2011 LX heated steering wheel and techstream... (1 Viewer)

[toyotaspeed90]

Anyone know where in Techstream this might be?

It's completely inoperable but there isn't a code that I can find nor a computer to connect to in Techstream....

 

[toyotaspeed90]

Buehler.... buehler...


More strangely (after about an hour) I can't find reference on toyo diy about a heated steering wheel button or control, only mention of the wheel itself...

 

[radman]

Sorry to ask, but have you checked the fuse? Passenger side panel #15. 10A

 

[toyotaspeed90]

Sorry to ask, but have you checked the fuse? Passenger side panel #15. 10A

Yup, fuse was pulled and put on a tester...

 

[toyotaspeed90]

I looked at the switch panel and realized its separate from the knee cover, so I pulled it.

No bad tracers and the switch works per a multimeter....

So, I would assume it's an issue between the steering wheel and the computer for it...

And back to the original question of where is it housed in techstream...

 

[radman]

Does the led illuminate on the switch itself?

 

[toyotaspeed90]

Does the led illuminate on the switch itself?

There's 2 LEDs... one for the button (interior lights) and one to indicate it's been pushed (orange).

The "activation" LED does not turn on.

 

[toyotaspeed90]

So I haven't found an answer to my original question and now think it's in part because the FSM doesn't include using Techstream as part of the diagnostic tests.


I haven't yet pulled the steering wheel apart (I'm slightly more hesitant to start yanking on panels than I would do on other vehicles... even our 2017 Prius V was easier to dismantle the interior without instructions).

I have spent (way too much) time in the FSM PDFs.


For anyone following, or needing in the future:

Heated steering wheel is in the "Steering" manual pages 28-45.

However, that does not include taking the wheel apart. That is in the interior manual under SRS and "steering pad".

 

[CharlieS]

Taking the steering wheel apart isn't too bad. Just make sure you remove the fasteners from the back side and don't go trying to pry things from the front.

 

[toyotaspeed90]

Taking the steering wheel apart isn't too bad. Just make sure you remove the fasteners from the back side and don't go trying to pry things from the front.

Yup, already learned that (before touching the vehicle)...

 

[toyotaspeed90]

Took apart the steering wheel, left foot kick panel, and the knee panel to inspect wiring.

While I may have found the problem per the FSM... I'm not convinced it's accurate.

I've had a lot of Toyotas and have found, at times, the FSM is written by people and as such, aren't always accurate. One of the wire tests "failed" and the result is to replace wiring. While possible that's accurate, absolutely nothing else is wrong with the vehicle nor any steering wheel functions/buttons.

Now here's what/why I believe the problem lies elsewhere...
The FSM, for my situation, tells you to pull the cable from the controller and test the wire you pulled for resistance values. If failed, replace the controller.

Only problem is the resistance test, which passed, does not test the controller but the heater end itself.

Later, after pulling the wheel apart (requiring the battery be disconnected) the FSM tells you to check for voltage.

I'm going with my gut and have ordered (used) a heater controller. If that's not it I'm out very little and wrong, but no worse off than I am now.

 

[toyotaspeed90]

Well it's not the controller.

This is starting to get irritating.

E102-11 doesn't have continuity to E103-ETM

The spiral cable is perfectly fine (it tests good for continuity).

The diagrams really are less than helpful. The wiring supposedly runs from the combo switch (all tests fine) to the spiral cable connection it the wiring under the colum looks like it diverts to the passenger side, but it is a bit of a (factory) nest. Nothing looks tampered with, no pins look bad or loose, no charring, etc. The fuses are good and the fuse blocks test well for voltage. Steering wheel was off to test the spiral cable...

Part of me want to run a test lead from the combo switch to the spiral cable and see if that works... might be able to do this by just pulling the steering column clamshell...

(All back together)