2007 Sequoia Lift/Build (1 Viewer)

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Jan 28, 2020
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Bakersfield
Starting this thread off with my lift. I’ll share my stereo installation and a few other things as I go.

Cliffs Notes:
I had a Tacoma.
I sold the Tacoma because I inherited a sports car which became my daily.
My wife’s daily was our 2007 Sequoia.
She hated the mpg.
Bought my wife a car with better MPG.
Sequoia sat around.
I realized I can’t be trusted with a sports car, so I’m selling it.
Sequoia becomes my daily... so I lift it.
Pics below...

Backstory/Justification?:
In 2015, after a long search for a family vehicle, we found this 2007 Sequoia for a good price. Being that it was going to be a people mover and a tow vehicle, the fact we have a RZR for off-road fun, combined with a good price, it being 2wd wasn’t a deciding factor for my wife. Did I protest the 2wd? Yes. Did it work? Nope. LOL. Thus, we purchased a 2wd Sequoia. I tell you all this because, to me, it seems a bit odd to lift a 2wd truck. This is the only 2wd truck I have ever owned... and that is the operative word, own. I didn’t want another car payment, so here I am making a grocery getter look better for my commute to work. Ha.

Suspension:
At first, I was looking at coil over suspension‘s, similar to what I had on my 06 Tundra (Camburg CO’s & Uniball UCAs.) But after reading some reviews, watching 1stGenOffRoad on YouTube, combined with the desire to save some money, I decided on the OME springs.

For the front I chose OME 2885 Springs with the Bilstein 5100 struts. I thought about going with the entire OME set up (springs and shocks), but I was happy with the ride of the Bilstein 5100s on my Tundra (rear only) and Tacoma (front and rear). After some research on UCAs I chose the SPC units. This video helped me in my decision making. Also, since the truck has 136,000 miles on the odo, I had the lower ball joints replaced with factory units.

For the rear suspension I went with the OME 2862 springs and the Sequoia replacement 5100 shocks.

After getting the lift installed, I felt the front wheels/tires didn’t stick out as much as I wanted. They actually looked as narrow as the stock wheels/tires. I had some spidertrax 1.25“ wheel spacers in my garage, so I installed them on the front, along with 1/4” spacers on the rear. While the spacers made the truck look much better, the front tires now rubbed on the seam/pinch weld. No biggie, my 4lbs sledge hammer took care of the issue; now I have no rubbing.

I also ditched the running boards.

So here’s my setup:
Front:
OME 2885
Bilstein Adjustable 5100 24-261425 (set on lowest perch)
SPC UCAs.

Rear:
OME 2862
Bilstein 5100 24-276061

Wheels:
Method NV
17 x 8.5
0mm offset

Tires:
Nitto RidgeGrappler
285/70/17

Wheel Spacers:
1.25” front
0.25” rear

The end result of the lift, measured on the centerline of the wheel from ground to bottom of the fender:
Front driver: 38.125”
Front Pass: 38.25”
Rear driver: 38.5”
Rear pass: 38.5”

I’ll post a review of the entire kit after I have a little more seat time and I get new swaybar bushings and end links.

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A bit of a lift and some wheels and tires really transform these!! Looks good!!
 
This is after 2-3wks and about 1,000 miles. Looks like it settled 3/8” to 1/2” front and rear... give or take 1/16”

Measured on the centerline of the wheel from ground to bottom of the fender.

Front driver: 37.75”
Front Pass: 37.75”
Rear driver: 38.00”
Rear pass: 38.125”

Measured from the ground to the bottom of forward most and rearward most portion of the rocker pinch weld.

Front driver: 19.625”
Front Pass: 19.625”
Rear driver: 19.375”
Rear pass: 19.5”
 
Review/Issues:
The back end was all over the place; it would get very squirrelly at times. Happened when going over bumps or variances in the road. Initiating turns it felt like the rear of the truck rolls quickly, then settles. It almost felt like there was no rebound dampening. The truck also felt like it wouldn’t track straight. Overall the handling was bad at best, and scary at worst.

The other issue is the traction control kicks in all the time. I did a zero point recalibration, but didn’t notice any change. I watched a few YT vids, but who knows if I did it correctly. I also notice, on freeway on/off ramps if I brake while in the turn, the TC engages. But if I accelerate, shifting the weight to the rear, the TC disengages.

But let’s tackle the handling issue first and hope that diminishes the TC issue.


Solution:
I went back to 4WheelParts to have them recheck and adjust the alignment.

Here’s the alignment data:
Specified Range (Per 4WP printout):
Camber: [-0.6] - [0.9]
Caster: [2.2] - [3.7]
Toe: [-0.03] - [0.12]
SAI: [9.5] - [11.0]
Included Angle: [8.9] - [11.9]

Cross Camber: [-0.5] - [0.5]
Cross Caster: [-0.5] - [0.5]
Cross SAI: [-0.5] - [0.5]
Total Toe: [-0.07] - [0.23]

BEFORE
L [-0.4] -CAM- [-0.5] R
L [2.5] -CAS- [2.5] R
L [0.02] -TOE- [0.25] R
L [12.3] -SAI- [13.5] R
L [11.9] -Inc Ang- [13.1] R

Cross Camber: 0.1
Cross Caster: 0.0
Cross SAI: -1.2
Total Toe: 0.27

AFTER
L [-0.6] -CAM- [-0.4] R
L [3.3] -CAS- [3.6] R
L [0.04] -TOE- [0.05] R
L [10.3] -SAI- [10.4] R
L [9.7] -Inc Ang- [10.0] R

Cross Camber: -0.2
Cross Caster: -0.2
Cross SAI: -0.1
Total Toe: 0.09

This helped with the tracking issue and made the truck more predictable, but the rear end was still all over the place.
Next I installed the OME 60020L shocks. Most, of not all the rear end problems are gone. The OME’s are a little stiff, but I assume they soften up after a few miles. We will see if this helps the TC issue.
 
If those don’t work, the dobinson long travel shocks will be softer and fix that issue
 
Hey Justang. I love your sequoia. I also have a 2005 limited and just finished restoring the frame on it. I did it all in my home garage. Took it out, sandblasted it and epoxy primed it and then industrial polyurethane on it.
I have the parts for the same set up as yours except in the rear I got Dobinson GS59-685 shocks and in he front I'm thinking of doing the 2885's with 5100s.
I must ask: why use the 2885's since they are for a Tacoma and non V8 trucks, isn't it a bit soft this spring for a V8 truck.
Did you also delete the air suspension positioning sensor when you deleted the air bags?
Your truck looks just perfect, nice and leveled. Excellent build. I hope you get to enjoy it in good health.
 
Hey Justang. I love your sequoia. I also have a 2005 limited and just finished restoring the frame on it. I did it all in my home garage. Took it out, sandblasted it and epoxy primed it and then industrial polyurethane on it.
I have the parts for the same set up as yours except in the rear I got Dobinson GS59-685 shocks and in he front I'm thinking of doing the 2885's with 5100s.
I must ask: why use the 2885's since they are for a Tacoma and non V8 trucks, isn't it a bit soft this spring for a V8 truck.
Did you also delete the air suspension positioning sensor when you deleted the air bags?
Your truck looks just perfect, nice and leveled. Excellent build. I hope you get to enjoy it in good health.

The 2885 springs are for the Tacoma, 4Runner(V8), FJ, and LandCruiser (V8). It’s what Josh on 1st Gen Off-road suggested, so I went with them. They’re working great for my Sequoia. I have the 5100s in front set at the lowest rung. If I were to do it again I’d go with the OME struts. 5100’s are too soft for me.

I have an SR5, so I don’t have the air suspension in the rear.
 
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Did you use the stock sway bar links or did you get aftermarket ones. Also the sway bar bushings are they stock rubber or polyurethane or something like that?

Thanks.
 
Did you use the stock sway bar links or did you get aftermarket ones. Also the sway bar bushings are they stock rubber or polyurethane or something like that?

Thanks.

I got the suspensionmaxx endlinks. I put them on a month ago. Didn’t notice much of a difference.
 
Hi Justang, I have a 2006 with very similar setup in the rear and also struggled with crazy handling after the lift. The problem for me and others was the geometry of the track bar (panhard bar) changes when you lift the rear end. If the track bar is parallel to the ground then you get very little side to side movement over bumps. With a lift, the track bar is no longer parallel to the ground and the bump induced side movement is exaggerated. My solution was a weld in bracket on the axle to relocate endpoint higher to bring the track bar parallel again. Radically improved my handling! You can see my write up on FB - "Toyota Sequoia Offroad" forum
 
Any update on the build? Did you get the rear sorted out?
 
Hi man, I need your help. Just finished my rig. I have everything the same as you except the rear shocks and wheel offset. The alignment shop could not align my car properly all thou they claimed that they have done lots of lifted trucks. After they gave it to me one of the SPC ball joints slipped out of position. I asked: did you torque to 150, he said: about there, so that tells me he did not. So here goes:

Front: same as you 2885 on 5100's lowest notch, with SPC UCA's.
Rear: 2862 with dobinson shocks.

Can you PLEASE, take a picture of your camber bolts on driver and passenger and tell me what position is your upper ball joint, is it on D as recommended or something else.

I have 285 17 70's but my wheels have the offset -12 and 9"width, and they are supposed to fit our 1rst gen sequoias without any rub, all you have to do is remove the mud flap and no rubbing issues. This info was provided by www.customwheeloffset.com. They have a 2005 sequoia done up with a leveling kit and 17" wheels with 9"width and -12 offset on 285 70's. Here is the link: 2005 Toyota Sequoia Wheel Offset Aggressive > 1" Outside Fender Leveling Kit | 163851 | Custom Offsets - https://www.customwheeloffset.com/wheel-offset-gallery/163851/2005-toyota-sequoia-gear-off-road-big-block-oem-leveling-kit

I did not like these wheel and I found a much better looking wheel with those exact specs 17" with 9" width and -12 offset, here is the link bellow:

Search - https://www.partsengine.ca/search.aspx?SearchTerm=355-7983SG-12#SearchTerm=355-7983SG-12 They look amazing, best looking wheel in my opinion.

I should not have any rubbing on the frame. I have set ball joints to position A, recommended by josh from 1rstgensequoia.com, he has bunch of videos on youtube, and in his SPC sequoia install he puts the ball joints to position A for maximum positive caster. That's what I did.

I need to see your driver and passenger front and back camber bolts, so I can see what position they are and what position is your ball joint.

I will send you pics of my rig once I get it all done. IT LOOKS AMAZING

Thanks for taking the time to read this and god bless.
 
Starting this thread off with my lift. I’ll share my stereo installation and a few other things as I go.

Cliffs Notes:
I had a Tacoma.
I sold the Tacoma because I inherited a sports car which became my daily.
My wife’s daily was our 2007 Sequoia.
She hated the mpg.
Bought my wife a car with better MPG.
Sequoia sat around.
I realized I can’t be trusted with a sports car, so I’m selling it.
Sequoia becomes my daily... so I lift it.
Pics below...

Backstory/Justification?:
In 2015, after a long search for a family vehicle, we found this 2007 Sequoia for a good price. Being that it was going to be a people mover and a tow vehicle, the fact we have a RZR for off-road fun, combined with a good price, it being 2wd wasn’t a deciding factor for my wife. Did I protest the 2wd? Yes. Did it work? Nope. LOL. Thus, we purchased a 2wd Sequoia. I tell you all this because, to me, it seems a bit odd to lift a 2wd truck. This is the only 2wd truck I have ever owned... and that is the operative word, own. I didn’t want another car payment, so here I am making a grocery getter look better for my commute to work. Ha.

Suspension:
At first, I was looking at coil over suspension‘s, similar to what I had on my 06 Tundra (Camburg CO’s & Uniball UCAs.) But after reading some reviews, watching 1stGenOffRoad on YouTube, combined with the desire to save some money, I decided on the OME springs.

For the front I chose OME 2885 Springs with the Bilstein 5100 struts. I thought about going with the entire OME set up (springs and shocks), but I was happy with the ride of the Bilstein 5100s on my Tundra (rear only) and Tacoma (front and rear). After some research on UCAs I chose the SPC units. This video helped me in my decision making. Also, since the truck has 136,000 miles on the odo, I had the lower ball joints replaced with factory units.

For the rear suspension I went with the OME 2862 springs and the Sequoia replacement 5100 shocks.

After getting the lift installed, I felt the front wheels/tires didn’t stick out as much as I wanted. They actually looked as narrow as the stock wheels/tires. I had some spidertrax 1.25“ wheel spacers in my garage, so I installed them on the front, along with 1/4” spacers on the rear. While the spacers made the truck look much better, the front tires now rubbed on the seam/pinch weld. No biggie, my 4lbs sledge hammer took care of the issue; now I have no rubbing.

I also ditched the running boards.

So here’s my setup:
Front:
OME 2885
Bilstein Adjustable 5100 24-261425 (set on lowest perch)
SPC UCAs.

Rear:
OME 2862
Bilstein 5100 24-276061

Wheels:
Method NV
17 x 8.5
0mm offset

Tires:
Nitto RidgeGrappler
285/70/17

Wheel Spacers:
1.25” front
0.25” rear

The end result of the lift, measured on the centerline of the wheel from ground to bottom of the fender:
Front driver: 38.125”
Front Pass: 38.25”
Rear driver: 38.5”
Rear pass: 38.5”

I’ll post a review of the entire kit after I have a little more seat time and I get new swaybar bushings and end links.

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Hey, great looking rig. I just installed the same OME coil springs in the rear of my 2002 Sequoia. Feels like I've got a bit of a lean to the left though. An ARB tech told me to put the A coil on the driver side (left-hand drive) and B coil on the passenger side. Do you recall which sides you put the A and B coils on?
 
B side should be driver side
 

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