1HZ intermittent starting issue (1 Viewer)

[PBcuiser]

Just finished my 1hz conversion in an FJ62 and loving it but I am having an intermittent starting issue.

About 40% of the time when I turn the key all I get is a "click", but not the slightest attempt of the starter to spin. Sometimes on the second try it starts right up. More often I have to jump it.

I have measured the battery voltage when this is happening and it is 12.5-12.6V.

I initially thought it was a grounding issue but after improving my grounds the issue remains.

In my mind the three possibly culprits are:

- Junk battery - despite it being a brand new interstate group 27
- Junk starter - possible bc its Chinese clone from amazon
- overloading factoring solenoid wiring

I am going to get the battery load tested to start but any other ideas??

 

[Squash]

Make certain that the battery posts are clean and tight.
If you are losing dash lights during the start up then definitely a ground issue.
I have a cheap master switch on my 1HZ 75 and it sometimes has to be really tight for cold starts.

 

[PBcuiser]

Make certain that the battery posts are clean and tight.
If you are losing dash lights during the start up then definitely a ground issue.
I have a cheap master switch on my 1HZ 75 and it sometimes has to be really tight for cold starts.

thanks, yeah the clock does black out during starts so maybe that is still my issue.
Posts and terminals on battery are brand new and clean

 

[KiwiDingo]

Take a look at your starter contacts.

 

[db3]

I had the same problem and had to add an auxiliary relay in the starter circuit on my 60. The 1HZ starter draws around 18 amps, which is too much for the stock ignition. Use the existing wire to the starter solenoid to pilot a Bosch relay, and then a separate circuit directly from the battery through the relay contacts to pickup the starter solenoid.

 

[PBcuiser]

did this with a spare Toyota "main relay" I had. Ill test in the morning but I measured 12.6v at the relay output compared to 12.4V I was getting from the stock wiring.

Thanks for all the suggestions!

 

[mudgudgeon]

Is your voyage being measured when under load?
Like while the key is turned to start?

 

[db3]

did this with a spare Toyota "main relay" I had. Ill test in the morning but I measured 12.6v at the relay output compared to 12.4V I was getting from the stock wiring.

Thanks for all the suggestions!

You need to check the voltage at the starter solenoid when you are actually trying to start and having a no start problem. The voltage there will be the battery voltage minus the sum of all voltage losses in the entire circuit, and if excessive, the starter solenoid will not pick up. Regardless, you really don't what to have 18+ amps going though your ignition switch; it won't last very long.

 

[PBcuiser]

measurements were taken with the solenoid lead disconnected from the starter with the key in the start position

 

[mudgudgeon]

measurements were taken with the solenoid lead disconnected from the starter with the key in the start position

You need to measure voltage with a decent load on the system, such as starter, or watch the multimeter when someone flicks highbeam lights on.

If voltage drops below 12 volt under load, you probably have a dead cell in the battery.

Try tapping the solenoid with a hammer or bar a few times. Sometimes the solenoids jam, and need to be rattled loose. A few sharp taps can do the trick

Another thing you can do is short out the positive starter solenoid terminal to ground with an old screw driver. See if that activates the starter.

 

[PBcuiser]

My battery is brand new so I would be disappointed if it is already failing but Ill do that test. so far looks like adding a relay had resolved the starting issue.

 

[Pilbara]

My battery is brand new so I would be disappointed if it is already failing but Ill do that test. so far looks like adding a relay had resolved the starting issue.

Check to see if starter is genuine, if not make sure it has the two water drains fitted, if not then probably brushes frozen in the holders(ive had this issue and fixed it until i got an OEM starter), easy fix to free them up if rust is not too heavy, even the so called top quality aftermarket starters have this problem. OEM starters are best or drill and fit the oem rubber grommets in the chinese starter in the same place or theyll sit with an inch of water in them.

 

[roma042987]

I've chased this same issue. It's not the starter, battery, or ground issue. The relay may fix it, but you probably need to add a second battery like all the factory 1HZ cruisers had. There is insufficient current to fully mesh the flywheel/starter teeth. Sounds far fetched I know. Get one of those small jump packs and hook it up when you experience the symptom.... I bet it will start every time.

 

[Pilbara]

I've chased this same issue. It's not the starter, battery, or ground issue. The relay may fix it, but you probably need to add a second battery like all the factory 1HZ cruisers had. There is insufficient current to fully mesh the flywheel/starter teeth. Sounds far fetched I know. Get one of those small jump packs and hook it up when you experience the symptom.... I bet it will start every time.

Agree that will work if one set of brushes is frozen in holders or one solenoid contact is worn/arced as they do and then the two battery current will crank it but it gets super hot at the commutator if brushes are frozen and can destoy the starter in short order, in 30 years of 1HZ's ive never had to use two batteries to start unless one was on its way out, ive always had two batteries, one for engel fridge and to back up main if it's down on charge by jumping the aftermarket battery isolator solenoid. We dont have twin battery 1HZ Cruisers here from factory in Australia so thats a new one on me. Hope the OP gets it sorted.

 

[mudgudgeon]

should be absolutely no need for two batteries for starting a healthy 1hz.
Most only ever have one battery from the factory.

Even in below freezing conditions, worst I've had to do was turn the key a few times to cycle glow plugs a few times, then it always fired

 

[roma042987]

So what say you if this occurs with two brand new genuine starters? Jumping the solenoid also doesn't start it.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Have you bench tested the starter? Ie put 12 volts to it direct from a battery?

have you got 12volt starters? Haven't ordered 24 volt starters?

 

[KwaTeebs]

Have you bench tested the starter? Ie put 12 volts to it direct from a battery?

have you got 12volt starters? Haven't ordered 24 volt starters?

This is a good suggestion. I had a similar issue. Intermittent issue that seemed like it was a weak battery.

It turned out the starter wouldnt turn with a battery connected directly to the starter itself. There was a loose connecting wire inside the starter motor that solved the issue