2011 LX570 Roof Trim Install Instructions Needed
- Thread starter Horatius
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I do not know the exact clip position but that clip is glued to the paint inside the roof channel holding the black trim down.
Here is a picture of the clip at the tailgate end with the rack removed.
I do not know what kind of glue Toyota glue is, but some guys are using epoxy.
Pictures and video for the front clips in this thread:
forum.ih8mud.com
Here is a picture of the clip at the tailgate end with the rack removed.
I do not know what kind of glue Toyota glue is, but some guys are using epoxy.
Pictures and video for the front clips in this thread:
Windshield moulding removal
Windshield moulding removal? My molding was either installed wrong or damage when removed for a windshield replacement. I see the FSM states these are non reusable. So I suppose I could just ripe them off. But I'd like to find the trick to releasing the 4 clips along the side and the 2 on top...
forum.ih8mud.com
Since you ordered one, do you have the part number for the clip handy?
Also, just a thought, if you want to get an idea of where the clip goes, you could probably use something long and thin to see how far past the end of the trim piece the clip is mounted on the side that is still attached. I’m pretty sure it’s just an inch or two.
bloc
SILVER Star
I had to install those on mine. The light colored part is a foam backing, but isn’t adhesive like VHB on the body-side of the clip. The factory service procedure is to use a flexible epoxy under the foam to affix it to the vehicle. Usually there is a clear outline where the original part was because from the factory it is painted over.
The flexible epoxy is available online for repairing fiberglass boats.
I’m assuming the foam is to allow for different rates of expansion between the body and stainless clips, but not totally sure.
Five years, 90k miles, and one trim removal by a (good) windshield installer and my clips are still holding strong.
Note that you will need to replace the four (I think?) plastic clips retaining each trim piece when it is pulled. This often tweaks the trim itself, so my windshield installer requested to have new trim on hand. Your trim is sitting high enough you may be able to clean the area and glue down the new clips without removing though. I’d just make sure I glued the clips down and let the epoxy harden before clipping the trim in to avoid it pulling up while curing.
The flexible epoxy is available online for repairing fiberglass boats.
I’m assuming the foam is to allow for different rates of expansion between the body and stainless clips, but not totally sure.
Five years, 90k miles, and one trim removal by a (good) windshield installer and my clips are still holding strong.
Note that you will need to replace the four (I think?) plastic clips retaining each trim piece when it is pulled. This often tweaks the trim itself, so my windshield installer requested to have new trim on hand. Your trim is sitting high enough you may be able to clean the area and glue down the new clips without removing though. I’d just make sure I glued the clips down and let the epoxy harden before clipping the trim in to avoid it pulling up while curing.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #7
Thanks for all the responses. I have 2clips attached to my roof. One just past the windshield(image 4) and another closer the the sunroof(image3&5). If I press or smack w/ the palm of my hand, the trim snaps down and stays in place(image2) but after I drive a bit, it comes up(image1). My objective is just to get this bloody trim piece to stay down. I don't know what to make of the clips I got from the Lexus dealer. They are different than what is attached to my car but, they are similar. I'm thinking now it may be simply that these trim pieces are just dried out w/ age and sun damage and they've shrunken, so they are not staying snapped down. I originally bought some clear silicone adhesive sealant to glue them down to where the clips are on the car. This may be the simplest and straight forward way to solve my problem.
- Thread starter
- #8
That's probably right as it's been many years since I did mine after wiring lights on the roof.
After a couple years, I did find that the clip didn't hold the molding and it would intermittently pop out. Probably cause the wiring.
Had some Sikaflex around. A small dab on the clip and haven't had an issue since.
For others, in general, I would avoid silicone. Silicone doesn't stick to silicone if it ever needs to get reworked. From the RV community, polyurethane based caulks and glue are much preferred.
bloc
SILVER Star
The part numbers for these clips changed a couple times over the years.. interestingly the metal part was around in 2008, then it got switched to the plastic part that is on your 2011, through 2011.. then it changed back to the metal part.
OP the tabs on yours look ok, but I bet the moulding itself isn't in the best shape where the tabs grab on. The nice thing about the metal part is you can bend the tabs inward to better grip the molding.
I would not use silicon in this location. Not the right material or application. Urethane could work, and I'm pretty sure 99% of windshield installers go with that adhesive. But Toyota usually knows best on this stuff and materials explicitly labeled as flexible epoxy are available quickly on amazon for about $30. That's definitely the route I'd take.
OP the tabs on yours look ok, but I bet the moulding itself isn't in the best shape where the tabs grab on. The nice thing about the metal part is you can bend the tabs inward to better grip the molding.
I would not use silicon in this location. Not the right material or application. Urethane could work, and I'm pretty sure 99% of windshield installers go with that adhesive. But Toyota usually knows best on this stuff and materials explicitly labeled as flexible epoxy are available quickly on amazon for about $30. That's definitely the route I'd take.
