1KZ-T.. No longer TE (Mitsu 4m40 pump swap)
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- #22
US Gallons.
I agree on ballpark, and that's why I wouldn't be upset if fuel efficiency didn't change. It would just be sweet if it improved.
Either, way, this pump has a TON more potential for power, so it's a huge win with it not costing a whole lot.
Currently trying to figure out the tach.
Question: anyone have an opinion on whether a simple Variable Reluctor (the old crank angle sensor) will drive a Dakota Digital SGI-8? I was originally using this to massage the diesel tach signal from my ECU into something the original v6 gas tach could use.. but so far I can't get the SGI-8 to see any kind of pulsed signal from the CAS, whether wired in series with 12v or with both wires from the sensor going to the SGI-8 "input" and "sensor ground".
My understanding is this tach interface box is very tolerant of different shape waveforms and such.. but I can't get it to recognize anything at all out of this sensor.
Would having wired the sensor with 12v in series possibly killed it?
I agree on ballpark, and that's why I wouldn't be upset if fuel efficiency didn't change. It would just be sweet if it improved.
Either, way, this pump has a TON more potential for power, so it's a huge win with it not costing a whole lot.
Currently trying to figure out the tach.
Question: anyone have an opinion on whether a simple Variable Reluctor (the old crank angle sensor) will drive a Dakota Digital SGI-8? I was originally using this to massage the diesel tach signal from my ECU into something the original v6 gas tach could use.. but so far I can't get the SGI-8 to see any kind of pulsed signal from the CAS, whether wired in series with 12v or with both wires from the sensor going to the SGI-8 "input" and "sensor ground".
My understanding is this tach interface box is very tolerant of different shape waveforms and such.. but I can't get it to recognize anything at all out of this sensor.
Would having wired the sensor with 12v in series possibly killed it?
That puts you right among the data from here. Guess you're not selling anything then.
Here the data is mostly from prados. 95's, 120's and 185's (memory fuzzy here, too many model codes) with the occasional hilux thrown in. The hiluxes get the hardest use so the worst fuel econmy, despite being manual and lighter.
If I end up with anything close to that mileage increase I'll be very happy. I always was a little disappointed by the fuel efficiency I could attain.. especially given what was openly touted as common with these engines in this chassis.
And extra power wouldn't hurt either...
Oh yeah you will love the extra power, Im running methanol injection to 34 HP 45 FT LB of torque at the wheels not a bad gain wee ether, only running 20% methanol 80% water
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- #25
Long overdue for an update, so here goes.
The pump is in and running fine. Turns out I had it too advanced at first, and retarding the timing picked up significant power. I've only put one tank through it, and most of that was with the old timing setting, so I can't really say if things improved yet.
Currently I'm trying to figure out how to dial in the timing. Full-advance for a Non-EGR TD Pajero is 1mm @ 7ATDC. That's the setting that was obviously too advanced. I retarded it an unspecified amount (not worth removing the starter just to check, when I'm likely going to be fiddling with the timing over and over soon) and it is running better. The Pajero manual specs 1mm of lift in a range between 7ATDC and 12ATDC, depending on EGR and market the vehicle was originally sold in.
I can't find timing numbers for a 1KZ-T, and they really wouldn't be useful anyway, seeing as those pumps had a 12mm plunger and this one is 11mm.
Should I just move timing back and forth to see what produces the most power? does this need to be done on a dyno? I'm barely able to get EGTs up to 900F with the probe mounted in the EGR blank-off plate installed on Cyl 4 exhaust runner. Seems to me I can add more fuel, but want to get the timing figured out first.
Any advice?
The pump is in and running fine. Turns out I had it too advanced at first, and retarding the timing picked up significant power. I've only put one tank through it, and most of that was with the old timing setting, so I can't really say if things improved yet.
Currently I'm trying to figure out how to dial in the timing. Full-advance for a Non-EGR TD Pajero is 1mm @ 7ATDC. That's the setting that was obviously too advanced. I retarded it an unspecified amount (not worth removing the starter just to check, when I'm likely going to be fiddling with the timing over and over soon) and it is running better. The Pajero manual specs 1mm of lift in a range between 7ATDC and 12ATDC, depending on EGR and market the vehicle was originally sold in.
I can't find timing numbers for a 1KZ-T, and they really wouldn't be useful anyway, seeing as those pumps had a 12mm plunger and this one is 11mm.
Should I just move timing back and forth to see what produces the most power? does this need to be done on a dyno? I'm barely able to get EGTs up to 900F with the probe mounted in the EGR blank-off plate installed on Cyl 4 exhaust runner. Seems to me I can add more fuel, but want to get the timing figured out first.
Any advice?
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Yes, try the different settings yourself and see what works best.
Too far advanced will be noisey and not drive the turbo as well, boost will be delayed.
Too far retarded will be hard to start and throttle response won't be as crisp.
Simply find the best compromise for the driving you do.
looks cool , i had a delica a few vehicles ago ( maybe gettn another soon ) & was looking at the injection pumps in NZ , theres heaps of different versions of this pump , i found it really hard to find the same model .
Awesome to see people trying/doing new things outside the sqaure , great thread ++++
Awesome to see people trying/doing new things outside the sqaure , great thread ++++
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nice work outside of the box,figure out your tac yet . to bad someone could not work magic like this with the auto trannies
I have done a manual pump (hybrid 2LT and 1KZTE) here is NZ.
For the Tacho I used a kit from Jaycar....
Speedo Corrector MkII Kit "Kit Back Catalogue" - Jaycar Electronics
As the sensor in the 2LT pump was different to the 1KZTE.....
I still have the factory ECU which now just drives the Glow plugs....
Also I run the auto and manualised it....
Here is a link to what I have done.
A340 Auto manualising completed | New Zealand 4wd Forums Offroad Express
I tried to have the auto run like factory keeping the TPS sensor but it didn't like it and was very slow to up change gears at hi-way speeds....
So went the manual way... Works great and didn't need to buy some expensive aftermarket controller.
Just need to flick a switch for torque converter lock up....
But its a play truck now not a daily driver so not an issue.
For setting my timing I used the 1KZT setting but it was too advanced, pulled really well but was very noisy, sounded like a petrol motor pinking...
I just set it by ear, backed off the timing until it sounded smooth at idle (when hot)...
Took it for a drive.. And adjusted a little bit more advance so it didn't get the horrible pinking...
Seems to run fine....But still tweaking.. Playing with boost compensator next..
For the Tacho I used a kit from Jaycar....
Speedo Corrector MkII Kit "Kit Back Catalogue" - Jaycar Electronics
As the sensor in the 2LT pump was different to the 1KZTE.....
I still have the factory ECU which now just drives the Glow plugs....
Also I run the auto and manualised it....
Here is a link to what I have done.
A340 Auto manualising completed | New Zealand 4wd Forums Offroad Express
I tried to have the auto run like factory keeping the TPS sensor but it didn't like it and was very slow to up change gears at hi-way speeds....
So went the manual way... Works great and didn't need to buy some expensive aftermarket controller.
Just need to flick a switch for torque converter lock up....
But its a play truck now not a daily driver so not an issue.
For setting my timing I used the 1KZT setting but it was too advanced, pulled really well but was very noisy, sounded like a petrol motor pinking...
I just set it by ear, backed off the timing until it sounded smooth at idle (when hot)...
Took it for a drive.. And adjusted a little bit more advance so it didn't get the horrible pinking...
Seems to run fine....But still tweaking.. Playing with boost compensator next..
Hi Bloc,
Been reading up on your post here im trying to do the same conversion at the moment, mine already has a mech pump on it but suspect its only a 2L pump. no boost comp and is slugish as all hell.
Do you have a part number on the 4m40 pump you could rattle off for me?
davidleenoakes@gmail.com if you can let me know before forum closes that would be rad!
Cheers bud!
Been reading up on your post here im trying to do the same conversion at the moment, mine already has a mech pump on it but suspect its only a 2L pump. no boost comp and is slugish as all hell.
Do you have a part number on the 4m40 pump you could rattle off for me?
davidleenoakes@gmail.com if you can let me know before forum closes that would be rad!
Cheers bud!
I know this thread is a bit old...
Anyone have a part number for the Mitsubishi 4M40 Mechanical Fuel Pump? On the Zexel page there are a few pumps, but I can't figure out which is mechanical.
thanks
RB
Anyone have a part number for the Mitsubishi 4M40 Mechanical Fuel Pump? On the Zexel page there are a few pumps, but I can't figure out which is mechanical.
thanks
RB
Wow that's amazing work mate!!! Top stuff! I was always put off buying a 1kzte motor for my project for the reasons you described! Now you have given me hope with my plans!!! Thanks a million, and thanks for sharing!! You're a legend!!
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- #33
Guess I'm not subscribed to this anymore and didn't realize people were asking questions. Thanks a ton for the support.
I've since sold the truck and can't get the part number anymore. I basically just got on UK ebay and searched for 4m40 pump until I found one that looked mechanical and bought one used.
I've since sold the truck and can't get the part number anymore. I basically just got on UK ebay and searched for 4m40 pump until I found one that looked mechanical and bought one used.
I have been resealing a lot of denso pumps from surfs and prodos,and also zexel pumps from pajeros and delicas.
i just finished putting together a pajero 4M40 pump today,i can get the pump number tomorrow when i get to my shop.
i just finished putting together a pajero 4M40 pump today,i can get the pump number tomorrow when i get to my shop.
M
Mate if the cooling system is doing its job and the injectors are Whitin spec all you'll need to do is keep pre turbo egt's below 700oc . Only reason it cracks heads is if it's running hot . I say check injectors because you can have acceptable water temps and egt's but one cylinder can be running hot due to a dicky injector (localise hot spot) . I've had no overheating issues with the 1kzte running at 170hp and there are plenty with mechanical 12mm pumps running 180-200hp with no issues . Just need a tuner that knows how to set them up
Cheers thanks the mechanic checking the block to see if it's warped
Hi,
Nice thread ... I've followed the same steps to make my 1KZ-TE working with 4M40 pump. The engine did not start !! ImI thinking that I need to chandc the firein order (the sequence of fuel pipes) .
Could someone help me with this please.
Nice thread ... I've followed the same steps to make my 1KZ-TE working with 4M40 pump. The engine did not start !! ImI thinking that I need to chandc the firein order (the sequence of fuel pipes) .
Could someone help me with this please.
Hello
do you have the part number from the Zexel pump what i need to buy to make this swap?
Best regards
do you have the part number from the Zexel pump what i need to buy to make this swap?
Best regards
Hello
does the part number ME202455 fit?
does the part number ME202455 fit?