2013 LX570...Should I or Shouldn't I (1 Viewer)

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While test driving the vehicle I was unable to get the crawl control to engage. I would place the vehicle in 4L and then in Drive before hitting the crawl control button. The display kept saying the vehicle had to be in "D" or "R" to engage even though I was already in drive. Also, the vehicle is beeping non stop while in 4L. I've been trying research what might be causing this (operator error vs. issue with the vehicle itself) but I'm not having much luck.
Beeping in 4L is an indication that it’s not engaged. Does it actually feel like it is?
 
While test driving the vehicle I was unable to get the crawl control to engage. I would place the vehicle in 4L and then in Drive before hitting the crawl control button. The display kept saying the vehicle had to be in "D" or "R" to engage even though I was already in drive. Also, the vehicle is beeping non stop while in 4L. I've been trying research what might be causing this (operator error vs. issue with the vehicle itself) but I'm not having much luck.


First thing Is to ensure that you are in neutral when you switch to 4lo. If, while in neutral, you push the button down and move the switch into 4lo position, it may take a few seconds, but you should here the actuator and then you should see the dash lights indicating that you are in 4lo. Only then should you switch to Drive or Reverse.

If you were in neutral and moved the switch to 4lo and then engaged Drive and it was still beeping, then it sounds like it might be the actuator. It’s possible that 4lo has never been engaged before. There are a few threads on here about this issue. A couple of things you can try:

- ensure that the truck has been running and is warmed up before engaging 4lo
- try to engage 4lo and have somebody outside the truck listen for the actuator
- try to drive around with 4lo engaged
- engage 4lo and the turn the truck off for a minute and then back on again

I wouldn’t fool around with CC until you are certain that 4lo is actually engaging. My money is on a stuck actuator due to lack of use. Once the actuator is working, everything else will be fine, although you are likely to have a similar issue with the center diff. For sure, if 4lo hasn’t been used much, then the center diff lock has not been used and the actuator is probably going to be stuck as well.

I experienced both of these issues when I bought my truck but once the actuators started working, I never had issues again. While I don’t use the center diff lock very much in practice, I still engage it every now and then when I am on dirt or gravel just to prevent it from sticking again.


edit - Sorry, forgot that you said you had a 100 before so you probably know to put it in neutral first.
 
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Update. Radiator checked out...no visible cracks whatsoever. The engine cover is a nuisance though...removal may be my 1st mod. Overcame the 4lo issued...operator error being the culprit. Minus a few cosmetic issues that warranted further discussion with the dealer everything checked. So...we welcomed a new member to the family...Black 2013 LX 570 with brown interior. Pics to follow.
 
Update. Radiator checked out...no visible cracks whatsoever. The engine cover is a nuisance though...removal may be my 1st mod.

May be worth knowing that there are functional reasons for the cover as it's not only cosmetic. At least the very forward portion between the grill and radiator support is important.

- At speed, directs airflow through the radiator, rather than above and around
- At low speeds, prevents the radiator drawing and circulating hot air from the engine bay
- Functions as noise dampers

I use to hate the covers too for as much as I'm under there tinkering. Once you get over it, removing it is really a cinch and about a minutes effort. Get a nice plastic or metal pry and it will take all the frustration out of it.

Amazon product ASIN B074VR3ZDS
 
Update. Radiator checked out...no visible cracks whatsoever. The engine cover is a nuisance though...removal may be my 1st mod. Overcame the 4lo issued...operator error being the culprit. Minus a few cosmetic issues that warranted further discussion with the dealer everything checked. So...we welcomed a new member to the family...Black 2013 LX 570 with brown interior. Pics to follow.

Awesome - Congrats.

You should throw some pics up in the Official LX570 Pics thread:


Also, I replaced all of the screw-in clips on my engine cover with push-button ones and keep a little clip tool handy. It makes it much less painful.

I think an enterprising person could rig a setup with hinges and cable where the cover would lift with the hood.
 
Update. Radiator checked out...no visible cracks whatsoever. The engine cover is a nuisance though...removal may be my 1st mod. Overcame the 4lo issued...operator error being the culprit. Minus a few cosmetic issues that warranted further discussion with the dealer everything checked. So...we welcomed a new member to the family...Black 2013 LX 570 with brown interior. Pics to follow.
Congratulations and welcome to the 200 club.
 
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Update. Radiator checked out...no visible cracks whatsoever. The engine cover is a nuisance though...removal may be my 1st mod. Overcame the 4lo issued...operator error being the culprit. Minus a few cosmetic issues that warranted further discussion with the dealer everything checked. So...we welcomed a new member to the family...Black 2013 LX 570 with brown interior. Pics to follow.
Nice! Congrats..

And what Teckis said about the engine covers. The one actually on the intake manifold does a mediocre job of keeping dirt and mud off the engine. The one along the top of the core support is necessary for proper cooling and intake air temps. My friend bought a 13LX like yours and cut the side panels behind the core support to air maintenance easier, then cut the center panel to match. Still not as clean as the cruiser panels but much better than stock. We had similar mileage and his was WAY dirtier under those panels because no one was ever looking at them.
 

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