Plus the HD does not handle bad fuel as well as the HZ. The injectors are more finicky on the direct injection.
1HZ rebuild (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 60/40GUY
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Ive seen too many fail to consider taking an internally modified 1HZ far from home in a foreign country with no parts back up.
Understood, however, I am not considering extreme modifications just a bore and maybe a port & polish on the head... it does not seem to have an aftermarket cam for an all motor set up
I'm in the process of rebuilding a 1HZ and am installing the timing gears. The shop that refurbished the head (pressure tested and magnafluxed/new valve guides and seals/lapped valves/new cam/shims) and installed the pistons, crank and rods in the block, installed the head to the block. The cam pulley #1 (Camshaft) lines up with the TDC mark on the case. Neither the Crank pully nor the timing pully #2 (injection pump) do. Incidentally, the injection pump was completely refurbished as well.
When installing the main crank timing gear, idler and pump timing gear, the timing marks on said gears are meshed according to the FSM - 00 on the crank gear to the 0 on the idler and 11 on the pump gear to the 1 on the idler.
Knowing that this is an interference engine, I have removed the camshaft to permit rotation of the crank.
My question is this: do I rotate the crank until the belt pully #2 lines up with the TDC mark on the case. Will the Crank pully also line up or will the marks all match only when the crank is in a specific position (ie TDC for piston #1)?
Maybe I'm overthinking it?
Thanks.
When installing the main crank timing gear, idler and pump timing gear, the timing marks on said gears are meshed according to the FSM - 00 on the crank gear to the 0 on the idler and 11 on the pump gear to the 1 on the idler.
Knowing that this is an interference engine, I have removed the camshaft to permit rotation of the crank.
My question is this: do I rotate the crank until the belt pully #2 lines up with the TDC mark on the case. Will the Crank pully also line up or will the marks all match only when the crank is in a specific position (ie TDC for piston #1)?
Maybe I'm overthinking it?
Thanks.
Get out your manual and follow it meticulously. I've done it twice but I wouldn't be doing it without the FSM in front of me. I read the manual until I fully understood what I was doing.
If you look at page EM10 of the FSM, the picture shows all three (crank pully/belt pully #1/belt pully #2) lining up to the TDC marks. My issue is that if the gears are meshed as per the manual (EM 50), then the crank pully and belt pully #2 do not both line up to the TDC marks. This is my problem and the manual has no guidance for this - at least I haven't found one.
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Just curious what is this info based on? I've have a few direct and indirect injectors apart and I don't see how one is more "finicky" than another.
Maybe it would have been better to just say that direct injected engines don't handle bad fuel as well as indirect injected engines. @roma042987 apparently the dual stage injectors do not handle contaminated fuel as well as the simpler ID injectors of the HZ. Not sure if it is a wear issue or a running issue but IIRC it is more the latter that worries those in third world countries.
I haven't heard of 1HD T injectors being more problematic than a 1HZ on bad fuel. The tolerance in a diesel fuel injector is so fine , that any contamination will cause problems.
And once contamination is causing problems with injectors, it has most likely damaged the injector pump.
Exactly! and pumps aren't THAT much different between the two. If anything most of the factory turbo engines are slightly lower compression which would theoretically mean they would fair better with bad fuel. Also DI engines are much easier to start so that would also aid in the matter.
My EM10 shows a page on the troubleshooter
This bit? Im not sure where you are having a problem. If you do it like the book says, it all works out in the end.
Have you looked at EM 23?
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I had watched the video you had posted earlier. It is helpful. I have done it as the book says, but it hasn't worked out so far. I will keep you posted as to the issue when I figure it out.
Do you have a pic of where you are with assembly?
@roscoFJ73 and @roma042987 sorry for the confusion, I didn't exactly mean the contamination is dirt or debris.... That will kill any injector or pump. You are both right there 100%
I was more meaning differences in viscosities of the fuel. It's one reason people looked for the IDI engines like the HZ and 3B over the DI engines (13BT and 1HDT variants) for WVO conversions. As you said, it could also be compression that helps here, but from what I've read over the years, the IDIs handled different fuel quality/viscosity with less issue. Dirt on the other hand is an equal opportunity deal breaker.
I was more meaning differences in viscosities of the fuel. It's one reason people looked for the IDI engines like the HZ and 3B over the DI engines (13BT and 1HDT variants) for WVO conversions. As you said, it could also be compression that helps here, but from what I've read over the years, the IDIs handled different fuel quality/viscosity with less issue. Dirt on the other hand is an equal opportunity deal breaker.
So might have changed my mind on the all motor thing I am considering doing the 1HZ-T did you have any recommendations on forged rods & pistons? This will be a winter project in 2023 no rush too :
