1HDT/WTA intercooler

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Locked79 said:
Heat exchanger - 24x12x1
Intercooler - 2x type 16
Turbo - Gturbo BB1
Thermo - single 9" (no room)
Boost - 22psi (for now)
Coolant - about 3 litres

I'll try to get some pics up
Click to expand...

OK, now this is perfect.

Do you have a chip?? If not, I can send you one with 5 maps from 150 to 220kW at wheels to suit ~ 30psi from the BB1 along with my stage 1 injectors.

Anyway, it will fly. Your intercooler looks the goods to me.

I took that HDJ79 ute I mentioned a while back that has 213kW at wheels (tuned to ~ 200 at the moment) for a drive yesterday with a guy that races the Fink Desert race. He Gtech'd it with a grass start to 7.2 0-100 and 15.7 1/4 mile. It could have knocked a second off easy with bitumen start. 1st gear was just silly. Anyway, he said the best he's got out of a V8 Ute is in the 17 second range - we only tried once. He simply could not believe how quick this ute is. It was really nice to see someone with years of experience shaking their head in disbelief!

For those in Perth - I have the ute for the rest of the month if anyone wants a look.
 
Bugger, I'm still at work and wont get home until the Feb 1

:bounce::bounce::bounce::bounce::bounce::bounce::bounce::bounce:

You didn't want to post any photos you may have taken in your thread on here.
 
I might pop around Graeme, I've stumbled across your new abode ;)
 
Today was another absolute scorcher. I made a quick vid to show heat soak from a HOT engine and left to sit for a while. The turbo cools down, the hot air rises up through the intake and heats the water. Thats why the post numbers are higher than the pre numbers. Even with a crappy heat exchanger, it pulls down pretty quick. And today was a good test day.

34*c was predicted
The upto time live temps said it was 36*c
My thermometer said it was 38*c

Anyone who live in brissy would have said 40 for sure. It was that hot.

I decided to just film for 10 minutes to just show the numbers. I was at my parents house. Drove down a few streets, and waited at a few red lights. Then a few minutes on the highway.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AouvGOw9_Lk

With a better heat exchanger it will pull down twice as fast, and reduce temps. This was just the intercooler straight to the heat exchanger (3 litres worth). Cant wait until the new heat exchanger goes on (once I decide which 1 im going with). Then I will be happy.

Yes,
My pressure gauge doesnt work.
My indicators flash fast
My speedo is out 10% (35's)
and my thumb got in the way there :).

Even on a frigin hot day like today, it has a 40-50% efficency rating at idle. And a 75% up top at speed. 12psi at 100kph, barely registers at 200*c egt's.
 
Water temp pretty cold from start ;)
 
South said:
Water temp pretty cold from start ;)
Click to expand...

Is this based on your vast knowledge of WTA systems :D

It is what it is. After I posted to Bernie I'd make a vid of what he was refering too. I was just about to leave anyway, so thought I may as well do it now. 5 minute interval from posting to driving. :steer:

Ive had it on for a while now and know what the numbers are and should be. Sitting for 10, 20 ,30 1 hour, 3 hours etc. When you leave it for long enough. Both gauges read ambient. It was hot but not 58*c.
 
Last edited:
Sorry, I was referring to your engine water temp, the engine is warm...
 
Ah ok. I get you now. I don't think it is. It's somewhere between 0 and running temp. And that's the engine water temp. Not the water in the intercooler temp. The truck sat for about 40 minutes (still in the sun, couldn't touch the bonnet). But it's much of a muchness. The pull down is the same regardless.
 
Thanks for the Video,
So good to see your own W2A system working and posting results even with your under sized heat exchanger.
One of those things is like me people buy an off the shelf intercooler because it's been designed by "engineers" to do a job but does anyone really test it, not me anyway, it's just expected to work.
Might try the same test across my safari A2A system, seeing the temps at low speed will be interesting
 
I used to have my IC radiator in front of the OEM rad but re-routed to below


4976285826_dd2bde1314.jpg

4969009748_170f19ef27.jpg

It is between the frame rails and up high but does not block airflow to radiator.
Also, the coolest air possible now that it is not heat soaking from the motor bay.

Any tricks to bleeding the system of air? That is the most difficult part as it works great but I have issues with bleeding air fully
thanks for any tips and tricks for this!
 
Yes, my next version will have a very easy speed bleed. I've even now changed to clear hose, just so you can see the bubbles in the line.

I was emptying and filling mine alot at the start. The check results and tunes etc. I just pulled a hose and used a garden hose to get most of the air out. Then bled the rest. Once it's bled propperly, its fine. Every once in a while pop the cap and top up.
 
58bernie said:
Thanks for the Video,
So good to see your own W2A system working and posting results even with your under sized heat exchanger.
One of those things is like me people buy an off the shelf intercooler because it's been designed by "engineers" to do a job but does anyone really test it, not me anyway, it's just expected to work.
Might try the same test across my safari A2A system, seeing the temps at low speed will be interesting
Click to expand...



Alot of people like to argue all the time. I've seen SOME results for the safari before. But don't have all the answers. It was on a dyno while I was waiting. Pre and post, egt's afr's etc. At idle it did nothing at all until the dyno fan was turned on. Started to increase the fan speed. Didn't start working until 60kph with max efficency at 80kph.


Apart from the different designs. There's really not much in it between ATA and WTA efficency wise. Dispite what alot of people say. For my money, ill stuck with the WTA. It's had a heap of advantages, and suits diesels perfectly.
 
TheBigBoy said:
Yes, my next version will have a very easy speed bleed. I've even now changed to clear hose, just so you can see the bubbles in the line.

I was emptying and filling mine alot at the start. The check results and tunes etc. I just pulled a hose and used a garden hose to get most of the air out. Then bled the rest. Once it's bled propperly, its fine. Every once in a while pop the cap and top up.
Click to expand...

Thanks,
I've disconnected the system and pumped coolant thru a open jug- pumps through fine.
It seems that last bit of air in the IC is tough to get at.

Since the hoses are mounted mid-way up the IC, there seems to be a air pocket trapped in the top quarter.
I tapped a schraeder valve which helps immensely to bleed out but it seems I can't get that last bit. You can see my IC has it in the ps upper corner.

System works but I suspect I'm loosing efficency because of this...

The clear tube is a good idea.

I saw an idea floated about dual radiators. I did this but I believe it reduced efficiency because of the added complex hose path and I believe it reduced the speed of the coolant, so it was not moving through the system to be effective as a shorter system with a single, larger, well-placed radiator.

additionally, I have 2 electric fans that are temperature triggered to aid in cooling the rad at slow speed (with switch override).
I feel this simpler system works better and will be more reliable in the future.
jmo
 
I'm probably going to test the results of adding a second radiator because I have one sitting here! :D It seemed to work out to about 75% efficiency, as does the one in the vehicle, so I'm curious to test and see how they add up towards the theoretical combined efficiency of ~93%. Added to my intercooler which also tested at 75% my system efficiency should theoretically be approaching 70%.

I guess one day I should just switch over to the 24x12x1 rad.

I've never seen any pre and post IC temperatures for the Safari air-air system, although I haven't searched very hard...
 
I applaud all of you guys efforts, but to say that both (WTA and ATA) are equal is not true. If I put this much effort into my intercooler and did as much muchness as you all I could probably get into the 80s for efficiency for constant duty and not just for burn outs. Still though the WTA piping and all those extra radiators sure does look neat. I have seen ATA front mounts into the low 90s for efficiency, now that is kewl.
 
Do you not think a WTA can ever make it into the 90's? All I've done is bolt a stock WTA (off the shelf system) and measure it. From the start the heat exchanger has been terrible.
 
Ahh boys, don't get your panties in all bunched up. By all means keep building your neato thingys. In my defence I have only math on my side, but dont let that get in your way. Adam is making the best out of his system. I enjoy his posts because he simply is doing the math to determine what is needed for what efficiency he desires. A 93% radiator is doable but will be huge, but is what is needed for these systems. If he can nail down a 70% ATW system up the coquihalla that would be something, and I know that is what he is designing it for. For those who don't know, that is a big hill.

Show me the theoretical math behind a 90% WTA system and what would be needed for an exchanger and radiator to do that. I think that is a large goal. WTA has a short duty cycle. That is the inherent weakness of this system. You will not overcome it with positive thinking alone.
 
FirstToy said:
the only advantage of A2A is the simplicity of parts. Short of blocking the radiator with a huge A2A IC, which I didn't want to do, the W2A benefits made me pull the trigger on this system.l
Click to expand...

Yes ATA has less parts and is generally more simple in its design. Im sad to day, but instead of blocking your radiator with an ATA intercooler, you will be doing it with a second radiator for your WTA cooler. I guess you could do a top mount radiator. There was enough room up there for my ATA intercooler, so why not a radiator?
 
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