1st FJ40

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I don't know, but I needs me some to plug up.... body holes that is!! (ok that sounded reaaaaly bad, holes in the body of the FJ40)
 
Ok, got fenders and fender skirts off to expose the frame so we can wheel it and POR-15 it easier. I only really broke 2 bolts on the fenders, the passenger side top ones, I guess a tap and die set will be in my future after all. I did happen to screw one thing up during all this, I was taking the bib off and my knuckle slipped and hit the radiator resulting in a hole and subsequent leak of the radiator, so a new one is in my future I guess. Other than that it was pretty straightforward and I am looking forward to doing the rest. Does anyone happen to know what people are using to fill in on the body between the spot welds? I am guessing just body filler, but I may be wrong. Fill me in if ya have a clue, or what you have done.....
 
I had better success with a flap wheel on the frame to get a nice clean surface to paint. If you are POR15'ing it though a wire wheel can leave a bit of rust which POR15 will like more than a perfectly flat, rust free surface.

Are you worrying about body filler to fill in some uneven areas? If so I wouldn't let it bother me...
 
Ah ha, I found what others use, CCOT uses 3M Fast and Firm to fill in between the tack welds on the body. I guess eventually I will be getting some of that hopefully sooner than later.
 
apply it first before you paint. i used it in every corner on mine. its kindof like caulk but for metal.
 
So turkeypen came over last night and we had some fun rust wheeling the front of the 40 and applying POR-15. We got quite a bit acomplished, and it motivated me a bit, so I went on and applied some more today to the DS frame portion until my foam brushes were junked. I also removed the PS seat and fuel tank cause I am itching to remove this tub and get the new one on. When I got into the PS floorpan there was some surface rust that I hit with a wire wheel and some permatex rust encapsulator. It was not attached to the tub anymore, and there are some areas that are pretty eaten up. My question is, if I cut about 2" off of the floorpan and weld in some 16g steel ya think it'd be ok? what we welded in on the DS side is still holding, and actually besides the spot weld on the tub is the only thing holding the tub together. Anyone else have any other ideas other than buying new floor pans?

Pics forthcoming....
 
Pics.....
frame1.webp
frame2.webp
frame3.webp
 
More pics.... i'll be taking more as we are removing the tub tonight!!!! PROGRESS!!!!
floorpan1.webp
floorpan2.webp
 
More pics, this time with tub off.....
tuboff1.webp
tuboff2.webp
tuboff3.webp
 
Dented the hood today, dammit......:mad:
 
Ok, so various sanding and priming of things, figuring out how to fix pin holes left by the sand blasting etc... I did cut the DS rocker panel off up to the floor pan today, I will probbably get some 14g angle steel to brace the back side of the new rocker panel skins, also I will probbably use the same 90 on the floor pan angled down to tack the new tub on to the floor pan. If anyone has any other ideas I would be more than open to them..... Hopefully I can get the fenders smoothed over this week, frame welded into place and be rolling w/o worrying about the spring hangar breaking up thru the frame!!! It is coming along....Pics to come soon....
 
Ok, so I got the rear frame portion, it is in great condition compared to mine, I wish I had the entire frame off of that truck!! I took it to our local trailer/fab shop to have them weld it up and put a scab plate on it, hopefully it'll be back by Thursday and I can get some more work done to that portion. I am going tonight to sand, fill and sand my new fenders some more to get them to acceptable paint condition. Hopefully we can get some welding help, get the tub back on and take it to have it painted in the next few weeks!!!
 
Great news! So, are you going to weld the new rear frame in yourself or are you going to drive the 40 over to the camper shop and have them do it? (Please take a picture if you do drive the Flintstone mobile over there!)

Were you able to get the last body mount off? If not, I have my Recip with new heavy duty metal cutting blades in the back of my FJC.

( put your Call Sign on your signature line. I installed my Ham in the FJC Saturday and monitor Pisgah)

You've got to take more pictures dude . . .
 
Yeah, I finally got it off. It only took like 3hrs of burning and chipping away old rubber. I probbably will have a friend do the welding, he's really good and does it for a living (sort of). I am now on the fenders... geez getting these right is hard. It is weird to try to body fill over the rivets and make it look right. Also when I put the apron on the new fender there is a 1/4" gap between them, so I guess i'll have one of those holey cruisers. It went to Jim Campen's trailer sales on a dolly, so no flintstone car pics David.....sorry. I also am going to have to fill the bottoms of the doors, any input on that???
 
Bottom of the doors . . . hmm, that may take some skill. Why not call my restoration guy in Marshall and see if they can do that for you as they cut out the rust, treat the surrounding metal, and put new metal in. (Hey, you could ask them what they treat the surrounding metal with and we could do the same to the area where the body is going to be joined)

Should be pretty simple as your doors are off, you are not ready for paint yet, and the door-restore can be done while we work on the rest of the body...

Doors take a lot of abuse and unless its done right it might not look right . . . .
 
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