And he cranked up the front torsion bars. Meant torsion.
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2-2.5" AHC Lift Using King Coils & Shock Spacers
- Thread starter DirtDawg
- Start date
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And he cranked up the front torsion bars. Meant torsion.
Update:
I finally was able to run techstream and this was my initial readings:
After reading through information which was very helpful, I adjusted my torsion bars to make the pressure reading close to what Paddo has suggested for the front pressure spec of the LX:
I finally was able to run techstream and this was my initial readings:
After reading through information which was very helpful, I adjusted my torsion bars to make the pressure reading close to what Paddo has suggested for the front pressure spec of the LX:
Hi There, All I did was add the king springs. I have loosened the torsion bars a bit so I now have 6.9 on the front and 5.9 on the rear...pretty close to spec.
So you were running on factory LX470 torsion bars with a factory setting with all that weight on the front bumper and only the rear springs corrected the issue?
Correct.
I added the front bumper ARB Sahara years ago. Then the winch Engo 12k. Then the roof rack (Front Runner). Then the sliders (Cruisin' Offroad). Incrementally, I did adjust the torsion bars, to get as close to spec as I could. When I added my rear bumper (Dissent no-cut) this summer, I promptly added the king springs. This brought my pressures very close to spec (see my previous post). I've subsequently backed off the t-bars to get to 6.9 on the front.
Very happy with the ride currently. It is a lot of weight (way more than +200lbs from stock) but the king springs compensate well. They are much thicker than the factory springs for the LX470.
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Im so glad that worked. I was worried I would have to buy an old used worn out pair of Land Cruiser torsion bars which would probably be too strong, then I’d be forced to do a 1” sensor lift to compensate. You just simply adjusted factory bars. Perfect. Do you still have room to crank more or are they maxed out? What do you think of replacing the torsion bars with new LX470 bars since everyone’s bars are so old. My pressures where high before I added anything.
I still have room to crank my torsion bars further. I wouldn't think that you would need to replace the torsion bars. It is my understanding that they can be "re-indexed" if they are maxed out. I don't imagine they would wear out.
In my situation, king springs worked very well (many thanks to this thread for the confidence to buy them), but I have a fair bit of extra weight. Probably more than 500lbs of additional weight between the sliders, bumpers, winch, roof rack, and tools. King Springs might be too stiff without additional weight (I'll let others chime in here), and they are not a substitute for functioning accumulators.
I'm running the king springs with basically stock weights (removed the OEM third row, but added in a bin with recovery gear ie strap, shackles, compressor, hitch shackle mount, etc). I installed king springs and the AHC lift spacers, then adjusted my rear height to get the AHC pressures at the low end of in-spec, then adjusted the front height to match, then cranked the t-bars to get the front pressures to the low end of the spec.
I was really worried the kings would be too stiff but they're not. I love the cushy ride and was afraid the stiffer springs would screw that up, but they don't at all. They are noticeably stiffer than OEM rear springs, however.
Despite having installed the AHC spacers already, I'm probably going to remove them in the near future. The king springs are sized for OEM length shocks, so the extra inch ish of the spacers leaves them close to falling out at extension, and the control arm hitting the front strut dust shield worries me. Unless you really want max lift with AHC (more than the 1-1.5 inches I wanted), skip the spacers.
I was really worried the kings would be too stiff but they're not. I love the cushy ride and was afraid the stiffer springs would screw that up, but they don't at all. They are noticeably stiffer than OEM rear springs, however.
Despite having installed the AHC spacers already, I'm probably going to remove them in the near future. The king springs are sized for OEM length shocks, so the extra inch ish of the spacers leaves them close to falling out at extension, and the control arm hitting the front strut dust shield worries me. Unless you really want max lift with AHC (more than the 1-1.5 inches I wanted), skip the spacers.
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Hoping to revive a dead thread 
but in response to the last post, even if your only looking for a 1-1.5 lift, wouldn’t the Japan 4x4 spacers help with putting the shocks back in “normal” range? I ask because 1. I have the spacers sitting in the garage. 2. If I lift 2” then I’d still be more in spec than without 3. Back to 1 I have them why not use them in a small lift build ?
but in response to the last post, even if your only looking for a 1-1.5 lift, wouldn’t the Japan 4x4 spacers help with putting the shocks back in “normal” range? I ask because 1. I have the spacers sitting in the garage. 2. If I lift 2” then I’d still be more in spec than without 3. Back to 1 I have them why not use them in a small lift build ?
DirtDawg
"It'd be alot cooler if you did"
- Thread starter
- #270
It will work well with or without the spacers at that lift height. it will put the hydraulic shocks at a lower than stock level, but not enough to hinder any performance. The front spacers are 60mm (2.36”) and the rears are 40mm (1.57”).Hoping to revive a dead thread
i would definitely use them on a 2” lift.
I maxed out my adjustment slots with no modification to brackets, gave me about 3/4” height and brought my pressures back up to spec w/ King Springs. No spacers. I think if I wanted more height and altered the sensor brackets then I would probably add spacers as well.
Hoping to revive a dead thread
1. Yes, the spacers would put the struts into a more normal range, though with the sizes quoted above, the amount of 'help' depends on how much lift you put in (ie 1 inch lift is probably worst to run the spacers, 1.5 or 2, the spacers will help).
2. Also yes, but the the reason I'm not a huge fan is the other issues caused by the spacers...control arm on strut contact and sway bar on strut contact, have to extend brake lines, cv boot contacts spacers at full droop, etc.
3. I still have mine on... I added poly spacers to the rear springs to help keep them seated under full extension. When lifting the truck on a lift, the rear droop is stopped when the sway bars hit the struts... Not sure if I'd ever reach that condition on a trail. I'd say just be aware of the possible problems and you should be fine. Worst I've done so far is dent the strut dust shield - I don't really like that, but I've been too lazy to take them off either. Also, I haven't done any extreme wheeling wince the AHC lift/spacers/king springs, so no idea what my opinion will be once I do.
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Yeah, I forgot that part. Thanks for the reply, and for the thread, this was real helpful I’m sure to a lot of us. After maxing out the slots I did run the rod all the way short without altering it. I wasn’t really looking for much lift, just trying to bring pressures back up after I added the springs. But it does feel a little ‘off’. Like driving in H. I’ll add drawers soon and recheck with more weight and I might lower it back down. Otherwise I’m considering raising it enough to use the spacers and get closer to stock feel.
So, if your pressures are correct in Techstream, you shouldn't really feel much difference from the AHC system. Maybe a little (hard to compare that because it's so subjective), but the amount of spring pressure needed to hold the truck up hasn't changed, just the neutral point in it's travel. The king springs are a stiffer rate (I like OEM is 90 lbs/in and the kings are 140 lbs/in) which would result in the rear feeling stiffer. Did you crank the front sway bars to offset the AHC adjustment?
Yes, if I remember right I think I tightened the bars a little to optimize the baseline pressures and to have a reference point (or maybe I never did this, I might have been too eager to get to the swap). Then swapped tired OEM springs out and put in Kings. I had to back the bars off a half turn after that. I drove a day or so and it probably settled in a little then I raised all three height sensors as much as possible without modifying them. Netted about 3/4” total lift (20.5”/21.25” center of hub to fender). Then tightened up my bars another 6.5 turns. Seemed like a lot!
Pressures after were: 6.8/5.5 (just about ideal I think, maybe a hair low in rear). Acc pressure 10.3. That was 8k miles ago, beginning of October. 14 tics L-H (this must be wrong I should check again). I’m planning to recheck all of this before and after another fluid flush in the next week or two. Sneaking up on 200k so I’m swapping all my fluids and repacking bearings etc. Also I’ll be adding weight this spring so revisiting pressures again.
I rented a Wrangler Sahara a week ago and by comparison my LX feels way more stable and smooth. However, my commute is about 1/2 ‘Not maintained in winter’ or Class VI (not maintained ever) and over the small icy snowbanks (speed bump size) entering these dirt roads, I think the Jeep gobbled them up a little better.
Well, sure sounds like you did it right as far as I understand it anyway!
Thanks for the detailed write up. It helped me install King springs and adjust the sensors to the max (opted not to cut just yet). Ended with 1" lift all around and all pressures in spec. Turns out one of my rear springs was worse than the other and I had 0.5" difference in the rear. All fixed now with the new springs though.
So you stayed with spec pressures with a 1” lift and old factory T bars on the front? Do you have any extra weight in the front like a winch bumper?
Everything was in spec after the new springs, maxed height sensors (without cutting), and cracked TBs. Factory TBs. No weight yet. Had 1/2 tank of gas and ~100 lbs of weight in the rear total.
Cranked TBs 6 full rotations.
6.9 MPa in front
5.7 MPa in back
One final note, my globes are on their last legs. I only got ~4 graduations on AHC test (that was before any mods, but I don't see any reason why it would be different now. Am I wrong? I will test tomorrow. Fingers crossed for 7+...)
Cranked TBs 6 full rotations.
6.9 MPa in front
5.7 MPa in back
One final note, my globes are on their last legs. I only got ~4 graduations on AHC test (that was before any mods, but I don't see any reason why it would be different now. Am I wrong? I will test tomorrow. Fingers crossed for 7+...)
