2.5inch OME lift and Nitto Trail Grapler MT 295/70/18

[RL4x4]

3) The ride seems very rough to me. I feel every bump and crack in the road. After driving it for about an hour yesterday my neck was sore. This is coming from someone who drives a Subaru WRX STI as a daily driver so I am used to firm rides. But this current ride is brutal.


Any thoughts are appreciated.

Sorry to hear about your troubles. I went through the same thing with my 100.

IMO the OME shocks suck BIG TIME when it comes to ride quality! Maybe they are fine for rock crawling or mud bogging but mine were nasty on the road and on gravel/rough roads. I ditched the OMEs and spent 3x the price on the "Aussie Bilsteins" but I think they are 10x better = great value

Your front end looks too high and the shocks are likely "topping out" their travel during routine driving. Try lowering it at least 0.5" and maybe even 0.75"

I removed the OME torsion bars because I think their effective spring rate makes the ride far too harsh unless you add a ton of weight up front, read bumper + winch.

Those Nitto tires, like any LT mud tire, ride like crap. Go back to a P-Metric tire or at very least a more compliant A/T model.

 

[Nottajeep]

My OME setup has been a total upgrade over the OEM toyota suspension. Ride is great with and without the ARB front bumper. When you lower the front down some, I bet your ride is good again.

 

[jemsec]

If you want level it's best to measure from the ground to the frame. Front and back. If not you will get the front higher than the rear due to fender well differences. I did mine using the frame and it made a noticeable difference. Looking from the side it appears it's not level by a small amount. But it is. You will get a more even weight distribution on all four wheels getting a better ride. Add a bumper and winch and you have loaded the OME torsion bars like they were designed and you're in business.

 

[sleeoffroad]

Maybe already said but....

The front end being higher is because the OME set up you have is for the heavy bumper you are going to install...Once installed it will lower and once the shocks settle a bit, it will even out. Guess you gotta get the front bumper sooner then later..

Hey, newbie, get back in the river

Front is too high since it was set up too high. Min down travel is 60mm. So that is the highest you want to set up the front. That truck looks way high in the front. Various factors effect down travel. LX and LC is not the same in terms of how much the A arm move. Also aftermarket UCA's will affect that as well.

I am new to 100s and have not done a lift yet..Heck I don't even have a 100 yet, picking it up Friday, but I had an FJC and 4runner. All IFS and pretty similar to the 100, except the torsion set up.

Hence the adjustability making it too high vs your comment re spring rate.

I highly recommend after market UCAs. Check the home page on this web site.

As a previous FJC owner, many of us that modded our FJCs, replaced the OEM UCAs with aftermarket ones. Really the main reason to do that is because the OEMs are designed for a factory height and when you lift they tend to angle downward, makes it tough to get back to factory alignment specs...Going with a aftermarket UCA, allows for the lift and should allow you to get back closer to factory specs for alignment..

Big debate here in the 100 section if they are needed. The 100 takes lifting better then the FJC or the Taco/4Runner. So UCA's not always needed. Does help in certain cases. Search

The bene is that most aftermarket UCA manufacturers also design for larger tires to not rub...With that said I had 35s on my FJC and they rubbed on my LR UCAs also.. Not anything major, just when in extreme turning or when working certain trail features...

True dat.

The Firestone airbags have been known to have issues. That is why I went with the Air Lift brand. But you might not have any issues at all..

Airbags work, but I don't like them on expo trucks that are driven way off-road. The fail at the most inconvenient times.

Once the rear bumper is on, it should ride smoother but it will never ride like stock. The set up you have is rated for so much additional weight, so that it holds level.

Since you have the airbags, you could always go with a softer rear coil, for daily driving comfort and then when you load up for a trip or pull a boat, you could pump up your airbags.

Hope this was helpful.

All in all it looks good!

Shocks might have something to do with the ride. Depending on how conversations go with customers re: their preferences, we will offer the Nitrocharger original shocks in certain cases. The nitrocharger sport is a form shock, no doubt about it.

 

[farinvail]

Totally agree the front is too tall. Why not re-install the OEM t-bars? retain factory spring rate for stock front bumper and overall load if it feels too stiff.

 

[TeCKis300]

LX and LC is not the same in terms of how much the A arm move.

I found this comment interesting. Is this due to the AHC suspension on the LX? I'd like to hear more.

 

[saillaw]

Report from the wife is that after the installer loosened the torsion bars the measurements went from 41 to 39 (not sure what the measurements are from, sound like maybe ground to top of fender?) and the ride is much better (less bouncy).

She didn't recall it rubbing anymore, but wasn't sure. I'll probably still install the spacers given that it will probably rub in offroad full compression/full extension without them.

I'm assuming I'll need to retighten the torsion bars once the front bumper/winch/skid plates/rocksliders/rear bumper get installed?

 

[TheFuzz]

It's all relative to need. I'm running an ARB front with re-indexed OEM torsion bars, and they are fine. If the added weight of the sliders and other stuff causes too much loss of height, then throw the other torsion bars back in.