1hz timing belt/tensioner/spring + water pump renewal on a very old (like mine!) 1hz (1 Viewer)

[sunrk]

at 600 k km I did the timing belt/tensioner and water pump replacement myself. I don't have any fancy/special tools.

I'm aware the factory spec is to renew the t-belt and tensioner/spring setup ever 100 k km's but some people claim it's actually 150 k km's (which is close to 100 k miles aka 160 k km's).

Now the motor is over 691 k km's so only 9 k km's away from when it should be due for the next round of fun. I recall last time that getting the tensioner spring on was a joyful time.

Are the toyota vs gates t-belts equivalent in quality? I used a genuine water pump last time and would do so again. As I've only done this job once before myself, I don't remember if I changed or did anything else. I think a couple of seals can be replaced? I don't have or know of any way to 'lock' the camshaft so not sure if that's necessary once the motor is in the right rotational position to set up the timing marks.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Toyota changed the timing belt maintenance interval with the 1hdfte.
I believe there was a minor change in the belt design.

None of the parts needed are very expensive. Certainly not expensive enough to push your luck on them, particularly the sub-$20 tensioner spring.

I used a Gates belt on a previous vehicle with no issue concerns on quality.

in terms of getting the spring on/off, the right tool, and the right approach makes it simple enough. It's an awkward spot no doubt

A hook pick, or a tee handled tool can help

 

[ATL Cruiser]

We always use OEM belts. I'm sure Gates would be fine, but I have seen aftermarket belts be off by as half tooth in length, especially on newer Volkswagens. It makes setting the timing a nightmare.

The price difference is minimal, and the labor is extensive. It doesn't make sense to save a few dollars in this area.

Also, 700k is AMAZING!!!

 

[sunrk]

700 k km not miles. 691.5 k km currently as of yesterday.

 

[erics]

I used a brake spring pliers tool (google it) and it makes the task super easy (other than potential interference from radiator, etc)

 

[sodafeld1]

I have found gates ok as far as fan belts, but the german optibelts to be really excellent , but not sure if they make a hz timing belt.

But I have found a tremendous difference in the quality of rubber used for say rocker cover rubber, the ome is far superior, chalk and cheese. Certainly wasting time and energy not getting toyota ome.

I agree, a particular job every 100-150k is worth spending the extra 20-50 -200 bucks for sure.

 

[sunrk]

Doing the job finally. Up to fitting the new spring. I remember this was the bit I got frustrated with when I did the job last in 2016. Using all genuine parts (w/pump, t-stat, t-belt, tensioner, spring).

The new spring is quite a bit away from the pin it has to clip over but if I can find a hook tool it might be non-annoying. After 30 min of frustration with incorrect tools I found an appropriate hex hey - a 5 mm one, and it took no time at all as the spring nicely slipped down the shaft as the hex key pulled the spring out.

Rotated engine twice - timing marks stay lined up so that bit's now done.

Now it's just re-assembly of stuff I took out and should be good to go once the coolant is re-filled (as I replaced t-stat and radiator hoses so most of old coolant is gone). I forgot to hose-flush the heater core though so might take off t-stat again to flush it or just run with water, let it circulate, cool off and dump then fill with proper coolant.

 

[sodafeld1]

wow, i think i may have a rival in taking awhile to get things done ! life can get in the way

 

[sunrk]

The longest job I haven't done is fix the AC and replace what I think is a dud air box assy on the 80 - it's been like that since I got it in 2011.

 

[sunrk]

Job's done. finished off the re-assembly, filled the coolant system, double-checked I hadn't missed anything, and the motor started fine. I've run it up to temp to verity the t-stat is working and now letting it cool off.

One thing I did notice is the same problem it's had for some time in that it seems to not run on all the injectors at initial start-up from cold, but after a while it's idling nice at about 750 rpm. Replacing the injectors is another job still on the list just like the valve shims.