1HD-T balancer pulley with A/C (1 Viewer)

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Annapolis MD USA
Ok guys. On my last road trip after a few hours of driving my truck had a weird knock. I know my injectors are due so I thought that was it. Well if you saw my post in the fuel tuning thread you know I'm currently driving 1,000 miles home with a bad turbo. Well we pulled into a hotel tonight and my truck was knocking like crazy. I took a look and it seems like my A/C pulley is letting go. I checked it because other threads had said that could be a source of a knock. Correct me if I'm wrong but I think the A/C pulley is separate from the main one.

Anyone have any part number or sources for a replacement. I have an offroad festival in two weeks and I would like to have my truck in good shape for that. I have 5 hours to drive tomorrow and I may just have to loose A/c.


Edit: I think I found it. First part number was wrong because it didn't have the rubber dampener in it. A/C Crankshaft Pulley 1HZ 1HDT [D 13407-17010] - $153.99 : CruiserParts.net, Toyota Landcruiser Parts
 
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Think you have the right one. Yes the ac pulley is separate and bolts onto the main pulley. The rubber has a habit of delaminating and separating from the center section (happened to mine too).

Might be a good idea to remove the ac pulley all together until you get a replacement. If the rubber fails completely while on the highway, well, picture the steel pulley turning at 3000 rpm, detaching and flying about your engine bay.

Edit: I ordered my replacement pulley (and most of my oem JDM parts) from partsouq.com shipping is extremely fast and prices are good.
 
ETA on your replacement turbo?

If your turbo compressor is contacting the housing, which your video indicates that it is, I'll give you something sobering to think about. . .

I had a turbo die in my HDJ81 the morning I was due to leave on a week long wheeling trip with a bunch of mates.
Shaft play let the compressor touch the housing while under boost.
End result was the engine swallowed chunks of compressor shrapnel.
It took a full strip down to clean out beads of burnt aluminium from the cylinders and valves (the compressor shrapnel melted in the 45 seconds it took me to get off the road and shut it down), remove 1/2 cubed chunks of turbo from cylinders, remove all valves and check for straightness, remove beads of aluminium that had been pounded into valve seats, fit new pistons due to damage from aforementioned chunks, fit a full new set of pistons, rings, bearings, seals, gaskets etc, replacement turbo, plus several months off the road.

A turbo failure cost me about $3k for a backyard rebuild, replacement parts etc, a trip with the boys, and countless hours in the shed fixing it.
Worst thing for me, I had already built up a replacement turbo, just hadn't taken the time to swap it over, figured I'd be ok for a bit longer.

Ultimately, it killed that cruiser for me. Shortly after fixing it all, I had an IP failure which was the final straw. I already had another cruiser when this happened and I parted it out.
 
Thanks guys. My pla.ln was to remove it in the morning to prevent any further damage. I woke up and took off the A/C belt and was able to just pull the pulley off as it had completely separated. My knocking is gone.

I appreciate the warnings @mudgudgeon and I'm aware of the risk I am taking. I guess the difference seems to be that mine boosts fine and I don't think it's making contact while running. When I turn the car off and listen to it I can hear the turbo spool down and right before it stops you can hear it make contact ever so slightly and make some ping ping sounds. I have been trying to keep the boost low but I will be going through the mountains on the way home today. I have 5 more hours of driving
 
I bet you're glad to have that behind you. I'd be a complete stressball.
 

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