compensate and not work properly. There is a good video of a Tundra’s rear link arm install from Westcott that gives the detail on how the mounting works. It is really over complicated for no reason.
I have not done it again as it cost me $360 to have the system reset by Lexus. And I couldn’t convince them to leave the arms on while calibrating, so I am a little shy to try again. I do need to do it to help with some of my rubbing.
Interesting on the brackets and good to know. I'm interested to hear how the ride is affected once you get them in/calibrated.
I'm also interested in potentially adjusting the rear, if possible, to preserve some of the factory rake. I prefer that look over a completely leveled profile.
Talk to us about the sliders too. Are they frame mounted?
I would s*** my pants if I had to drop the headliner in any car, let alone a brand new six figures one. Bravo to you.
It is amazing how complex this AHC/AVS system is. I am just glad it is robust and reliable enough, so I have no plans to play with it. For comparison, in the past I owned an LR Defender and the air suspension uses similar links. So, to get an extra lift, you can replace the links with shorter ones and that will give you 1 or 2 inches extra in every ride height. The LR system however is pretty simple and the only thing you have to do is turn the car off, pull out the OEM links and install the aftermarket ones and, voila, the system is tricked and you have your lift. That said, the LR air suspension is much more simplistic and not even close in terms of reliability and comfort when compared to the LX system. Needless to say, I prefer the LX's.
White looks so good. If I ever trade my truck in I may do white to match my hundy.
Don't forget to log your fitment here: 300 Series Wheel and Tire Fitment Database
- Regarding the links, the factory links can be adjusted to net about 1" or so lift in normal mode. You can then also use techstream to do an AHC offset adjustment as appropriate or to fine tune the height of each corner. I personally do not see the value in the westcott links.
- What are you rubbing on? Upper control arm? If it's the fender liner or the mudflap, those can be heat molded/trimmed to eliminate it. I'd also consider a pair of the Perry Parts front bump stops to manage upper fender liner contact. I do not recommend the rears at this time (I'll detail more in a separate post).
- Can you share some photos of how the sliders are mounted? I'm interested in comparing the mounting to Slee's.
Don't forget to log your fitment here: 300 Series Wheel and Tire Fitment Database
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- #9
On adjusting the factory link arms do you just drop it to the lowest part of the arm? That is simple enough to do or do need to do the computer stuff too?
Below are the two rubbing spots. The fender vents and the rear liner.
Here are some pics of the mounting of the sliders.
Below are the two rubbing spots. The fender vents and the rear liner.
Here are some pics of the mounting of the sliders.
Are there any additional attachment points to the frame beyond what you show?
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- #11
Yes there is a third one in the back, the pictures are front and the middle.
I am no engineer, but those connecting points seem to be dangerously close to the edge of those plates - though I am not sure what they are holding with such close-up shots.
The Titan7 wheels 
And they look tiny.