2015 LC Dash Screen Will Not Come On - Totally Stumped (1 Viewer)

[jasonkoko]

A code reader is $20 or less at your local auto parts store. Almost all the stores will also loan you a more advanced $200 version if you ask at the counter.

None of those plugs look like the FSM plug pictured, which isn't too surprising, There are many regions and models and nav/non nav too. I'll look for one of the two white plugs pictured. I suspect it is the smaller, 10 pin, just need to figure out which pin.

You'll need a voltmeter to test voltage. These are also around $20 at your local walmart, target, hardware, or auto parts store.

I bought a ScanGauge - figure I'd use it again someday...

I have a voltmeter that I'm semi-familiar with using.

Thanks so much for your help.

 

[grinchy]

Well. the television display is the rear screen. the front screen is the 'multi-display assembly'.
Is the video above describing this diagnostic mode? This is step two in the 'black screen' diagnosis.

I'm following thru the steps and will post up the next likely relevant ones.

ALl these strongly suggest clearing DTC before getting started, so put that scangauge to work!

 

[grinchy]

Here are all the black screen steps . . .

 

[grinchy]

step 1 - make sure the 'screen off' setting is not selected. I assume you've done this.
Step 2 - posted mode above, if the screen comes on we can print out the rest of those steps and resolve
step 3 - av visual mute (attached)

 

[grinchy]

step 4 - display signal circuit check (attached)

 

[grinchy]

Step 5 - Hard Disc - though it doesn't say what to do after removing it . . .

 

[grinchy]

Step 6 is remove the multi-display
Step 7 is remove the rest of the AV stack.
you've already done this. there aren't any troubleshooting involved in these steps.

I guess after the GVIF (step 4) it is start replacing stuff . . .

The FSM is available as an .iso on another thread if you'd like to start the download

 

[jasonkoko]

A code reader is $20 or less at your local auto parts store. Almost all the stores will also loan you a more advanced $200 version if you ask at the counter.

None of those plugs look like the FSM plug pictured, which isn't too surprising, There are many regions and models and nav/non nav too. I'll look for one of the two white plugs pictured. I suspect it is the smaller, 10 pin, just need to figure out which pin.

You'll need a voltmeter to test voltage. These are also around $20 at your local walmart, target, hardware, or auto parts store.

I just bought a scanner - I'll pull the codes when it comes in...

Thanks for helping and looking into this.

I do have a voltmeter and am reasonably familiar with how to use it.

 

[grinchy]

Here's the full info on entering diagnostics mode, and the full procedure for step 2.

*EDIT - Software error history is step 10 in the 'operation check'. It requires techstream (Dealer service tool, though it is available for some $ and a host computer if you want it). It looks to me like it just says, you borked it, record the error and buy a new multi-display. Maybe I'm reading it wrong.*

 

[grinchy]

I just bought a scanner - I'll pull the codes when it comes in...

Thanks for helping and looking into this.

I do have a voltmeter and am reasonably familiar with how to use it.

good. I hope that the DTC can direct to further troubleshooting. the Non DTC options are all pretty grim.

 

[Sandroad]

2015 LC HVAC head unit and dash controls were dead, but easily repaired

In Albuquerque, I took my Land Crusier to RNS Auto an independent mechanic highly recommended by Toyota Land Cruiser folks. The owner/manager checked it all out in the parking lot--fuses were fine, heater, fan, and air conditioning could all be run off his computer while the computer was...

forum.ih8mud.com

NOTE: The jumper mentioned is NOT between the positive and negative posts of the battery. It's between the positive cable and negative cable AFTER disconnecting from the battery.

 

[chefski]

Try turning the cool box on. It won’t solve your display issue but will likely turn the A/C compressor on.

 

[bloc]

I doubt most generic code readers will handle the Nav unit DTCs.. you may need to find someone with techstream. I'm sure someone in your area has a working system, maybe look into the clubhouse section.

Also do we know what elements of the stock Nav/Climate system must remain when using the android units? Some of it must stay... there's no way the android units handle the PID/temp control and blend door servo controls. Point is, depending on what has failed here, it's possible even one of those may not address the issue.

@jasonkoko PM Linuxgod for a factory service manual. The troubleshooting steps in there may help, even though grinchy has already listed most of them. Invaluable resource.

Try turning the cool box on. It won’t solve your display issue but will likely turn the A/C compressor on.

Good idea!

 

[CT3]

A couple of other ideas:

• What happens if you add a CD/DVD into the drive?
• Can you toggle between media modes on the steering wheel still?
• What about the dimming knob that allows you to adjust cluster and screen brightness?

 

[jasonkoko]

A code reader is $20 or less at your local auto parts store. Almost all the stores will also loan you a more advanced $200 version if you ask at the counter.

None of those plugs look like the FSM plug pictured, which isn't too surprising, There are many regions and models and nav/non nav too. I'll look for one of the two white plugs pictured. I suspect it is the smaller, 10 pin, just need to figure out which pin.

You'll need a voltmeter to test voltage. These are also around $20 at your local walmart, target, hardware, or auto parts store.

Ok - ScanGauge came in, I tried to pull codes and it said there were no DTC's or "pending" DTC's.

 

[grinchy]

As @bloc said above, that may be because it can't see all the ECUs, but let's take if for face value for now and move on to the next step.

That is the diagnostic menu. If holding the button and flipping the light switch as indicated brings up the screen, then we can rule out a dead screen. If not, it probably is a dead screen.

 

[Skeet]

When I pulled the fuse in the passenger kick panel for the rear entertainment, my screen would go dark. Have you checked that fuse?

 

[jasonkoko]

Try turning the cool box on. It won’t solve your display issue but will likely turn the A/C compressor on.

I tried this as well - doesn't make the air any cooler unfortunately.

 

[jasonkoko]

2015 LC HVAC head unit and dash controls were dead, but easily repaired

In Albuquerque, I took my Land Crusier to RNS Auto an independent mechanic highly recommended by Toyota Land Cruiser folks. The owner/manager checked it all out in the parking lot--fuses were fine, heater, fan, and air conditioning could all be run off his computer while the computer was...

forum.ih8mud.com

NOTE: The jumper mentioned is NOT between the positive and negative posts of the battery. It's between the positive cable and negative cable AFTER disconnecting from the battery.

This is an interesting idea... tried it to no avail. Same result - no display.

 

[jasonkoko]

I doubt most generic code readers will handle the Nav unit DTCs.. you may need to find someone with techstream. I'm sure someone in your area has a working system, maybe look into the clubhouse section.

Also do we know what elements of the stock Nav/Climate system must remain when using the android units? Some of it must stay... there's no way the android units handle the PID/temp control and blend door servo controls. Point is, depending on what has failed here, it's possible even one of those may not address the issue.

@jasonkoko PM Linuxgod for a factory service manual. The troubleshooting steps in there may help, even though grinchy has already listed most of them. Invaluable resource.



Good idea!

I hear you on that... I'll likely run it up to the local auto parts store and see if they can pull any codes on a more advanced unit.