AussieHJCruza
Supporting Vendor
- Joined
- Jul 8, 2013
- Threads
- 61
- Messages
- 2,626
- Location
- New South Wales, Australia
- Website
- www.completecruisers.com.au
Soot in intake isn't just a 1HDFT/FTE engine thing, it's an emissions diesel thing. Firstly, run a catch can to keep the oil out of it, and secondly if you can, throw the EGR in the bin and blank it off.
Second what's already been said about the various iterations:
Early 1HDT - piston crown cracks, especially if pushed hard with performance mods, plus the BEB problem
Later 1HDT - piston issues sorted. Still some BEB issues. 3 hours labour and a $60 set of bearings, it's cheap insurance.
1HD-FT - a bit of a dog in factory trim but easy fix with a bit of a play with the boost compensator. No internal issues, just keep on top of timing belt etc. As these are interference engines and not forgiving. Lose the emissions gear and install a decent turbo and fun times.
1HD-FTE - the best Diesel engine Toyota ever made. Similar comments to FT
These engines appreciate easy breathing (like any I guess) but the factory dump and exhaust is very restrictive. 3" from the turbo back gives you boost at least 300 rpm earlier.
Most people don't maintain the fuel system like they should. IMHO injectors should be looked at every 100,000 km and the pump at 300,000. A lot of times it won't seem to have anything wrong but from my experience you're leaving efficiency on the table by neglecting this. (Specifically mechanical engines rather than EFI) Seems the first part of the pump to wear is the advance mechanism, so as the RPMs increase the timing doesn't increase proportionally. This puts EGT through the roof and makes it very lazy.
On the FTE pumps there is a common fault when they have a manual trans behind where they will hold revs during a gear shift, quite annoying. Seems to be a calibration issue in (I think, @Indestructible 47 will confirm as this is one of his specialties) the spill control valve. The tolerance is incredibly tight and seems many rebuilders either don't know how or can't be bothered getting it right.
Sorry for the jumbled rave, hopefully makes some sort of sense
Second what's already been said about the various iterations:
Early 1HDT - piston crown cracks, especially if pushed hard with performance mods, plus the BEB problem
Later 1HDT - piston issues sorted. Still some BEB issues. 3 hours labour and a $60 set of bearings, it's cheap insurance.
1HD-FT - a bit of a dog in factory trim but easy fix with a bit of a play with the boost compensator. No internal issues, just keep on top of timing belt etc. As these are interference engines and not forgiving. Lose the emissions gear and install a decent turbo and fun times.
1HD-FTE - the best Diesel engine Toyota ever made. Similar comments to FT
These engines appreciate easy breathing (like any I guess) but the factory dump and exhaust is very restrictive. 3" from the turbo back gives you boost at least 300 rpm earlier.
Most people don't maintain the fuel system like they should. IMHO injectors should be looked at every 100,000 km and the pump at 300,000. A lot of times it won't seem to have anything wrong but from my experience you're leaving efficiency on the table by neglecting this. (Specifically mechanical engines rather than EFI) Seems the first part of the pump to wear is the advance mechanism, so as the RPMs increase the timing doesn't increase proportionally. This puts EGT through the roof and makes it very lazy.
On the FTE pumps there is a common fault when they have a manual trans behind where they will hold revs during a gear shift, quite annoying. Seems to be a calibration issue in (I think, @Indestructible 47 will confirm as this is one of his specialties) the spill control valve. The tolerance is incredibly tight and seems many rebuilders either don't know how or can't be bothered getting it right.
Sorry for the jumbled rave, hopefully makes some sort of sense
Last edited: