2008 Tundra 5.7 P032C

[Norcalfamily]

So after having a giant pile of poop under the intake by a mechanic, I was still troubled by the lingering nasty smell. Sprayed some cleaner and water which caused previous rodent wire repair on wires to fail.
Now I have the whole top open, should I replace the secondary air injection valves while at it? What else?

 

[bigredmachine]

replace the air valves and replace the pcv valves. why not replace the knock sensor harness as they can be a pain to repair since your dealing with shielded wire

 

[Norcalfamily]

replace the air valves and replace the pcv valves. why not replace the knock sensor harness as they can be a pain to repair since your dealing with shielded wire

I am waiting on the harness . I onlyv have 25k miles on the truck. The air valves I heard are prone to failure and may have an updated design?

 

[bernefj60]

There's a kit out there that bypasses the AIP. I used it when mine went bad at 150K. Here's a link to the bypass kit. Paul is a good dude and easy to reach if you need advice.

Hewitt-Tech: Gen 2 Secondary Air Injection System Bypass kits

Gen 2 Secondary Air Injection System (SAIS) Bypass Kit is our most comprehensive solution. It enables you to clear the Check Engine Light, Limp Mode and error codes related to both mechanical and electrical SAIS faults.

hewitt-tech.com

If you decide to replace the components, be aware that it's a huge pain in the ass, and expensive, too. Besides the 2 valves, there's a mess of s*** under the passenger side headlight, and you have to access a lot of it through the wheel well. Not sure how much the parts are (probably not too bad); I suspect that most of the cost comes from the labor involved just to access the components. If you're in it already, though, shouldn't be that hard to switch everything out. Just make sure the soak the studs in PB blaster overnight before you tackle it.

All that being said, I'd still call Paul Hewitt to see what he has to say, since he makes the kit to bypass it, and may have a cleaner solution, now that you have it apart.

I have gone through emissions testing in MD since I installed it. No problems at all.

Paul's contact info is

Paul Hewitt - President
Hewitt Technologies Inc.
Toll Free 844-307-7671

HTH!

 

[bigredmachine]

The air valves I heard are prone to failure and may have an updated design?

the valves due fail but its due to water intrusion from the air pumps location. eventually the valves seize either open or closed, I personally haven't seen them seize open. the valves are the same p/n but the intake for the air pumps and the air pumps are updated numbers

 

[Norcalfamily]

There's a kit out there that bypasses the AIP. I used it when mine went bad at 150K. Here's a link to the bypass kit. Paul is a good dude and easy to reach if you need advice.

Hewitt-Tech: Gen 2 Secondary Air Injection System Bypass kits

Gen 2 Secondary Air Injection System (SAIS) Bypass Kit is our most comprehensive solution. It enables you to clear the Check Engine Light, Limp Mode and error codes related to both mechanical and electrical SAIS faults.

hewitt-tech.com

If you decide to replace the components, be aware that it's a huge pain in the ass, and expensive, too. Besides the 2 valves, there's a mess of s*** under the passenger side headlight, and you have to access a lot of it through the wheel well. Not sure how much the parts are (probably not too bad); I suspect that most of the cost comes from the labor involved just to access the components. If you're in it already, though, shouldn't be that hard to switch everything out. Just make sure the soak the studs in PB blaster overnight before you tackle it.

All that being said, I'd still call Paul Hewitt to see what he has to say, since he makes the kit to bypass it, and may have a cleaner solution, now that you have it apart.

I have gone through emissions testing in MD since I installed it. No problems at all.

Paul's contact info is

Paul Hewitt - President
Hewitt Technologies Inc.
Toll Free 844-307-7671

HTH!

Thanks I have seen his vids on YouTube.
I will definitely consider it.

Lookinh at the pump itself by the wheelwell, has anyone considered drill a drain hole at the bottom of the black housing and maybe a rubber plug to keep it closed?
Few videos show that blastic bowl retaining lots of water thus killing the fancy fan motor.
Thanks