Bolts have a top washer to prevent spinning , there is plenty of thread on all the bolts , you need to look at the mount has a whole has upper rubber , Tube and lower mount rubber . If you change the bolt to frame ratio , you need to machine a 1” I figure would be plenty for me .
So if you move the body up 1” under the factory body mount the bolt is still long enough , if you remove or make custom lower rubber mounts 1” or less there is a extra 1/2 of thread , so if you make the lower mount 1” shorter that will offset the extra you put on top making it possible to retain the original bolts , all your doing is changing the offset ratio to the top .
That is the easy part I have a machine shop so making the mounts are pretty easy just use 6061 aluminum .
Not sure once you undo the bolts there is enough room to push them up to slide in the spacer .
Still a lot of measuring and figuring .
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It may be a nice hack to change the upper to lower rubber ratio to get the lift. I'm not so sure it would be a good idea. The rubber compliance in both directions is more than likely engineered from the factory in a tuned manner that allows flex and isolation of the body to the frame. Like a suspension of the vehicle, both compression and rebound damping rates matter to overall performance. By changing the ratio, it may negatively alter its performance in things like washboards roads where there is significant but controlled deflection in both ways of the bodymount bushings.