1HZ freeze plug block heater? (1 Viewer)

[VTCruiser]

Id really like to get a block heater installed this winter and I think a freeze plug style unit would be best for my application. Has anyone fitted one of these to a 1HZ? The 3B plug is apparently 35mm, and according to toyoDIY there is a 35mm freeze plug on the left side of the 1HZ at the #4 cyl. Think it would work? Anyone tried it?

 

[ForealBoreal]

people with jdms don't usually have block heaters stock in their trucks.
i know most people put in a lower rad heater.

though lshobie has a 1HZ with a factory block heater. hes the only guy i have heard that has put on in.
i will be installing a lower rad heater next week, i hear they work good.

 

[Ratpuke]

I've got block heaters in my 3BII and my HZ (plus a Webasto and battery warmers on the latter...no such thing as overkill when you live in NE BC where we get weeks of -45C not including the windchill). VT - I can take some pics for you if you're interested in seeing the set up.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

DO NOT put a block heater in the lower rad hose on a 1HZ or 1HDT... that's the Outlet from the radiator to the engine but there is a Thermostat in the way. The engine will not get hot using that method. It will cook the rad hose, cause the block heater to melt into a puddle of molten aluminum and then leave you stranded at the side of the road after you drive away with no cooling system...

Install another type of coolant/block heater.


~JOhn

 

[crushers]

disagree,
been doing this for years with the PZ,HZ engines with good results.

i have yet to see one melt into a puddle of aluminum or cook a rad hose, not saying it can't happen just saying i have yet to see this degree of concern.

block heaters are crap.

 

[VTCruiser]

I have looked into the lower rad hose option but in my application the hose is not ideal for the convection to occur, and I'd rather not destroy my basically brand-new rad hose trying!

I've got block heaters in my 3BII and my HZ (plus a Webasto and battery warmers on the latter...no such thing as overkill when you live in NE BC where we get weeks of -45C not including the windchill). VT - I can take some pics for you if you're interested in seeing the set up.

That'd be great, thanks! Which freeze plug on the HZ did you use? Is it a 3B heater or aftermarket?

 

[UpsideDown]

disagree,
been doing this for years with the PZ,HZ engines with good results.

i have yet to see one melt into a puddle of aluminum or cook a rad hose, not saying it can't happen just saying i have yet to see this degree of concern.

block heaters are crap.

Have a look at the water flow diagram for the 1HDT, 1HZ, and 1PZ and you'll see what I'm talking about. Trust me, you're very lucky that you haven't had serious problems.

My customer who has a 1PZ can attest to how stupid it is to locate a heater in the lower rad hose on these engines.

(note: I didn't put it there, I just fixed the damage).

~John

 

[crushers]

interesting, i just pulled the hose on the PZ for the swap into the LJ, not brittle, not "fat", and the heater had no sign of melting...this is after 3 Calgary winters and 1 ontario winter.
you sure he did not leave it pluged in for a rediculious period of time? i have found an hour to be more than enough for -30C...

 

[canucksafari]

DO NOT put a block heater in the lower rad hose on a 1HZ or 1HDT... that's the Outlet from the radiator to the engine but there is a Thermostat in the way. The engine will not get hot using that method. It will cook the rad hose, cause the block heater to melt into a puddle of molten aluminum and then leave you stranded at the side of the road after you drive away with no cooling system...

Install another type of coolant/block heater.


~JOhn

John, I tried the block heater on my TD4.2. It worked for only about a month. Dropping it before I isntalled it might have had something to do with that. It is now a fancy frost plug. I then installed the lower rad hose heater. The cooling system design is esssentially the same with the thermostat at the top of this hose. It has now been 3 years with regular usage in the interior and Abby (when it is cold enough). I too was wondering if the thermostat would open or if it would just boil in the lower rad hose. The thermostat does in fact open up and a convection current develop. When I am at a motel in the interior, I just leave it plugged in all night. At home, it goes on a timer with a 3 hour pre-heat. There is nothing like hot air and a quick smokeless start when it is -20C or colder.

 

[canucksafari]

My customer who has a 1PZ can attest to how stupid it is to locate a heater in the lower rad hose on these engines.

(note: I didn't put it there, I just fixed the damage).

~John

It is also crucial to mount it in the lower 1/3 of the rad hose so a convection current will be able to start.

 

[canucksafari]

I have looked into the lower rad hose option but in my application the hose is not ideal for the convection to occur, and I'd rather not destroy my basically brand-new rad hose trying!

A lower rad hose heater may mean that you don't ever have to buy an OEM hose again. Once you install the lower rad hose heater, you can likely use generic rad hose sections as the lower rad hose heater provides two pivot points.

 

[crushers]

hey, if someone isn't comfortable with doing something. that is his right.
what is good for John G and others isn't (or maybe won't) be good for others.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Are we talking a Safari / Patrol TD42 engine or are we talking about a 4.2L 1HZ / 1HDT? They are quite different engines.

The temperature sensitive part of the thermostat on the 1PZ / 1HZ / 1HDT is in the block, not in the rad hose.

The TD42 has the thermostat at the top of the engine... which is the more standard way of doing things.


~John

 

[canucksafari]

Are we talking a Safari / Patrol TD42 engine or are we talking about a 4.2L 1HZ / 1HDT? They are quite different engines.

The temperature sensitive part of the thermostat on the 1PZ / 1HZ / 1HDT is in the block, not in the rad hose.

The TD42 has the thermostat at the top of the engine... which is the more standard way of doing things.

~John

I thought that on the 1HZ and 1HD-T the thermo is still on the high end. John, I admit i don't have anywhere the experience you have. The way i see it, once the temp on the thermostat reaches a certain point it should open. When that opens, your heat source needs to be placed in a location which will encourage a convection current to begin. Perhaps the design of the 1HD_t and the 1HZ engine's cooling system will not allow this to happen?

But I agree with Wayne <did I actually say that? LOL>. In the end, people need to go with what they believe is right for them. I know people down south here which only use diesel fired circulating heaters. I couldn't justify it, but ....

 

[Ratpuke]

That'd be great, thanks! Which freeze plug on the HZ did you use? Is it a 3B heater or aftermarket?

Well, pulled the beast into the shop tonight, removed a skid plate and had a peek. Looks like Outback installed the heater into the lower rad hose. I have yet to use it as I've been using the webasto when it's really cold and have been pretty amazed at how well the HZ fires up at low temperatures. If and when I use it, I'll let you know if it fries up.

 

[crushers]

yep, typical $35 lower rad hose heater...

 

[finderscuba]

Well, pulled the beast into the shop tonight, removed a skid plate and had a peek. Looks like Outback installed the heater into the lower rad hose. I have yet to use it as I've been using the webasto when it's really cold and have been pretty amazed at how well the HZ fires up at low temperatures. If and when I use it, I'll let you know if it fries up.

I'd like to see how long it will take for that tie-wrap to melt.

I had intermittent connection problems with mine last winter. The plug doesn't seem to make good contact. I eventually smacked it with a mallet to properly seat it. The heater worked every time after that. But I doubt that plastic tie-wrap will stand up to the heat of the housing in your picture.

 

[lshobie]

DO NOT put a block heater in the lower rad hose on a 1HZ or 1HDT... that's the Outlet from the radiator to the engine but there is a Thermostat in the way. The engine will not get hot using that method. It will cook the rad hose, cause the block heater to melt into a puddle of molten aluminum and then leave you stranded at the side of the road after you drive away with no cooling system...

Install another type of coolant/block heater.


~JOhn

I had glow plug issues last year and had my 1HZ plugged in most of the winter. I have a low rad hose heater and block heater as well, sometimes I use both sometimes I use one to see which is better - both start the truck just as well.

The low rad hose heater works great and I have never had a problem, I suspect the heater you mentioned was installed improperly and the clamps weren't tight enough, that would cause a leak, once the fluid is gone then the heater would melt - not vica versa.

A person would have to be near retarded to drive away in a truck that had a hose melt out and drop a few gallons of fluid all over the place - I'd assume there would be some smoke/smell and a huge puddle everywhere - not to mention a temp gauge pinned.

Louis

 

[Ratpuke]

I'd like to see how long it will take for that tie-wrap to melt.

I had intermittent connection problems with mine last winter. The plug doesn't seem to make good contact. I eventually smacked it with a mallet to properly seat it. The heater worked every time after that. But I doubt that plastic tie-wrap will stand up to the heat of the housing in your picture.

Yes, thought about that when I saw the zip tie. If the winter gets really long up here in the far north and I find myself going stir crazy and in need of some excitement I'll plug it in and watch what happens.