2 Diesels, 4 Continents

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Ok, I'll check on the solenoid. Yes the starter was re-painted so I think that could be the culprit as well. I've also found some not nice corrosion around where the batteries ground to the frame. Interestingly enough when the sparking-during-starting occured the nice lady pointed to my front differential as the source. While I know the sparks weren't coming from the diff. the frame ground is right above it...
 
Greetings team.

I got to the bottom of it:

Root Cause: Engine-Frame grounding cable was original and in terrible condition. It still allowed some current to pass so when you check it with the multimeter it looked ok but under full load (Cranking) it was not allowing enough current to pass so there was arcing. I never did identify the path of the arc because the sparks were getting blown around by the fan and two alternators. I suspect it was from the engine mounts.

This poor cable / arcing condition resulted in low voltage/current starting of the starter which I think caused it to burn up. Fortunately it was still covered under the warranty from the previous re-build.

New grounding cable and re-re-built starter are in and she is back to starting first time every time, sans-sparks!
 
Greetings team.

I got to the bottom of it:

Root Cause: Engine-Frame grounding cable was original and in terrible condition. It still allowed some current to pass so when you check it with the multimeter it looked ok but under full load (Cranking) it was not allowing enough current to pass so there was arcing. I never did identify the path of the arc because the sparks were getting blown around by the fan and two alternators. I suspect it was from the engine mounts.

This poor cable / arcing condition resulted in low voltage/current starting of the starter which I think caused it to burn up. Fortunately it was still covered under the warranty from the previous re-build.

New grounding cable and re-re-built starter are in and she is back to starting first time every time, sans-sparks!


Nice!
 
Help, my clutch slave cylinder gave up the ghost. Pulled it apart and its clearly been rebuilt. Anyone know where you can buy an OEM BJ-40 (1980) clutch slave cylinder or how to reliably rebuild one?
 
I have used the piston and seals from a 86 4runner clutch slave
To fix my 76 fj 40 slave cyl
Just used parts I had laying around
And that was two years ago lol
 
Found One

Thanks Tim,

I found one from Cruiser Corps for $50 including the ride. OEM from Aisin. Thanks Cruiser Corps! It looks exactly like the one that came off, except its not 34 years old and rebuilt :)

-z$
 
Great thread! Thanks for writing about the cruisers and the adventures. Stupid question: Why would the engine in the bj die due to an electrical problem? Is there a fuel cut off switch that kicks in when it loses current?

Well it got worse as the trip went on, would lose power while driving, engine would die out, put in the clutch, and often after 1-2 sec the power would come back, and we would keep going.

I'm trying to educate myself on diesels and was under the impression that once you got the engine started you wouldn't have to worry about losing the alt, etc. Thanks, Taro



...via IH8MUD app
 
Great thread! Thanks for writing about the cruisers and the adventures. Stupid question: Why would the engine in the bj die due to an electrical problem? Is there a fuel cut off switch that kicks in when it loses current?



I'm trying to educate myself on diesels and was under the impression that once you got the engine started you wouldn't have to worry about losing the alt, etc. Thanks, Taro



...via IH8MUD app

You're right up to 1978. From 1979 it has an EDIC system which controls the fuel on/off by the ignition key.

Rudi
 
Sorry for the hijack, but follow-up question: So with the EDIC system, does the engine still require a constant current in order to stay running? In other words, would an electrical problem kill the engine after it was started? Thanks, Taro

...via IH8MUD app
 
If the electrical problem is in the EDIC circuit...... yes.

Rudi
 
The EDIC in the BJ is very basic. As I understand it, it is basically only there in case you have low oil pressure. Also, if memory serves there is a way to ground out the EDIC oil-pressure sensor such that it will run even if the oil pressure gauge is broken, missing, or if you really wanted, had no oil in it.

If you search EDIC on here you will learn more about it than you ever wanted to know! :)
 
The EDIC is a motor (activated by the IGN key) that moves a rod to the valve of the fuel supply. For safety reasons there is a pressure switch that sends the EDIC to the stop position in case of "no oil pressure".

Rudi
 
Zach and Rudi, thanks for the continued info. Reading through some edic threads brings up more questions. So rather than hijack this thread any further, I'll start another one over in the diesel section. Thanks again, Taro

...via IH8MUD app
 
Guys... This is going to suck...
 
For Sale

So I have come to the sad realization that I don’t use or drive this truck enough and would like to begin looking for a new home for it. Somewhere where someone will have time to spend with the rig, enjoy it and take it on new fun adventures.

Where to start…
Brief history:
1980 BJ41 (JDM). I bought it in 2009 in New Zeeland and spent a month touring the north and south islands with it. I shipped it back to my home town of Baltimore Ro-Ro and picked it up in Baltimore. It saw lite use there until I decided to take it to South America. In the summer of 2011 it was shipped to Boulder Colorado where my cousin (A Toyota rock crawling advocate and head of a machine shop) spent 3 months converting it to an overland expedition rig. In the fall of 2011 it was containerized and shipped to Buenos Aires Argentina. I picked it up in the opening days of 2012 and drove 5,000km south to Ushuaia in Tierra Del Fuego before driving all the way to the very top of South America in Colombia. In July 2012 it was again containerized and shipped to my new home in Houston. It sees weekly use now and lives in a garage.
It has it’s own thread here on mud with lots of pictures:
https://forum.ih8mud.com/expedition-builds/522985-2-diesels-4-continents.html



Here is the official IH8Mud used vehicle pre-inspection checklist from Greg Overton

Name: Zach
Phone: PM me
Price: $22,000 including all the gear

What year is the Land Cruiser? 1980
What color is it? Blue
What Is the actual milage if known? 170,000kms (need to walk down and check)
Does the vehicle have a clear title? Yes
Has the vehicle been garaged? Body/Frame Currently garaged but not its entire life


Rate the body on a scale of 1-10 with a 10 being perfect: 5
Is there rust? if yes please describe – Yes, both doors are very rusty and the rest of the body has the odd to a few rust blisters
Describe any body/frame damage? Just the rust, although I haven’t found any serious frame rust…
Condition of windows? All windows re good, no cracks
Rear wheel wells cut for flares? Yes
All body logos present? I have them, not installed
Has vehicle been repainted? if yes, original color? Yes, Red
Has the top been removed? No
Is there rust in the floor? No
Please rate the tires - Excellent, Good, Fair, Need's replacing Good, 2 years old, 25,000 km on them
Original Wheels and Hubcaps? If no, please describe. Engine and Mechanical: New sheels in 2012, original locking hubs


Rate the engine on a scale of 1-10 with a 10 being excellent: 10 (Starts first time every time, never given me any trouble
Is this the original engine/transmission? Yes
Has either engine/transmission been rebuilt? No
Original carburator or after market? Diesel baby!
What repairs does the engine/transmission need? The Tranny / T-case is currently using a bypass line: All you ever wanted to know about that here including exact pictures starting at post #57: https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/95870-tranny-transfer-case-bypass-hose-3.html
Does it leak fluids? Very very slight from the T-case and at the moment the oil-drain plug is leaking because of the last idiot that changed it.
Does it burn oil? No
Is the clutch in good shape? Yes
Have brakes been serviced? When? Brakes were serviced in 2012. We also broke a break line in Patagonia so it wa serviced again in aug 2012.
Transmission - in good working order - both high and low range? Yes
Does it shift smoothly? Yes
Power steering? Absolutely not!
How many inches of play in the steering? All new Tie Rod ends in 2012, very little play, drive it on the highway every time I take it out
Air Conditioning? Absolutely not!
Winch? 12,000 lb Ramsey
Aux Fuel Tank? No


Rate the interior on a scale of 1-10 with a 10 being perfect 6
What is broken or missing on the interior? Amp meter and oil pressure don’t work
Seats Ripped? No
Headliner sagging or gone? gone
Original rubber mats? no
Rear Jump Seats present? gone
Dash Pads Ripped or cracked? NA
Dash board cut out for add-on switches or stereo? Yes, lots of holes
Original Radio? NO
Gauges working? Yes except Amps and oil pressure
All signals working? yes
Brake lights? yes
Head lights? yes
Turn Signals? yes
Licence Plate lights? yes
Hazards? yes
Wipers? yes
Washers? NO
Instument lighting? yes
Interior Light? LED running on AAAs
Original Owners manual present? NO
Inspection light present? NO
Jack present? Yes
Toolbag Present?We carried tons of tools, these will not go with the truck, so no
Rear Heater? no

Any additional add-ons, options, information oh yeah!

Mods & maintenance:
(Before South America Trip, and I’ll keep adding to this as I remember stuff)
 Tires and drivetrain:
o New tires, BFG MTs 33”
o New steel wheels that have built in spacers to give us a slightly wider wheeltrack (1.5” / wheel if memory serves)
 Electrical:
o 12,000lb Ramsey winch
o 4 optimas (2 red tops for starting, 2 yellow tops for house bank)
o 2nd alternator (GM 3-wire for 12v system)
o Custom milled aluminum battery trays
o In-line volt meters
o 120V AC inverter + 5v SUB charging station
o Daniel Clark (Is that right?) headsets and avix intercom
o Stereo including line in
o In-line amp for intercom system
o Hella offroad lights
o Custom built LED Stop Turn Tails with White LED floods for reverse lamps
o Re-wound 24V alternator
 Mechanical:
o Rebuilt radiator
o RACOR primary fuel filter and water separator
o VIAR continuous duty air compressor + 2gal tank + air hose, tire chuck and air gun
o New tie-rod ends
o New clutch master cylinder
 Other:
o Diamond Rax roof rack
o CVT roof top tent with extra coverage and a zip on room for below, kind of crazy!
o TONS of spares.
o Hi-Lift
o 185 DB compressor driven air horn
o Roll bar already installed be PO as well as cumfy chairs
o Altimiter (functional)
o Compass (works, just too close to engine so always reading south
o Massive MasterLock puck security locks
o Ammo-can bolted between the seats as a safe (where you keep your title and passports
o Security deck designed to hold action packers so even if someone breaks the windows they can’t get the gear out.
o Snorkel

(After South America Trip, and I’ll keep adding to this as I remember stuff)
 Re-wound both alternators and the starter
 New clutch slave cylinder
 RTT and roof rack removed to fit in garage
 Full Texas inspection passed
 Tagged and Titled in TX
 New wiper linkage system
 
Pictures coming, or you can visit it's website @ www.4by4.org if you can't wait
 
Here is a video from the trip with lots of truck pics:
https://vimeo.com/39047563

Here is a pic with all the accessories (No the Ducati and the Ninja don't come with the truck )

Babe_Accesories.webp
 

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