1HZ injection pump adjustment

[lshobie]

Hi Guys,

I have a 1HZ with about 4300 hard hours on it, the engine runs great, starts great, doesnt burn oil, doesnt blow excessive smoke (only a little black under hard acceleration). I've changed the BEB as a matter of course.

The only thing is that when the engine is warm it sounds like a diesel, it is clackety, not clickety like a valve clickety. Wayne mentioned that it is probably a fuel knock and that the injection pump needs an adjustment.

Anyone here have any experience adjusting the injection pump on a 1HZ? Any pointers?

 

[Dougal]

Getting your injectors (not the pump) pressure reset should help it.

I'll let you know as my engine was particularly noisey at idle (it's DI and Isuzu though), I sent my injectors off to be looked at, the verdict was 3/4 of them are shot.
About 10 years ago the injectors were done and the engine was amazingly quiet at idle.

With injector pressures set properly, it'll be burning a fine spray rather than spontaneously igniting a whole shot of diesel.

 

[lshobie]

If it were a problem with the injectors wouldnt it be blowing black smoke?

 

[roscoFJ73]

If it were a problem with the injectors wouldnt it be blowing black smoke?

I had my injectors done not long ago. I had no serious smoke black but the diesel shop said the springs were weak so I guess the black smoke comes from worn injector nozzle tips.
They said the nozzles were not too bad but looked like they had done 100000klms.
(The engine had done 200000 klms so I assume they were done by the PO at 100000klms)

If your going to play around with the pump,you need to start with good injectors.
Maybe a valve adjustment too. The adjustment didnt make any difference to mine but others swear it makes them run smoother

If its done 4200 hours it would have to convert to 200000 klms +

 

[lshobie]

Good point, and I am going to do a compression test today to see where it is at - although I think it will be just fine.

I'll make an appt with the diesel injection shop in town. ONe thing after the other eh!

Has anyone here done a valve adjustment on thier 1HZ? Damn shims.

 

[Ron R]

Has anyone here done a valve adjustment on thier 1HZ? Damn shims.

Yes I do. Regularly.
First time was a pain in the ***.
But I made notes of the shims going in. So I know what shim (thincknes ) is in which position.
Next time I check valves and I find one out of limits (very rare!!) it's just a matter of finding the value (tight or excess), see from my notes what size of shim is in there and find the value for the new shim.
And don't forget to make a note of the new shim going in.
I have a collection of old shims that were exchanged before and most of the time there is one that has the right size and if not, I just get a new one. (they are darn expensive!! so don't throw away the old ones !!!)
This way you don't have to juggle around with taken out shims before you can get the necessary replacements. It's just a matter of calculations and comparing to what I already have.

It then can be done within an hour.

 

[Dougal]

If it were a problem with the injectors wouldnt it be blowing black smoke?

Mine wasn't blowing any smoke.
But the exhaust ports were slightly wet with diesel.

 

[lshobie]

Ron R, did you make your own tool for compression the shims? Pic?

 

[Ron R]

Ron R, did you make your own tool for compression the shims? Pic?

No....., even worse.....I borrow it from my dealer.
Though I've not bought my cruiser there, most parts I need I get through them.
They are very friendly and I can borrow special tools most of the time I need them.

But I must add to this that I've been looking into buying this tool myself, just to not have to borrow it.
It's not that expensive and available at the parts-store.
It's a fairly simple tool, a kind of hook that has a tapered shape and is wedged between camshaft and shim-cup.
If necessary you could make it by your own, but I think the time to make it and make it work is more valuable then the cost to buy it.

 

[matt 105]

Here is a pic.

 

[lshobie]

ok, had the injectors rebuilt, I have a digital tiny tach that read exactly 600 rpm at warn idle before the injector rebuild - now it reads 648 rpm. All teh injector guy did was chcek them and all they needed was some shims to build the spring tension back to spec.

So I adjusted the idle back to 600 exactly and the engine noise is louder - I think it is what wayne suggested - fuel knock.

So, will do a valve adjustment on monday and then adjust the pump to try to get rid of the fuel knock next week.


Thanks for the pic of that tool.

 

[prado t]

purging the injectors will also get arid of th fuel knock if that doesnt work set the pump back starting at 1 degree retard
aaron

 

[lshobie]

By purging the injectors do you mean cracking the lines at the injector?

 

[lshobie]

ok, so I rebuilt the injectors and got a 50 rpm increase in revs on the tach - also got a slightly louder fuel knock sound.

So today I went out and loosened the injection pump, the alighnment mark on the pump was about a degree below the alignment mark on the timing cover thingy. So, I brought the pump back to align the marks - but I had a feeling it wasn't going to make the sound better as I believe that is advancing the pump timing. Tightened it all up and took it for a drive - no change in sound, still rattly.

Then I loosened it up again and moved it 1 degree past its original point (away from the engine) - the fuel knock is all but gone, just a slight sound - but sounds the way a 1HZ should sound!

So, I'll drive it for a few days and see how it fairs out, if it stays the same I might turn it slightly away once more and see if the sound goes completely.

Next it the compression check for the heck of it. This engine is still strong, runs great and now that the rattly sound is gone I am feeling more confident in it.

Turbo install this august/sept

 

[prado t]

I am glad that worked for you .
aaron kuit

 

[lshobie]

Compression results:

Cyl 1 595
2 605
3 600
4 600
5 605
6 595

So, that's looking pretty good, this engine may have been rebuilt at some point. Can an engine have that good a pressure after 4300 hours - being driven the s*** out of it?

 

[lshobie]

Matt, how much does that SST cost in OZ?

 

[matt 105]

Gday
I paid $60 over 10 years ago - might have been closer to 15 years.
Price now - I wouldnt have a clue - sorry.
Once youve got it - youve got it, and youve got to have it.
The shims retail for around $16, but if your a good customer -$10
Untouched motors usually have all the same size shims from the factory.
Set your motor closer to the bigger gap tollerance of clearance- they generally close up over time, so they dont get a rattle when there out of spec.
A hard life is not neccisarily a bad thing for the trusty 1HZzzz
Good luck with it

Matt

 

[RHINO]

ishobie,, glad its working out for you, shooting in the dark is fun and a bit scary at the same time.
is the pic in the avatar the cruiser you have? i thought they were a japan only model, but maybe i heard wrong? thats prolly the only cruiser i would replace my FJ55 with.

 

[crushers]

Compression results:

Cyl 1 595
2 605
3 600
4 600
5 605
6 595

So, that's looking pretty good, this engine may have been rebuilt at some point. Can an engine have that good a pressure after 4300 hours - being driven the s*** out of it?

excellent compression, was that a wet test or dry?
if the engine was maintained and driven hard then yes thsi is still a possiblity. if the engine is poorly maintained then it can need a rebuild very early on...

being an ex-mine truck who knows the history...

i still suspect a fuel knock...