1HZ tuning

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What I mean "full boost" is 18 and above.
You don't boost a 1HZ to 18psi if you want longevity.

Standard 1HZ boost in the various aftermarket turbo kits is about 9psi.
 
my 1hz had been force fed 25-30 psi for 2 years now and its never had 1 problem.

I guess im just real lucky lol
 
my 1hz had been force fed 25-30 psi for 2 years now and its never had 1 problem.

I guess im just real lucky lol
How many km's have you done in those 2 years?
 
K's are relative to wheel rotations..

I like to talk about rpm :)

When driven, 1000-5000 rpm

I know what your getting at, i too would not want this setup in a daily driver.

But still, you have to give it to the 1HZ shes pretty hardy.
 
Here is the thread that problem facing with 1HZ with Turbo





Over heating problems cruiser 79 4.2 D
SKOLLIE
Rookie



Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Kimberley South Africa
Posts: 8


Over heating problems cruiser 79 4.2 D
Hi there guys I hope there is some one that could help me with my cruiser. It is a 2003 model 4.2 D with a turbo fitted with air cooler. It also got a AC , I ve got a problem firtsly the bakkie is heavy on the juice ( between 4 and 5 ) and in summer our temp gets fearly hot ( 35 - 40) when I drive for long distances at speed 130 km with the AC on the temp gage rises not in the red but not where it suppose to be . Then al I do is decreace my speed and the gadge returns to its normal position. My friend got the same cruiser same year but with out the turbo he gets 8 with his cruiser and he drives at speeds of 140 km/h and the heat gadge stays in normal position . If replced the following to solve the problem ,tested the head , replaced head gasket , replaced injectors replaced water cooler with air cooler on turbo and serfaced the diesel pump. I am realy struggeling and there seems to be know one that could help me.:mad:
 
Here is the thread that problem facing with 1HZ with Turbo
And your point is?

He doesn't even have an aftermarket temp gauge on his truck to determine if it is really overheating.

As it is, it isn't hitting red on the factory gauge.
 
And your point is?

He doesn't even have an aftermarket temp gauge on his truck to determine if it is really overheating.

As it is, it isn't hitting red on the factory gauge.


Oh come on!

This shows that his engine is overheating. We don't determine "hitting red" then is overheating. Once is out of the normal range then is overheating. If without turbo, definitely is at normal temperature.
 
please read below carefully


when I drive for long distances at speed 130 km with the AC on the temp gage rises not in the red but not where it suppose to be . Then al I do is decreace my speed and the gadge returns to its normal position. My friend got the same cruiser same year but with out the turbo he gets 8 with his cruiser and he drives at speeds of 140 km/h and the heat gadge stays in normal position .
 
Wong, you are so wrong on many accounts.
fuel economy is NOT better with the HDT than the 1HZ+T.
the torque produced by turboing the 1HZ is higher than the HDT
the horsepower produced is higher as well.
here in Canada a used HDT (with unknown history) is anywhere from $6000 to $8500.
a turbo kit will run you between $2800 and $3500.

you match the turbo to your driving style, smaller turbo for off road use only, larger turbo for mainly highway driving.

your posting of the "over heating" has nothing to do with the turbo itself. what is the boost being produced? what is the fuel setting since the install? what is the exhaust size? factory gauges have been proven to be glorified idiot lights and an aftermarket gauge is STRONGLY recommended when installing a turbo. what is his EGTs running at?

seriously, if you don't like the idea of turboing a IDI engine, that is fine and your opinion. my opinion is turboing a IDI is fine as long as you keep the boost to 14 psi max, EGTs below 1200F preturbo.

till you come up with facts to support your fear then it is best to keep your fear mongering to yourself.
 
Oh come on!

This shows that his engine is overheating. We don't determine "hitting red" then is overheating. Once is out of the normal range then is overheating. If without turbo, definitely is at normal temperature.
Without an acurate temperature gauge, he has absolutely no idea what temperatures it is reaching, and whether it is overheating or not, and neither do you.

Without a pyrometer, he has absolutely no idea what temps are coming out of the engine, and whether his fuel is tuned properly for the turbo, and neither do you.

I think everyone here knows that you don't agree with turboing a 1HZ, and that everyone should convert to a 1HD-T instead, you carry on about it enough, but some people don't want to go to that trouble or expense, and choose to turbo their 1HZ instead.

Give it up already.
 
Last edited:
please read below carefully


when I drive for long distances at speed 130 km with the AC on the temp gage rises not in the red but not where it suppose to be . Then al I do is decreace my speed and the gadge returns to its normal position. My friend got the same cruiser same year but with out the turbo he gets 8 with his cruiser and he drives at speeds of 140 km/h and the heat gadge stays in normal position .
Doesn't matter how many times you post it, it isn't going to change what it says, it is not going into the red, he does not have any sort of acurate reading as to what temperature it is reaching, and he does not have a pyrometer, which would show excessive EGT's which are the real danger in a turbo 1HZ.
 
Gday guys if any of you rockcrawlers are still looking at this forum. There is an ausie mob called Bullet in Melbourne manufacturing super charger kits for the 1HZ. This will give you your lower rev higher torque/power range you were asking about. They also do an integrated inter cooler if required.
 
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