2013 107K Radiator, Starter, Water Pump - Long Term - Repair & Process Advice

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Joined
Mar 20, 2006
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Location
El Dorado Hills, CA
Hello!

My radiator just busted and I'm posting to get some guidance. My 2013 LC has 107k miles, I purchased it CPO, and at the time I also purchased the Toyota certified Platinum warranty which should have me covered for the radiator repair as it goes though 131k miles and July 2022. At least, I hope it does.

At the same time as getting this radiator issue resolved, I hoping to also knock out some well known preventative maintenance, such as the water pump and I'm also thinking the starter.

I want to keep this LC for at least 10 more years, so my view is get things taken care of right. I know many of you share this sentiment.

I've done a bit research, not sure I'm on the right path, but here are some parts I'm expecting to be included in this work:
1586038207665.png

(prices and Part #s from Olathe Toyota)

Recommended from the group:
+ Spark Plugs

So my questions for you all are:
  • Do I have the right list of maintenance items considered? Anything missing?
  • Any parts I'm missing?
  • Should I expect my Toyota Platinum warranty to cover my radiator repair?
  • What should I expect a dealer to charge for the above lot of work? Would a dealer likely be agreeable to taking the warranty reimbursement for the radiator, and since they are in there, can I negotiate reduced labor costs for the remainder of the work?
I would really like to be well informed, get all necessary maintenance knocked out, and not pay too much in the process.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks so much!

radiator picture:

IMG_5778.JPG
 
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You may need to read the terms of your warranty to be sure. My platinum warranty was 7 years or 100k miles, whichever came first...
 
I would add serpentine belt tensioner and spark plugs.
 
I'm not really happy about our radiators only lasting a hundred thousand miles or so..I'm at that point as well. First thing I'm going to do is find out if there's a better alternative as far as radiators go. Back in the day you could get a good Copper Brass combo radiator that would last for a long time and you could have it repaired if need be apparently those days are over so we're left to deal with plastic tanks and aluminum... same thing happened recently with my Excursion but I bought an aftermarket radiator that does not have plastic tanks on it .. I don't know if there's anything available for the Land Cruiser but I'll be looking
 
I'm not really happy about our radiators only lasting a hundred thousand miles or so..I'm at that point as well. First thing I'm going to do is find out if there's a better alternative as far as radiators go. Back in the day you could get a good Copper Brass combo radiator that would last for a long time and you could have it repaired if need be apparently those days are over so we're left to deal with plastic tanks and aluminum... same thing happened recently with my Excursion but I bought an aftermarket radiator that does not have plastic tanks on it .. I don't know if there's anything available for the Land Cruiser but I'll be looking

Nothing for a 200 series. Not in Japan, not in Australia, not in South Africa, not here. This is a complaint that a lot of gear heads have no matter the vehicles make or model. Copper/Brass is expensive. It is heavy. Plastic/aluminum is cheap, light weight, runs at a higher pressure so less fluid is needed = less weight. Less fluid is less weight which means better fuel efficiency. And the materials are cheaper. So every manufacturer just switched over to plastic on the outside aluminum on the inside. They all know that this combo will break sooner than a copper/brass. The engine designs are for a thin plastic radiator in modern vehicles. Even if you want to make an all metal radiator the space inside is not there for the size it would have to be for equal cooling efficiency.
 
2013 damn, I thought this was more of an issue on 2008-2010...I guess not. I inspected my radiator (2011 LX with 105k miles) no sign of cracking in that area yet.
I saw posts that you need to check your KDSS valve, they might be rusted shut and should be covered by warranty.
 
I just ordered a bunch of parts to fix my radiator and engine valley coolant leak. Your list looks pretty good, couple of comments.

I don't think you need 16326-38010 it should come with 16031-0S010
I don't think you need 16271-38020 it should come with 16000-09491

I don't think you need 16371-38010 (pulley) but rather the fan bracket assembly that it connects to (16380-0S010). I think the pulley can be re-used but could be wrong.

In addition to your list I also had these parts (optional means I will inspect and replace only if needed):


96761-35035 Engine Coolant Pipe O-Ring (2)
17171-0S030 Gasket, Manifold (2)
00272-SLLC2 Toyota SLL coolant (5, or 4 if only doing drain and refill and not complete flush)
90466-A0026 Clamp (1)
90467-43002 Clamp (1)
16282-0S030 Bypass Hose (1)
08826-00100 Three-Bond 1282B seal packing (1)

Optional
16620-0S012 Serpentine Tensioner (1)
16603-38011 Serpentine Idler Pulley (1)
16380-0S010 Bracket Assy, Fan (1)
32943-60790 Trans Oil Cooler Inlet/Outlet Hose (2)


Also, you may want to change your screenshot to text so it is searchable.
 
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Good tech here, thanks @sdnative !

it would pay if I was a better mechanic! Some quotes I received from the dealer:

radiator $1100 (should be covered with my warrant)
starter $725
waterpump $823
pcv valve $330 (they say book is 3hr labor?)
serp belt $81
fan clutch ~$220

🤭
 
Good tech here, thanks @sdnative !

it would pay if I was a better mechanic! Some quotes I received from the dealer:

radiator $1100 (should be covered with my warrant)
starter $725
waterpump $823
pcv valve $330 (they say book is 3hr labor?)
serp belt $81
fan clutch ~$220

🤭
PCV valve will take you 5 minutes in your driveway...
 
Good tech here, thanks @sdnative !

it would pay if I was a better mechanic! Some quotes I received from the dealer:

radiator $1100 (should be covered with my warrant)
starter $725
waterpump $823
pcv valve $330 (they say book is 3hr labor?)
serp bel
PCV valve will take you 5 minutes in your driveway...
If theyre putting in a new radiator, it's literally 4 nuts that are needed to attach a new fan clutch. Another 5 minutes!
 
Good tech here, thanks @sdnative !

it would pay if I was a better mechanic! Some quotes I received from the dealer:

radiator $1100 (should be covered with my warrant)
starter $725
waterpump $823
pcv valve $330 (they say book is 3hr labor?)
serp belt $81
fan clutch ~$220

🤭

I have a 2013 lx at 86 k miles. I purchased the lx with the hairline crack. The ppi at a toyota dealership didn't see it. I couldn't tell till I posted photos here.

I had radiator, waterpump, pcv valve, serp belt, pulley, hoses, and tensioner replaced by an independent mechanic. I searched my area from this great forum about highly rated independent mechanics. I received about 6 quotes from Lexus dealerships, toyota dealerships, and independent.

The book for replacement of radiator billable hours is 3.5 hour. The billable rate for mechanic is anywhere from $75 to $150 (lexus dealership). The hoses, water pump, pcv, fan clutch, belt...all add an additional about 0.4 hours.

I found great mechanic who agreed with the billable hours. He quoted his rate is $110 a hour. He has been working cruisers since 1975. He did a great job and when I picked up. His invoice was less than quoted as it was a pretty easy job.

I have already purchased the starter but have not installed. It is 4 to 5 hour job. Do your research. I had plenty dealerships and independent shops state that it will not be a cost savings if all the items were installed at the same time. I didn't give them my business.
 
Thank you for the advice fellas, I really appreciate it.

I think for now, I'm going to have the dealer do the Radiator and Starter. The radiator should be free with my warranty, the starter will cost me $725.

I'm going to do the PCV valve and spark plugs myself and hold off on the water pump and associated items for now. It feels stupid, but I justify it because I'm thinking it won't leave my stranded, as it will likely weep before it goes, and if does weep/fail in the next two years I can get it fixed for free.

Am I dummy, or does that sound like a reasonable approach?

Thanks again!
 
Seems like a reasonable approach to me, unless you plan to travel off the beaten path where repairs are difficult or parts are hard to get, in which case doing these as preventative maintenance would be worthwhile. If it was me, I'd have them change the serpentine belt while they are right there.
 
This is anecdotal, but I'm on my original starter and it has 228,000 miles on it. The serpentine belt tensioner seized up at around 100,000 miles and the water pump failed around the same time (weep).

I recommend changing the tensioner and the belt. It will strand you. If you're going to tackle the spark plugs then you can also change the tensioner. It's crazy the dealer would charge you more than 30 minutes of labor for it though. It's two bolts and the serp belt is already off!
 
Op with a good thread. A final excel sheet with the consensus recs. would be a good sticky IMO. -Or posted in a pre-existing sticky. I have 53k mi on my '13 and am monitoring tt.
 
Seems like a reasonable approach to me, unless you plan to travel off the beaten path where repairs are difficult or parts are hard to get, in which case doing these as preventative maintenance would be worthwhile. If it was me, I'd have them change the serpentine belt while they are right there.

thanks for the input. 👍🏻

The rub is that I do travel off the path. Hmm.
 
This is anecdotal, but I'm on my original starter and it has 228,000 miles on it. The serpentine belt tensioner seized up at around 100,000 miles and the water pump failed around the same time (weep).

I recommend changing the tensioner and the belt. It will strand you. If you're going to tackle the spark plugs then you can also change the tensioner. It's crazy the dealer would charge you more than 30 minutes of labor for it though. It's two bolts and the serp belt is already off!

yeah, thanks, this is tough.

I was quoted similar prices from another Indy shop that I like. It seems to me they are going off the same book recs for time, charging list for parts, and unfamiliar with the platform.

I’m so tempted to order parts my self, but these repairs would be hard for me. My experience only includes oil changes, plugs, suspension and dual battery kit installs.
 

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