First of all, I want to thank everyone in aggregate for being such a great resource for new owners; I picked up a 2000 LC late last year and the expertise and testimonials here have been invaluable. Thank you.
My issue:
When I bought the truck it was supplied with a single non-remote master key (verified as master via the usual process). I also noticed the driver door lock wouldn't engage unless either done manually from the inside or outside with the key. Other locks seemed to work with the switch. I got a fob key cut by a locksmith so I could stash away the original. He verified that he couldn't program the remote until the driver door lock was fixed. Wasn't a big deal at the time so I let it go until I had some other service to get done, and a reputable local place replaced the entire lock assembly, fixing the driver door lock issue which now works like a charm. [Insert my head shaking when I found the videos/posts showing how to replace just the actuator motor for 5 bucks apiece. No comment necessary...moving on!] I assumed now I could program the fob.
Unfortunately not. I can go through the programming sequence as detailed on this forum by others, and the vehicle does successfully enter programming mode after flicking the lock 5x twice and turning ignition to ON. It also gives me confirmation of programming after hitting lock/unlock then lock on the fob as expected. I'll close the door to leave the programming mode, and when I try to use lock or unlock on the fob--nothing. I've tried doing the lock/unlock sequence both with the electronic door switch and manually with the handle lock throw lever--same result with either.
What I've learned in the meantime in this summer heat is that the other door lock actuators (all 4 of them) are quite short on life and really only give me about one throw of the lock before punking out. My assumption, right or wrong, is that programming the remote must require some feedback loop to be intact between all the locks which need to all be functional. So I bought 4 of those little hobby motors to replace in the actuators myself. My fear is that after sweating my butt off in the middle of a Tennessee summer gutting the 3 passenger doors and the hatch and probably breaking some piece of plastic during the journey, I'll be left with very functional door locks but still a key fob that won't program.
Is there something I'm not considering here? Any help is appreciated.
My issue:
When I bought the truck it was supplied with a single non-remote master key (verified as master via the usual process). I also noticed the driver door lock wouldn't engage unless either done manually from the inside or outside with the key. Other locks seemed to work with the switch. I got a fob key cut by a locksmith so I could stash away the original. He verified that he couldn't program the remote until the driver door lock was fixed. Wasn't a big deal at the time so I let it go until I had some other service to get done, and a reputable local place replaced the entire lock assembly, fixing the driver door lock issue which now works like a charm. [Insert my head shaking when I found the videos/posts showing how to replace just the actuator motor for 5 bucks apiece. No comment necessary...moving on!] I assumed now I could program the fob.
Unfortunately not. I can go through the programming sequence as detailed on this forum by others, and the vehicle does successfully enter programming mode after flicking the lock 5x twice and turning ignition to ON. It also gives me confirmation of programming after hitting lock/unlock then lock on the fob as expected. I'll close the door to leave the programming mode, and when I try to use lock or unlock on the fob--nothing. I've tried doing the lock/unlock sequence both with the electronic door switch and manually with the handle lock throw lever--same result with either.
What I've learned in the meantime in this summer heat is that the other door lock actuators (all 4 of them) are quite short on life and really only give me about one throw of the lock before punking out. My assumption, right or wrong, is that programming the remote must require some feedback loop to be intact between all the locks which need to all be functional. So I bought 4 of those little hobby motors to replace in the actuators myself. My fear is that after sweating my butt off in the middle of a Tennessee summer gutting the 3 passenger doors and the hatch and probably breaking some piece of plastic during the journey, I'll be left with very functional door locks but still a key fob that won't program.
Is there something I'm not considering here? Any help is appreciated.
