2016+ Rear Screen Removal

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Tutorial on removing the rear seat screens on 2016+ Land Cruisers. It’s a 1 banana job and can be completed in about 20 minutes.

I used the @TrekboxX covers to complete the job.

Tools needed:
  • Flathead screwdriver
  • 10mm socket wrench
  • Hex screwdriver
First remove the back plate. There are three clips that are released by pushing up and out. Go slowly and use a flat head screwdriver or a plastic shim.
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There are three (3) 10mm nuts holding the screen to the seat back.

Use a socket wrench to release all three. You will reuse them later. The screen should self-support for the next step.

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Next remove the two (2) power/data clips.

The release points are in the back. I found it easier to pull the screen out and while supporting it, to let the screen fall forward to allow access.

A flathead screwdriver will help release the clip.

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If using the @TrekboxX covers, insert the provided brackets and use the 10mm nuts from the earlier step.

I found that I needed to adjust a few times before I found the best position for each to match the cover holes.

Once you’ve lined up the brackets, tighten and then install the covers.

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It’s great to have photos of the electrical connectors. Those are diabolical in their clip design and are sometimes the most time-consuming part of otherwise simple projects.
 
It's been a while since this was posted. Would you do it any differently today? I notice that in an LX the seatbacks are leather covered; that trexbox might look a bit out of place. Also wondering since they've been removed from the factory now if there would be anyway to cost-effectively use some OEM part to cover up the holes?
 
would it be possible to use the existing power behind there to instal usb chargers?
 
would it be possible to use the existing power behind there to instal usb chargers?
It’s possible I’m sure to create a harness that only fed power to a USB port. I haven’t done that however.

There is the 12v plug on the rear of the center console; I’d assume that would be easier to use.
 
It's been a while since this was posted. Would you do it any differently today? I notice that in an LX the seatbacks are leather covered; that trexbox might look a bit out of place. Also wondering since they've been removed from the factory now if there would be anyway to cost-effectively use some OEM part to cover up the holes?
Sorry for the delayed response.

I wouldn’t change/update the instructions. I have reinstalled and removed the screens a few times now. I did mark with permanent pen the outline of the new brackets and labeled the brackets once I had everything aligned to make reinstallation easier.

It would be easy to wrap the covers in leather, vinyl, or paint them for a more finished look.

The non-RES seats have a solid back so there is no OEM cover plate. I’ve never noticed them looking out of place.
 
It's been a while since this was posted. Would you do it any differently today? I notice that in an LX the seatbacks are leather covered; that trexbox might look a bit out of place. Also wondering since they've been removed from the factory now if there would be anyway to cost-effectively use some OEM part to cover up the holes?

Don't have anything to add to instructions from @Sac Cerevisiae.

However, if you want a more OEM look (and don't worry too much about the cost) an auto upholstery shop could stuff in a bit of foam and replace the rear vinyl part of the seat cover for a smoother look.

I used the @TrekboxX covers on my old 2017. Then pulled them off and replaced the monitors before trading in for a 2020 HE. The covers are handy if you don't think the truck will be a long-term ownership thing. With my upholstery shop fix any dealer will likely pull the VIN sheet and wonder where the monitors went.
 
It’s possible I’m sure to create a harness that only fed power to a USB port. I haven’t done that however.

There is the 12v plug on the rear of the center console; I’d assume that would be easier to use.
I've played around quite a bit in that space to see if I could get a USB receptacle installed for the iPads. There just isn't enough room for receptacles sold now. In addition, the wires to the plugs are TINY. It would have to be the lowest power USB to avoid overheating, IMHO. I still have a spare cover to mess with if I ever find a super shallow USB receptacle I'll attempt a fit and find the 12V wire.
 
Harness / Electrical connector. If I can later, I’ll see how many pins it has and the rough size to assist in the internet search.
It is possible to find the connector on-line. I did a couple years ago but for some dumb reason I didn't write down the information. Oh well. What I found was aftermarket, not OEM.
 
It is possible to find the connector on-line. I did a couple years ago but for some dumb reason I didn't write down the information. Oh well. What I found was aftermarket, not OEM.
I looked a bit online last night but didn’t locate it. I’ll keep looking and will update the OP with the info.
 
Great how to. Thanks to this post, removal was a 10 minute, one banana, job. Thank you @Sac Cerevisiae .
 
Oops ... well that sucked. Install went great, but noticed the brackets behind the plate were still visible from the sides. Applied some gentle "massaging" pressure to the plate to try to coax it forward in hopes of making it a little more flush with the back of the seat, and SNAP. Catastrophic failure. Would be nice to get some kind of machined metal plates for $200 instead of fairly brittle plastic but beggars can't be choosers. Be careful!

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Bummer. I also had to tweak the positioning of mine to get them where I wanted them, but fortunately did not have any damage. I wonder if Trekboxx would be willing to help you out at all with a discounted replacement?
 

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