1KZ-TE High EGTs -- Gauge Pics attached

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

The next Prado I come across for cheap is going to get a 3B in it.

I see Pradocruzer looks to be sporting some new rubber. Looks good.


~John
 
Thanks Radd Cruisers. Those tires are long gone though. I have 35" Mtr's on and a re gear in the process. I was going to get into The MTR Kevlar thread but I have only had them for 1000 k's. I do like them. Tons of biting edges and should be wonderful in the snow and wet. I tend not to reccomend tires because no one ever agrees. It's a personal and fashionable choice.

Take care
 
I went up on a hunting trip in the fall and for 10 hours in a friend's BJ42 we pushed as high as 1400F on long slow grades... it's been that way for years apparently (I have turned it down since) and he has not had any problems. I guess it might be true that what you don't know won't hurt you. At least the 3B along with a healthy cooling system is a tough little engine.

As far as the KZs are concerned, I have seen only three so far and two have had the heads done. Quite a costly job.

I don't hold much hope for any of these engines either. Jesse has just bought one :eek: , and I'm a little leery of it - but it has not arrived yet.

I have warned him, but I guess only time will tell. My crystal ball got dropped the other day and my magic wand is out of commission...

~John
:wrench::wrench::wrench::wrench::wrench:

You cant base your info on a few badly maintained JDM rigs
The KZJ90 was 4wd of the year 5 years running here. You dont win that with engines blowing up left right and centre.
Maybe the KZJ70 had a different head,but the 96- models here have won many hearts with 300000+ trouble free klms
 
John,
that is what i (and the gent in Revelstoke did) bought a LJ78 for cheap and swapped a real engine in. i am fast falling in love with mine (although i am very fickle and will be moving on to something else come spring or fall). the HZ and PZ move them but the rpms are high with the 4.9 gears and the R141 tranny
(anyone have a R151 they want to trade for a R141?)

the 3B will always have a soft spot in my heart. tough engines, one of the few i had a hard time killing.

i have been pricing the KZJ81/78 in Japan for the fun of it and they cost almost as much as the HZ/PZ models. WTH?? couple that with the "possibility" of a head dieing then where is the sense?
 
Just curious troopie how did you reduce your fuel on your computer controlled injection pump?? I've been testing a system I came up with to reduce fuel on my 2lte. Seems to work well just dialing it in.
Thanks

Pretty simple actually.
On top of the pump there is a rubber cap with a vacuum type hose connected to nothing. Pull the rubber cap, which reveals a steel cap. Pry the steel cap off and there is your fuel adjustment screw. Screw in for more fuel, screw out for less fuel.
You can't go all out with this adjustment. After a while the engine won't go back to idle after pushing the throttle. It will idle after starting, so don't be fooled.

HTH,
Mark
 
You cant base your info on a few badly maintained JDM rigs
The KZJ90 was 4wd of the year 5 years running here. You dont win that with engines blowing up left right and centre.
Maybe the KZJ70 had a different head,but the 96- models here have won many hearts with 300000+ trouble free klms

I've swapped an 1KZ-T, non electronic, 1995 vintage into an FJ40 last year. That particular engine has been overheated once because of a clogged radiator in the previous Cruiser (FJ55). A few trips later on during off roading a water hose split causing all coolant to be pumped out of the system. We noticed this to late thinking it was the mud steaming of the radiator. After replacing that hose and filling up with coolant again it's still going strong.

1KZ a bad engine? I still don't believe so. Maybe JDM imports are so badly maintaned and maybe driven even worse that those are breaking all the time. Even 2LT's don't crack heads that often over here. Maybe 10% has had problems.

I agree with Rosco. To be 4WD of the year in Oz there has to be something right with this car and engine.

Here are some youtube vids of that FJ40. This was 6 months after the overheating:
YouTube - Landcruiser 40 Mammut 10-2009 part1

YouTube - Landcruiser 40 Mammut 10-2009 part2

Just my two cents.
Mark
 
the HZ and PZ move them but the rpms are high with the 4.9 gears and the R141 tranny
(anyone have a R151 they want to trade for a R141?)
I thought the rpms would be even higher with the R151 than the R141.

Doesn't the R151 have lower ratios than the R141, giving higher rpms at the same speed, as in the opposite of what you want?
 
nope, the R151 has a higher first gear and O/D. the R141 is an off road tranny with the exact same ratios as the coveted H41 (well here anyway).
i scored 2 R141 and tore the R151 apart seeing if i could install the 5th gear with the lower first... no go, so i pitched it. duh.
 
OK, sorry, I was thinking of the RWD R154.

Any idea if the (EDIT: ) 'higher' ratio gears from the R154 can go into the R151, either as a set, of preferably individually?
 
Last edited:
R154
This is a robust 5-speed transmission found in the MKIII Supra Turbo, Toyota Chaser Tourer V, Toyota Mark II Tourer V, Toyota Cresta Tourer V, and Toyota Soarer (turbo) up to 2001.

Ratios:

First Gear: 3.250:1
Second Gear: 1.955:1
Third Gear: 1.310:1
Fourth Gear: 1.00:1
Fifth Gear: 0.753:1

I would like the higher ratio overdrive in my R151.

But don't think I want to go that high across all the gears from the R151...

R151F
A 4WD transmission found in many Toyota trucks.

Ratios:

First Gear: 4.313:1
Second Gear: 2.330:1
Third Gear: 1.436:1
Fourth Gear: 1.00:1
Fifth Gear: 0.838:1
 
Hmmmm , lets see about diesels handling full load all day 13B-Ts , 14B-Ts , Cummins N14 , Cat 3408 gennie, 3404. I can list about 20 more that are designed to run at full load , but burn $$$$$$$$$$.
How do I know this , because I opperate them , maintain them and buy up to 2000 liters a week for them.
NOTE if you can get over 1450F on a stock motor that has not been touched you should go back to gas.
2nd note it would be nice to get 20lbs manifold pressure on the 13-14B-Ts . Then that motor would wake-up, then when the fuel is turned up you could hold the right pedal down steady. Unlike in Borneo Safari where you hear the throttle going (blup-blup----blup-blupp) that is so they are not melting things due to the fuel being turned up and beyond.
 
Stop Hijacking the thread

I don't see a solution in any of the posts. Let me re iterate the question:

If those EGT numbers are high, how can I lower them?
How can a stock 1KZ-TE (i.e. with an Electronic Injection Pump) have high EGTs?

Again, this is a 1KZ-TE engine STOCK (i.e. I haven't tweaked any thing), with ELECTRIC INJECTION PUMP. Are there or is there any adjustment(s) I can do with this ELECTRONIC INJECTION PUMP?

Problem: 1400+ F EGT Temp @ 100 KM/H Full Throttle. 12 PSI Boost (stock).

Specs: 1KZ-TE in a KZJ77, Automatic Transmission, Electronic Throttle, CT12B Turbo and Pro Sport EGT Digital Gauge, Boost Gauge.
 
actually if you reread the one post you will see where the adjustment can be done.

want lower EGTs? get your friggin foot out of it.
"Problem: 1400+ F EGT Temp @ 100 KM/H FULL THROTTLE"
even backing off the throttle a whee bit will drop the EGTs dramaticly.

if you decrease the fuel setting for full throttle operation then at partical throttle you will also loose some performance.
 
then you reread the first post, the factory fuel settings are set for use WITH the intercooler which you could not install. read overfueling which generates heat, this excess heat is removed with the intercooler.
in your case, with your settings an intercooler is needed.

i suspect there is more to this than what you have posted, restricted exhaust system? fuel control not allowing for something missing, a sensor that was removed or not hooked up?
 
If you cant fit an intercooler then a Denco aftercooler can be fitted$$$$$$$$$ or since you like to floor it a water/methanol injection system. Like in the above post from crushers there are many factors.
 
If it has EGR (exhaust gas recycling, recirclitory sp) then your EGTs are supposed to be hot for that clean burn and to cut down on soot . So then 1400f on your down pipe would be more like 1550 to 1600F pre-turbo . I had the preddessesor to your engine the 2lte . It had an EGR system and I had it blanked off. It smoked like a fat bitch but the EGTs were abit lower
 
Thermocouple position

Good point re EGT,s and the location of the thermocouple , allways hotter pre turbo , every diesel bloke I've spoken too allways fits them in the dump pipe.
How many extra kw will be gained by fitting a intercooler to a 1 KZ-TE
Dave
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom