I just ordered a pump off ebay UK. The part number was ME201696. I’m sure there were several part numbers depending on specs. Mine came off a Pajero Shogun 2.8. I paid about $200 after shipping.
1KZ-T.. No longer TE (Mitsu 4m40 pump swap) (3 Viewers)
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Do you have the details on how you did the hybrid of the 2LT and the 1ZK-Te pumps? and will the Auto tranny still function from the factory ecu?
The aftermarket transmission controller you mentioned, do you have a part number or link? I really want to keep the auto tranny functioning as this is my daily driver. KZJ95 Prado with the 1KZ-Te.
Ahh no it was done by a company that specialize in making and modifying pumps. Kaiapoi Repowers in New Zealand. Kaiapoi Repowers |
They have fitted them to auto's and with some fine tuning of the TPS you can get it to run.... I went for total manual control....
Hi Everyone
I am doing research/ searching for a mechanical pump that will fit (without extensive modification) on a 3.0 L Toyota block, like the 1KZ or 1KD engine. I know that the 4M40 pump will fit with minor modification, but it doesn't generate enough pressure for my application. I need enough pressure for a direct injection engine. To my knowledge the 4M40 generates about 15,000 kpa (2175 psi)? I presume the above is a typo? It should be 15,000 kpa? Any ways, does anyone know of a pump that either makes 19,000 kpa (2700 psi) or how I could modify a 1KZ-T or 4M40 pump to make that much pressure? Thank you. Gary
hello. sorry for necro-ing this post. i need some clarification on this quote. Did he move one tooth on the injection pump gear?
Is it possible if i just move one tooth infront of the pump gear? I talked to a guy he said he moved a tooth.
Please reply
Amazing job by OP, but in 2023, you can achieve majority of same tuning benefits by modifying resistor values on the factory (JDM) electronic fuel pump instead (UKDM 4runner with 1KZ was mech pump).
Easiest way is by interrupting the 2 signal cables from the pump top ECU at the ECU, and wiring in a small variable pot in series, giving you the ability to adjust (add resistance) to increase both fuel and timing. Which you can handily mount on the dashboard or centre console.
You need to measure the values of existing resistors first (which can vary), and then ensure you don't adjust beyond a limit of 1.5k *total* resistance for both values (as the resistors in the pump will still be in series). Having said this, increasing fuel doesn't do much without other physical mods, and nearly all gains on standard setup are from increasing timing only. I would advise adding a water and even better EGT temp guage to monitor, but other peopels best results have been around the 1.3k to 1.5k range on the timing resistance. This will also increase NOx emissions (original reason for factory retarding timing), but you can dial back for testing cert purposes. I would oinly increase fuel once you have sorted the restrictive turbo downpipe and remaining breathing.
N.B. ECU pinouts are different for the Auto and Manual trans!
Ran mine like this for 8 years+ now, along with the torque converter lockup switch mod, and it makes a huge difference to help keep cooling down and make decent amount more power.
Easiest way is by interrupting the 2 signal cables from the pump top ECU at the ECU, and wiring in a small variable pot in series, giving you the ability to adjust (add resistance) to increase both fuel and timing. Which you can handily mount on the dashboard or centre console.
You need to measure the values of existing resistors first (which can vary), and then ensure you don't adjust beyond a limit of 1.5k *total* resistance for both values (as the resistors in the pump will still be in series). Having said this, increasing fuel doesn't do much without other physical mods, and nearly all gains on standard setup are from increasing timing only. I would advise adding a water and even better EGT temp guage to monitor, but other peopels best results have been around the 1.3k to 1.5k range on the timing resistance. This will also increase NOx emissions (original reason for factory retarding timing), but you can dial back for testing cert purposes. I would oinly increase fuel once you have sorted the restrictive turbo downpipe and remaining breathing.
N.B. ECU pinouts are different for the Auto and Manual trans!
Ran mine like this for 8 years+ now, along with the torque converter lockup switch mod, and it makes a huge difference to help keep cooling down and make decent amount more power.
