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1/4's ARRIVED TODAY!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Very Excited. Thanks to BMAN for breaking his back to get these to me. I really appreciate it. I didn't realize how big of a headache it is to remove this things until I received them.

Normally i would have tons of questions, however Matt's thread and all the pictures of his work on the 1/4's have answered most of them.

Question: I understand how these things attach on the inside. But how do I weld the pannels on the outside? Do I place one on top of the other or make them even and weld across the seam?

Background: As you might be able to tell that I have been welding new metal on top of the old metal. Looking at Matt's work, it appears that the two pieces are even and he welded across the seam.

Yes, I am going to clean up these pieces. Thanks to advice from a couple different guys, I now have Zero-Rust and will be paining the inside before they get installed.

Pics.

Dave
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IMG_1597.webp
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Couple more.

Now I have to go feed the cat. He is starting to tear the house apart.

Dave
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I cant believe I havent seen this thread yet! Great work! Cant wait to see it driving down the road!
 
warrior_1515 said:
Question: I understand how these things attach on the inside. But how do I weld the pannels on the outside? Do I place one on top of the other or make them even and weld across the seam?

Background: As you might be able to tell that I have been welding new metal on top of the old metal. Looking at Matt's work, it appears that the two pieces are even and he welded across the seam.



Dave


You can do it either way, butt weld or overlap, up to you. I pretty much butt weld everything, but that works for me, doesn't mean it's the way you should do it, maybe?

If you choose to overlap, there is a right way to do that also. If you go down to an auto body store in your area they have a tool(s) just for this type of overlap welding. It is kinda a vice grip looking thing and they come in different widths on the head, usually from a 1/2" wide to 3" wide. For your quarters I would probably get the 1/2" and the 3" wide one (if you choose to overlap weld. The head of this tool kinda has a step built into it. So when you pinch down on a piece of metal it puts a little Z bend in it.

So, if you were to use this tool........Before you do anything with your new quarters make sure the top edge that is going to be welded is perfectly straight. If it has been cut with a nibbler or shear, this isn't good enough, you may have to mark a line with a yard stick or straight edge and get it absolutely straight. Then, hold your new quarters up against the body where you want them and draw a line with a marker on the body using your new quarter as the guide. Now you would make a line approx. a 1/2" below the line you just drew where you wanted the quarter and then cut at this line.

Now your saying....Why a half inch below??? Because you are now going to use your new crimping tool. If you choose to do it this way the concept will make more sense when you have it in front of you. You now pinch the metal on your first line all the way across the old quarter where your quarter is supposed to be. This tool will bend the metal in approx. 1/16" of an inch and then straight down that remaining 1/2" that you left long. Now you have a little step in the upper metal and a 1/2" backer behind it. So when you set you new quarter in place it will have a 1/2" backer to it, but totally flush with the outside metal.

What you can do is use some sheet metal screws and pre-drill a hole through both piece and screw them together first. This not only will hold the quarter in place, but will also pull the rear tight against the new quarter and keep it straight. Now you can slowly weld the seam.

When all your welding is done and you get to the body work, these exterior welds will need a paper thin coat of filler and have to be board off if you want it perfectly straight.

Hope this helps, Matt
 
Thanks a ton Matt for the info. Certainly didn't expect so much detail.

I know what tool you are talking about. I am assuming this is an example.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=41696

After I posted pics, I went ahead and cut out the passenger side pannel. Left 5/8" below the ridge/lip. Still not completely sure what I am going to do, however, the flange tool sounds like a great idea.

Also, thanks for the tip on sheet metal screws. Never in my wildest imagination thought to do that. Infact I don't even want to say what I was going to do in that situation.
 
Yea, I like the had ones with the wider head, but that would work also, probably work better :)

Probably sheet metal screw every 3" or so, keep in nice and tight. After your done welding the seam go back and spot weld the holes shut also.

Matt
 
WOW! Great work going on there! I'm just glad that the 1/4's are gonna work for ya. And yeah they were a B-I-T-C-H to carve up. I needed to save the corners for my 65 and I prolly killed $20 worth of sawzall blades dicing them up. I'm so stoked to see all these LV's being saved. That poor eyesore in my backyard has got pieces all over the states. Prolly parts of her in 5 rigs so far. I'm deffinately gonna keep my eye on this thread.

Good job bro! The Cruiser Gods are smiling at ya!
 
warrior_1515 said:
More cutting and welding today. I cut a huge hole in the floor and now I am regretting it. I have already fabbed up a piece to fit in place, but during the process of cutting out the floor opened up an area that is full of rust that I didn't know existed. Of course this is a hole that is covered by one of the body mounts. A bit of a challenge and I hope to fix it tomorrow.

While I was at work tonight the UPS guy dropped off my paint. Very excited. 3 of the 4 boxes showed up. Each box is a different part of the paint. With its very own set of instructions. I would love to show pictures of the color, but I lost the swatch and a photo of the green will turn out looking brown and not do it justice.

One more thing, I am very excited about. BMAN shipped the ribbed quarter pannels today. So pumped. Once I get these installed I will finally feel like I am out of the woods with the body work. Then back into the forest with this whole painting thing. For those who have absolutely nothing better to do with their day... I am including the UPS tracking number. Just so you can hold your breath with me.


1ze308a20342355068

Dave


Your floors look about as nice as mine! Cant wait to see them finished!
 
HawkDriver said:
OMG!!!!!

That is commendable. You're Cruiser Karma will be set for life when you finish that projekt.

Great job.

Thanks,

However, I am going to disagree with you on this one. I personally feel that Cruiser Karma goes directly to everyone who have encouraged me and helped me out with this project. Also, those everyone who I have delt with has been extremely kind and honest. That means the world to me.

Dave
 
I should really have the floors finished by now, however I got so excited about the 1/4's that I put a hold on them.

I am almost 100% sure I am doing to right thing here, but I need approval before I make would could be a big error.

Question: Is the gas cap on my truck currently is the correct one for a '65? Not the cap itself, but the round/dome area vs. rectangle.

Background: Did do some research on treeroot's site and still have this question. Also, the way it is now I see signs of not being cut out by the person who did previous repairs.

I guess that I am admitting the lack of LV knowledge but it is better than having regrets.

Pic to describe my question.

Dave
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buckroseu has that gas insert on his 65.

I also have it on my 64. It has been discussed that during instalation, they used whatever was available in their stockpile of bodies from year to year. Some things dont add up. I personally would stick with what you have there.
 
dont drool, but here is mine from a 64 series.
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Yep, that is deffinately nice.

Going to print that pic out and it will be my new shop pinup.

Dave
 
Good to go by? I am almost 110% sure that is the correct gas filler
 
Mikesta said:
Good to go by? I am almost 110% sure that is the correct gas filler

For Sure,

Thanks for posting.

New Goal: Make my 1/4's look as nice as Mikesta's.

Dave
 
Do not use the gas filler pocket from the 1/4's I sent ya. Use the one on your rig, it is correct. I believe the change was made for the 66 and up model year. The 1/4 I sent are from a 67. I couldn't remember what year your rig was and figured that if it was a 66 or 67 you could use the whole thing but your's is not and therefore what I sent is incorrect for you.
 

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