1HZ engine number -- what info can I find using it? (2 Viewers)

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Nostradamus

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Sep 6, 2013
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Location
Seattle, WA
Hello everyone.

I used the 'ol search feature but couldn't come up with anything.

I recently acquired a 1HZ to do a swap into my 85 JF60, and was wondering what I can figure out about the engine's history based on the number stamped on the back of the block on the left side (driver's side here in the states). The number is 04xx545, which is too short to get any hits when I put it into the VIN / chassis field on toyodiy.com. I get an error message that it's too short of a number.

Anyone have any suggestions? It's a 12V engine according to the guy I got if from - he said he acquired it from a diesel mechanic in Wyoming or someplace. It has a short exhaust pipe coming off the exhaust manifold that indicates to me that it was a mine truck engine or some other non-road vehicle.

It has an auto bell housing and flex plate on it (I'll be going with the H55 that's in my rig already [w different input shaft]). Don't know if it was originally on it, but I know the PO was planning a swap into an 80, which would explain why he had it.



Here are a few pics of the engine.

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The short exhaust looks fairly standard. Its unlikely a mine truck would be auto although it could have been added later. The chained oil filler cap indicates it probably had a fleet owner.
The part numbers on the fuel pumps suggests it is 99 or later engine but new pumps will fit old engines. It probably had a high altitude compensator on it.
Double sheave 12v alternators usually mean it came from a landcruiser (not a bus etc) and its had airconditioning. I don't think mine engines would have had aircon, but these engines can be made up from bits and pieces from other engines.
 
Thanks for the feedback. Very helpful indeed. I have a 1HDT turbo for this project, and will need to scare up a boost compensator for it.

The AC bracket looks newer than the rest of the accessory brackets, so I'm going to guess it was added later.

Really appreciate your thoughts on this.
 
Hang on to the bellhousing and drive plate. The autos are rare commodities on 1HZ as most of them are only on JDM landcruisers. Someone will buy them. I think a 60 series auto would fit on there with some 1HZ auto parts
 
I have a 1HDT turbo for this project, and will need to scare up a boost compensator for it

I would get it running in the cruiser without the turbo and add it later when everything is perfect.
 
Thanks for the thoughts on the turbo addition. I was wondering if it made more sense to just get it in and running to baseline it, then add a turbo.
 
I would get it running in the cruiser without the turbo and add it later when everything is perfect.

Agreed.

I have a 1HDT turbo for this project, and will need to scare up a boost compensator for it.

I have recently fitted a 1HD-FTE turbo to a 1HZ, I think it's a far better option.

Some info here

Rolling the dice - slow moving turbo HZJ105 project

There's a few options for boost a compensator, it doesn't necessarily need to come from a denso pump.
Some Zexel and Bosch parts will be interchangeable.
 
Thanks for the thoughts on the turbo addition. I was wondering if it made more sense to just get it in and running to baseline it, then add a turbo.

Over the years on MUD I have seen a few owners throw a s*** load of money into turboed engines that don't work like they should. They end up spending months/years trying to figure out whether its the turbo side or the fuel side or something else.
 
Do you know about changing the timing belt ,spring and idler?
 
Do you know about changing the timing belt ,spring and idler?
Yeah. I am going to to that and replace all the gaskets / seals while this thing is on a stand. Got my timing belt and water pump parts from Georg at Valley Hybrids.

I do have a stripped glow plug hole question that I'll post shortly with some pics to get some collective wisdom from you gurus.
 
Good to know - I was unaware of the Zexel and Bosch info. Thank you.

It opens up your options, particularly if you have a pick and pull wrecker near you.
You can look for any 1990's early 2000's VW golf, passat, Toyota hilux (tacoma?) 4runner, Mitsubishi, isuzu etc etc turbo diesel that uses mechanical injection with a VE style IP. 3,4,6 cylinder didn't matter, the main housings are the same.
There are some differences between different manufacturers, so do some homework.
 
It opens up your options, particularly if you have a pick and pull wrecker near you.
You can look for any 1990's early 2000's VW golf, passat, Toyota hilux (tacoma?) 4runner, Mitsubishi, isuzu etc etc turbo diesel that uses mechanical injection with a VE style IP. 3,4,6 cylinder didn't matter, the main housings are the same.
There are some differences between different manufacturers, so do some homework.
Thanks for the idea. I live in the US, so don't have access to a ton of passenger vehicle diesels via the pick & pull, but there are a fair number of diesel VW Jettas and Passats here, and there are a bunch of Isuzu NPR trucks with the 4 clyl turbo diesels. Lemme do some homework
 
I am going to to that and replace all the gaskets / seals while this thing is on a stand

If there was seepage I would change them, but after 12 years and 3x 1HZ , none of mine have ever leaked serious oil. I had a little dribble from the valve cover where it straddles the camshaft, probably my fault as I was the last one to touch it.
On my current 1HZ, it had some slight weepage from the rear main after a 1300 klm drive home from purchase. However it turned out because the landcruiser had only done 4000klms in the last 4 years, the seal must have stiffened up. After 2000klms it stopped altogether and has not leaked again after 5 years (last month).
If it was me , I would put a OEM rear mains seal in and leave the others till they need doing. None of them are hard to get to in the engine bay.
These are the unleakiest engines ever made.

P/S pumps tend to get some weepage from underneath where a metal pipe joins the pump. Very easy job.
 

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