2019 tundra lug nuts? (3 Viewers)

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North Carolina, USA
After 5 days of torrential rains and having to drive 3 to 6 miles a day on flooded dirt roads, my right front caliper stopped retracting properly and all of the backing material wore off the brake pad and I have metal on metal cutting into the rotor..........
... Bought a new rotor and a new set of brake pads. I hope it was the piston being pushed out so far was causing it to jam a bit I was in hopes to clean it put new pads in new rotor have it be okay......
Of all the things to stop forward progress I cannot remove the lug bolts. I've had this truck for about 6 weeks. It had aftermarket rims when I bought it. It has some stupid looking 12-point Star bolt instead of a standard lug bolt or even better lug nut. There is also not enough room between the bolt head and the rim for impact grade sockets. It almost looks like somebody may have put wheel spacers on to accommodate these rims but I'm not sure. The factory lug wrench does not work. O'Reilly Auto parts doesn't have a socket that fits.
Anyone have this type of bolt on their truck?

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If you can't get a standard 12 point socket on it then it's likely a security lug nut and it has a special socket.
 
StealthCustomSeries uses a lug nuts very much like that. Post a pic of the wheel.
Someone can identify it right away I expect. Looks like my lug nuts
Ya bought a truck without lug nut socket?
 
I'm going to ride into town to the parts store here in a few minutes I will post a picture of the wheel in case I'm unsuccessful. I've known of people putting a special locking nut that requires a special socket one on each wheel, but never seen or heard of them using anything like that for every single bolt.

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DX4 Wheels contact them directly and ask if they require special nuts. They have a very tight
opening, doesn't look like a conventional acorn nut would fit. Certainly not flat washer factory
alloy wheel nuts

 
PS. Did you look carefully in then glove box for the socket? Or in the toolkit behind the seats?
Just find it hard to imagine the previous owner not leaving lug nut socket in the truck. Christ, I’m so
paranoid I carry two of them all the time.
 
Thankyou all for your help and suggestions! Figured it out today at autozone. I was able to try metric and standard 12pt sockets which didn't work. 6 and 7 spline lug nut keys which didn't work. I went out and counted the splines/points and it turns out it is a 10pt/10spline lug nut. They had a $50 spline lug nut key kit that had every type. Had to buy that to get the 10 spline key which works. I will try to see if there is clearance for some type of normal lug nut and socket. There are some "long lug nuts" that might allow the nut to stick out past the rim and work. I don't like being handicapped by rare lug nuts requiring a special socket.
Of other note after 10-15" of rain from Hurricane Deby dirt roads here are quite sloppy. I'm impressed with how well the ATRAC system works on the 19'Tundra. It's not as good as the lock right lunchbox type I put in my older Tundra, but adequately much better than an open diff and faster to activate than traction control systems on older vehicles.
 
PS. Did you look carefully in then glove box for the socket? Or in the toolkit behind the seats?
Just find it hard to imagine the previous owner not leaving lug nut socket in the truck. Christ, I’m so
paranoid I carry two of them all the time.
I went as far as calling the guy I bought the truck from to see if he ever had one in the truck. I just posted I found the solution. I don't have to worry about rim/wheel theft where I am. I will replace with some normal nuts If I can.
 
There was zero pad material left on the pads. It was metal backing plate on the rotor. After starting again it would drag for a bit before pushing off. I'm going to pull the pistons from the caliper and clean them a bit before reinstalling and bleeding the brakes. If a new caliper was $50 instead of $120+ I'd just buy a new one. I'll try to clean/bleed and reuse this one for now. If it drags with new pads after I'll order one online.
 
There was zero pad material left on the pads. It was metal backing plate on the rotor. After starting again it would drag for a bit before pushing off. I'm going to pull the pistons from the caliper and clean them a bit before reinstalling and bleeding the brakes. If a new caliper was $50 instead of $120+ I'd just buy a new one. I'll try to clean/bleed and reuse this one for now. If it drags with new pads after I'll order one online.
You should post pics of pads that have been subjected to extended soaking! Be a lesson to us all not to mention cautionary tale.
I find it weird that they separated but again, pretty extreme what they just went thru
Personally when it comes to brake components I ask 'What are the absolute best you have'. My 2010 had brakes done just prior to
purchase and rotors are failing at 3500 miles. Chipping and wear thru so I can see the rib welds!!!
 
You should post pics of pads that have been subjected to extended soaking! Be a lesson to us all not to mention cautionary tale.
I find it weird that they separated but again, pretty extreme what they just went thru
Personally when it comes to brake components I ask 'What are the absolute best you have'. My 2010 had brakes done just prior to
purchase and rotors are failing at 3500 miles. Chipping and wear thru so I can see the rib welds!!!
I'm not going to say "they seperated", but there was absolutely zero pad material left. Only the steel backing plates. Truck has 117K and the pads were original OEM Toyota so perhaps they had never been changed and the last 5 days of wet sand saturation did them in. I bled the brakes putting in new dot4. The old fluid was black and had some moisture in the Caliper............One of the rotors was trashed beyond turning so I put 1 new rotor on. The other was still smooth so I just put on the pads and we'll see how it goes.............Of note you can swap in new pads without taking off the caliper. You just use 2X wood wedges and a hammer driving wedges between the old pads and rotor to compress the caliper pistons completely. After doing it once or twice it's probably less than 10 Minutes per wheel.........................I'll do the back soon.
 
You will likely find out that these Tundras are BRUTAL on brakes. I’ve never warped a set of rotors in my previous 40 years of driving, but have warped 2 sets in 2 years on my ‘19 Tundra. Between that and 7.8 MPG while towing a 2,000 lb aerodynamic trailer, these trucks are fun, but expensive to own!
 
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I got “brake checked” in my 15 with a 3K pound trailer. Can’t believe how well it stopped. Then he tried it again. Dummy.

I have a dash cam now too.
 
You will likely find out that these Tundras are BRUTAL on brakes. I’ve never warped a set of rotors in my previous 40 years of driving, but have warped 2 sets in 2 years on my ‘19 Tundra. Between that and 7.8 MPG while towing a 2,000 lb aerodynamic trailer, these trucks are fun, Ut expensive to own!
The radar adaptive cruise control and traction control make extensive use of the brakes compared to not having those systems.
 
The radar adaptive cruise control and traction control make extensive use of the brakes compared to not having those systems.
And those systems are only a factor if you use them. I’ve never had a vehicle warp rotors as quickly as this truck does, and I have a half dozen actual people I know with Tundras having similar experiences.
 
And those systems are only a factor if you use them. I’ve never had a vehicle warp rotors as quickly as this truck does, and I have a half dozen actual people I know with Tundras having similar experiences.
I don't know what the cause would be. I've never had a truck go down to the metal, but mine did get 115K on the original pads. ???
 
I don't know what the cause would be. I've never had a truck go down to the metal, but mine did get 115K on the original pads. ???
That’s very impressive. I’ve been through two sets in the last 30,000. I tow a lot, and drive fast (relatively), but none of my other trucks have eaten brakes like this Tundra.
 
That’s very impressive. I’ve been through two sets in the last 30,000. I tow a lot, and drive fast (relatively), but none of my other trucks have eaten brakes like this Tundra.
Only reason I say they were original is because they were OEM stamped Toyota. It's possible a previous owner took it to the dealer for new brakes.
 
I’m going to say very likely.
 

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